Seventy years ago, the crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia) was practically unknown north of the Southern states, and a narrow strip of land in the southern part of those states bordered the “Old South.” If it was grown farther north, it was a “tub” plant or in a greenhouse.
Today the crape myrtle is found growing and blooming out of doors south (or even a little north) of a diagonal line drawn from Wichita, Kansas, to Boston, Massachusetts. This does not mean that it is always hardy in the usually accepted sense of that term.
But the fact that it blooms only on the wood of the current year’s growth enables it to freeze to the ground and then grow up in the spring to a height of 6’ to 8’ feet and bloom gloriously from early August until freezing weather in October or November.
Freezing Not Harmful
My ‘watermelon red’ crape myrtle was still in bloom last fall until the second week of November. To be sure, the blooms were not as gorgeous as in August and September, and many buds remained that never opened.
But it was a demonstration that this wonderful shrub does not succumb to the first breath of winter, for the temperatures in this region several times during the fall hovered at or below the freezing point. The location gives slight, if any, protection to my specimen.
Location, however, can be of considerable benefit in preventing freezing of the crape myrtle if this is thought to be advisable.
When you recall that the crape myrtle blooms only on the current year’s wood and that a good supply of such wood is necessary if an abundant bloom is to be had, it seems just as well to let your shrub freeze to the ground.
Indeed, a sheltered location will frequently keep your crape myrtle from freezing, but you are no better off, for to get a sufficient supply of the current year’s wood, you will have to cut it back severely.
Just a short time ago, two friends of mine whose crape myrtles had reached a height of 10’ to 15’ feet told me that since new growth was made only at the top— and not very much there—they were cutting their shrubs back to the ground to secure more and prettier blooms.
Location Determines Crape Myrtle’s Hardiness
Location of another sort has much to do with crape myrtle’s hardiness. For instance, even the roots are inclined to freeze in Chicago, but in the same latitude a little farther east, crape is probably because the Chicago area gets land winds while the other region’s winds have blown over water.
It is not so much the distance north that causes the freezing of the crape myrtle as it is other climatic features—winds, elevation, amount of humidity, and even local topographical characteristics.
Crape Myrtle’s Variety Of Blooms
The crape myrtle can be had in various colors. Different varieties will produce blooms ranging from lavender to purple, pink in various shades, and even white. I prefer pink, which is often advertised as ‘watermelon red.’
It is not only showy but still delicate, and I am inclined to think it is a little harder. However, in my estimation, it is also a better bloomer than most varieties because the full blossom is larger and more uniform in shape and color.
It has no cultural whims and does well in any good garden soil. It likes a little more water while it is blooming but shows no tendency to wilt, even in the driest summers.
Its Blooms Are Delicate
It will respond better if it is protected from strong winds. It likes the sun but does not need it all day. An eastern exposure is, therefore, excellent.
Suppose one cares to go to the trouble. In that case, it can be set in a small tub and taken to the basement before severe cold weather, but the only thing gained by this extra work is a little longer blooming season since to get the proper amount of current growth wood, it must be cut back when it is again set outdoors in the spring.
I have never found it profitable to try to keep the whole plant from freezing, but after cutting the shrub almost to the ground, I heap a mound of dirt over it about three feet in diameter at the base and 12” or 14” inches high at the center.
Although I have never had to resort to it, if a prediction of 15° or 20° degrees Fahrenheit below zero were made, I think I would cover this mound of earth with some mulch—-leaves, cornstalks, or any other material that would help to conserve ground warmth.
With Great Care
Like everything else that is worthwhile, crape myrtle takes some effort on the gardener’s part if it is going to do its best for you.
But what other shrub can you name that will bloom this far north from early August until it freezes, needs no spraying and little watering, and yet continues repeating its beautiful flowering for years?
You will recall, I hope, that most of our flowering shrubs in this area—lilac, beauty bush, forsythia, japonica, and various flowering trees bloom for short periods only—and, in many cases, require a great deal of care.
Since you know all this to be accurate, why not try a crape myrtle? If you do this, I am sure you will want more.
44659 by George Marshall