Bottomless buckets, rusty cans, and decrepit bushel baskets become commodities of value when plants need umbrellas. I once used (with much success) an old bushel basket to shade a white deutzia transplanted while it was in bloom.
It needed shade and wind protection while recovering from the shock of being moved and while it was becoming established in its new home.
Air Circulation Is Important
Most plants require shade from the sun and protection from strong winds for several clays when being moved barefoot, but they also require a free flow of air. Thus cans of all sizes with airy holes are even better than shiny new ones, but either serves the purpose.
No better umbrella could be desired if one is fortunate enough to get plants to reset during cloudy weather.
For a Row Of Petunias Or Tomato
Plants set out during cloudless weather, remove the bottoms from good cans, and tilt a can southward over each plant.
This gives shady exposure at the base yet allows air circulation. Lightly drape leafy material (weeds if you possess any!) or twigs from shrubs or trees over the tops of the cans.
The leafy material over any metal container —bottomless buckets or cans—not only provides shade and air but prevents the metal from getting so hot that it would cook the plants on a warm and sunny day.
Using Twigs For Shade
Often, all that is necessary is to place short twigs on the south side of newly-set plants. I borrow branches from the generous black haw for my many marigolds when they are reset from seed frame to permanent location.
Pieces of shingle set upright on the sunny side provide the same protection. Longboards placed on bricks over rows of newly-set plants often give just enough shade needed for success.
Now To Shade Seedframes
Burlap sacks and lath frames are ideal for covering seed frames. Several years ago, I received, in late June, 15 packets of choice hand-pollinated hemerocallis (daylily) seed. These had been stored in outside quarters during the winter.
The seeds were planted at once (June 21) in a seed frame, watered well, and the frame covered with burlap. On July 3, plants were up in every row except three. When most of the seeds had germinated, the burlap was removed,
The plants grew fast, and as soon as they were large enough to handle, they were reset to rows in the garden. Twiggy branches over the plants were all the shade they needed while getting established.
Off To A Good Start.
The plants made rapid growth in the first year. The following June, three days before they were a year old (June 18), I found the first buds!
Shading at the proper time (while the seeds germinated and after the plants were reset) was vital in establishing this record.
For seed frames containing lily seeds—use burlap to shade the frames in early spring while the seeds are germinating. After all, they are growing well. Substitute lath frames for the burlap to give needed shade.
Transplanting Lily Seedlings
New rows of seedling yellow eon-color lilies are watched closely at blooming time. When rogues appear (orangy-red and red blossoms), the plants are dug and set into the bed of red lilies. The plants are then 2’ or more feet tall—an awkward height to shade.
Leafy branches from shrubs or trees longer than the height of the lilies is cut and stuck into the ground on the south side of each plant.
The plants are watered well. Normally we do not reset lilies while in active growth, but with this green umbrella for shade and protection during a critical period, the plants do not resent the move.
44659 by Olga Rolf Tiemann