Have you ever considered what a lucky thing it is that one of our favorite flowers – the rose – grows as a vine and a bush? That may be one of the reasons for its popularity!
If lilies, dahlias, gladiolus, and iris grew in climbing, rambler, and pillar forms like the rose, competition for the first place in gardeners’ affections might be even keener than it is.
There are many ways to use rose climbers in our gardens. Almost every property has room – perhaps even a downright need – for at least one more rose of the vine type.
With proper care, environment and pruning, many locations will be enhanced by a rose that climbs or rambles.
Three Classes Of Roses
In most rose catalogs, the large group of roses generally referred to as “Climbers” is divided into three classes:
- Climbers
- Ramblers
- Pillars
Considerable confusion results in an attempt to decide which type many belong.
Even though we were to decide on this matter, we would find that there are wide borderline varieties that might be placed in more than one class.
Many climbers will ramble if grown so that the canes come in contact with the soil, for they will then take root, start new plants, and walk over a large area.
A rose classified as a pillar may become rampant if grown in rich soil, and a favorable climate and would justify the title “Climber” or “Rambler.” Similarly, a variety ordinarily noted for its vigor could become a pillar rose through proper environment and pruning.
Names are also misleading. I would classify Paul’s Scarlet Climber as a low pillar, Crimson Rambler as a strong pillar, and American Pillar as one of our most vigorous climbers. But why worry about the technicalities of”classification?
Usually, that is relatively unimportant to the average gardener. However, practically all the leading catalogs state clearly whether a variety is significant- or small-flowering and whether it is vigorous.
These two facts are essential as they answer the all-important problems of pruning and location.
Pruning Pointers
Generally speaking, the types that bear tiny blossoms in clusters, whose growth is rather long and whip-like, should be pruned in the summer after they bloom.
Roses of this group are biennial, as the canes are of little value after producing one crop of flowers and so should be removed. New shoots arise each year from the crown, but new branches rarely break from the tops of old ones.
The roses with large blossoms should be pruned less vigorously and only enough to remove dead wood and unnecessary canes. These types produce their blooms on spurs that arise from old wood, so one will readily realize that removing all old wood will prevent the production of flowers.
It is occasionally advisable to cut out an old cane that has become too woody and possibly diseased to permit a vigorous new one to take its place. This gradual renewal of the plant will extend its life and make it easier to train.
Removing Faded Flowers
Contrary to popular belief, removing spent blossoms and seed hips wastes time. In fact, strange as it may seem, some varieties will bloom better if these are not taken off, and the attractive hips of types such as Silver Moon and Mme. Gregoire Staechelin and others add significantly to the beauty of the plant.
In our garden, we remove the old blooms from one variety only – Climbing American Beauty. Unfortunately, this rose has the bad habit of holding its petals after they have faded and rarely produces seed hips.
Therefore, the appearance is greatly improved if the old blossoms are snipped off.
Pruning For A Purpose
There are many pet theories as to the best method of pruning climbers.
But if the preceding procedure is followed and the plant is trimmed to fit the space it occupies and to serve its intended purpose, the results should be entirely satisfactory.
On the other hand, too severe pruning of any rose is not recommended, and if the plant is lopped unmercifully, the results are likely to be somewhat melancholy.
Under average growing conditions, a climber, rambler, or pillar rose is only at its best in the third season after planting.
However, when they do reach their prime, the glory of these roses more than compensates for the wait, although the season of bloom for most of them is comparatively short.
A few so-called everblooming varieties and others repeat sparingly in the fall, but the vast majority bloom only once.
Early Hybrids
Practically all these roses are descended from either Rosa multiflora or R. wichuraiana. Few, if any, were introduced before 1893, when the old Crimson Rambler (a multiflora hybrid) was put into commerce in England under the name The Engineer.
The late M. H. Horvath is credited with introducing the first R. wichuraiana when, as an employee of W. A. Maeda of South Orange, N. J., he produced Manda’s Triumph, South Orange Perfection, Evergreen Gem, and others in 1899.
Although these roses bloomed only once, they possessed a natural beauty of form and foliage that gave an excellent decorative effect and served a purpose for which no other rose was suited to that Lilac.
The demand for these new roses was great. Since both R. multiflora and R. wichuraiana were easy subjects for hybridization, breeders began to bend every effort to produce new varieties.
Some of these earlier hybrids are still popular, but most have been forgotten, and newer varieties have taken their place.
In these more unique varieties, we find our most significant difficulty in classification as they combine not only the multiflora and wichuraiana habits but also those of other roses.
In the earlier introductions, we were optimistic that a wichuraiana hybrid would be an ideal ground cover as one parent is naturally a creeping rose.
If such a rose were planted on a steep embankment, it would not only enhance its beauty of it but also would serve the practical purpose of preventing erosion.
The multiflora hybrids were not as amenable to this use, for they tended to produce stiff and heavy canes rather than pliable ones. Today there are many exceptions to this rule.
Uses For Roses
Dorothy Perkins is a typical wichuraiana rambler and is the best-known of all roses in this class.
It is ideal as a ground cover and, like all other varieties having thin, flexible canes, can be trained as a weeping standard if attached to a post.
Most wanderers are not at their best when planted against a wall, as the foliage is likely to become vermin-ridden and mildewed.
A free circulation of air through and around the plant is beneficial. When used as a ground cover, the canes of Dorothy Perkins, and similar roses, will take root wherever they come in contact with the soil and soon form a dense mat.
Dr. W. Van Fleet (also a wichuraiana hybrid) is a typical climber. Roses of this type, if given adequate support, grow higher and higher each year because the new wood starts from or near the top of the old. Unfortunately, this habit of growth and stiffness of the canes makes them unadaptable for ground cover.
They are thought of primarily for their capacity to clamber over a trellis or up the side of a house on some support. They may be trained into bush form by proper pruning and staking if they are of sturdy growth.
Making Supports
There are various methods of supplying support; in this respect, the available material and ingenuity of the grower may be given full sway.
A sturdy stake, or post, may be placed near the plant’s crown, and a wagon wheel attached to the top of it through the hub.
The canes are trained between the spokes, and the ends are clipped off when they reach the desired height. If a wheel is unobtainable, the same results may be had by fining two pieces of wood inside a barrel hoop to serve as the spokes and a means of attaching it to the post.
As an alternative, an X could be made of wood and heavily insulated wire or rope strung from the point to the point of the X.
The height from the ground at which the wheel is to be placed will depend on the vigor of the variety and preference of the grower. For active types, about 5’ feet is desirable.
Tender and semi-tender types are amenable to this training method, as it is simple to unfasten the wheel and lay the entire plant on the ground during the winter.
The free circulation of air around the plant also prevents mildew, which, unfortunately, affects many of our most desirable climbing roses. When in bloom, it isn’t easy to find a more attractive garden or lawn specimen; at other times, the appearance is quite pleasing.
Related: Different Ways To Use Climbing Roses
Four substantial stakes are placed close to the crown and radiating outward to about 3’ feet apart at a height of 4’ feet and braced with lighter -wood is frequently used in England for training vigorous climbers.
Suitable canes are introduced up the stakes and tied together at the tips. Later, growth is intertwined, and the entire effect resembles a glorified balloon.
Hardy climbers should be more generally planted because of their dependability, flexibility, and superb beauty.
Pillar Roses
A pillar rose may be described as one that lacks the vigor of a climber, and the wood is too short and stiff to ramble. Blaze is an excellent representative of this group.
Any climber or rambler can be trained as a pillar rose, and this word should be used to describe the method of training rather than the titan-the type of rose.
In either event, the variety must be suitable for the activity about a post. Or other support. In such a manner that all upright growth is encouraged.
Horizontal growth is restrained by shortening all wood back to two or three eyes. The new development produced by the remaining eyes is the blooming wood of the following season.
By pruning in this way, a pleasing formality and anti-regularity in appearance are obtained. This training should be repeated after each blooming season, and the older wood should be removed occasionally at the base to encourage new and vigorous growth.
A pillar rose (iii facts, all climbing roses) should be clothed with foliage and bloom evenly from near the time base to the top to be practical and most attractive.
However, if we were to study the blooming habits of the average climber, we would find that those shoots that grow practically straight upward bloom only near the top and that the lower buds remain dormant.
Therefore it is advisable, whatever time support may be, to train the canes so that they extend upward in a zigzag manner or, in other words. as nearly horizontal as possible.
Garlands Or Noses
Very few varieties of climbers, ramblers, or pillars cannot be used effectively if trained as garlands. This training method sets posts about 10’ feet apart and extends 8’ feet above the ground.
Midway between each post, a shorter one about 5’ feet in height is set, and a chain is draped from pillar to post.
Varieties of roses with soft, pliable canes are the most suitable and form tile most graceful garlands. Vigorous growing types are planted at the base of the tall posts and less vigorous ones at the others.
As they grow, tine canes are wrapped around the bar (one clockwise and another counterclockwise) until they reach the top and are then trained along the chain in both directions.
Worthwhile Roses
Rambler or pillar types, as in some cases there is a difference of opinion and, as previously stated, the environment has a lot to do with their growth and habits. Practically all of these are carried by one nurseryman or more.
More On Growing Roses
Create a Stunning Garden Oasis with Climbing Roses: Learn tips on growing climbing roses, choosing the right location, soil prep, and proper pruning techniques.
44659 by R. E. Shepherd