As far back as I can recall, we have grown peonies. My father, R. H. Jones, Peru, Indiana, bought his first collection of peonies when I was only three years old.
This was the beginning of the hobby he now says has developed into a “horse.” So from the time I was small, I have loved peonies.
When used singly or in a mass planting, there is nothing so lovely as the peony. Flowers range from the purest white to the darkest red, varying in pink, rose, and magenta shades.
The only true yellow herbaceous peonies are Paeonia mlokosewitschii and a few of its offspring, yet many others have a decided yellow cast.
A few of these are Moonglow, Primevere, Golden Bracelet, and Thura Hires. Their color can be retained if cut when blooms are half developed and allowed to flower indoors.
Peonies In Landscape Work
When using peonies in landscape work, remember that the three- to five-eye division you are planting will be a good-sized bush in a few years. Therefore, allow at least 3′ feet between plants. Many varieties are tall enough to use as a background.
In contrast, others may be used effectively where a fairly low planting is desired by tall, I mean approximately 3 ½’ feet, and by low, about 18″ inches.
Something to remember when setting out peonies is that the foliage could be more attractive after the blooming season.
The leaves stay green through the early summer months, but as fall nears, they begin to turn brown; that is the time to cut off the stems at the ground.
Only cut the foliage after the leaves begin to die down. Working with other flowers to fill the void after the peony blooms are gone is a good idea.
Peonies Requires A Lot Of Care
Many people feel peonies are difficult to plant and require a lot of care, but this is a mistaken belief, for there are few perennials you can plant and just let grow as easily as you can the peony.
However, in all places where they are used, whether in a border, as a group along a driveway, or as specimen plants, be certain they have full sun the greater portion of the day.
You have probably seen peonies growing at a 90° angle from under a tree, trying desperately to drink in a little sunshine. All the fertilizer you could put around this plant could not be a substitute for the sun’s rays.
Peonies will grow in almost any type of soil that suits a tomato plant. They also do well in almost every region except where the weather is extremely hot and dry and has a short dormant season.
After selecting the right spot in the garden, spade the ground well to loosen the soil to a depth of 10” to 12” inches. It is wise to tamp this down before you start to plant.
Unless you do this, the peony roots will settle as the ground settles, and your peony will be deeper than it should be.
This settling will cause a water pocket and may induce rot. In an old or new planting, the ground level should be kept even with or slightly higher than the surrounding ground. So that proper drainage may be maintained.
Good Fertilizer
You’ll want a good fertilizer now that you have your ground in condition. Most growers use organic fertilizers such as Milorganite, hone-tankage, or bone meal.
This is far safer, as there is no danger of burning the roots, which is often the consequence when chemical fertilizer is not mixed well with the soil.
The following spring, a side dressing of quick-acting plant food can be used with excellent results.
Any chemical material worked in should be kept well away from the roots, or there will be a lot of rotted foliage and stems if the weather is hot.
To proceed with planting, lift enough soil so the root can be placed easily. Remember that the topmost eye of the division should not be deeper than 2 ½” inches below the ground level.
If the ground is damp, it won’t be necessary to use water, but should it be necessary, pull in enough soil to cover the eyes, water well and finish covering. Further watering is only sometimes necessary.
Winter Mulch
A mulch is always wise for the first winter, as freezing and thawing in late winter can play havoc with newly set plants.
Ground corncobs, about 2” inches thick, are excellent. In the spring, the mulch can be .pulled away from the center and left in a ring around the plant.
It holds moisture during dry weather and eliminates a lot of weeding. Straw, peat moss, or mounds of soil may also serve as mulch, but if the soil is used, remember to get it leveled off early enough to avoid damage to the eyes as they push up.
You may or may not have any blooms the following spring, but don’t be alarmed. Many growers pinch off the buds the first season, thus ‘throwing more strength to the roots.
Generally, it would help if you had many lovely flowers in by the third year, in a few varieties. However, your true blooms will show in the fourth year.
If, after a few years, you have had no good blooms from your peonies, they may have been planted too deep.
In the fall, dig down and raise or replant them if necessary. Once your plants bloom well, please do not disturb them; moving them only slows down their progress.
Cutting Peony Blooms
Cutting peony blooms with too much of the stem can do great damage. Always leave two or more leaves on the growing stem, and never cut over half the blooms.
Severe cutting saps the strength, and there will be only a few blooms the following year. After blooming, the appearance of the plants will be neater if the old bloom stems are cut back a bit.
Once you’ve tried raising peonies, your desire to add a few each year will increase. This will prove interesting, as there are many colors and varieties.
The single and Japanese types are becoming more popular with the home gardener, as they are very showy, with their bright yellow stamens and petalodes surrounded by a halo of white, pink, or red petals.
They are excellent for cutting and holding up well while in bloom in the garden, as the blooms will not fill up with rain and topple over as the doubles tend to do.
The hybrids are most unusual in their exotic coloring. Tree peonies are becoming more prevalent and will undoubtedly get a lot of “ohs” and “ales” from those who see them for the first time.
At A Peony Show
Many of you have probably wondered why peonies displayed at a peony show or exhibit are so large when the same varieties grown in your garden never look as good. These show flowers have been disbudded.
All the side buds have been pinched off early, leaving only the terminal bud. This will make the main bloom larger than when a stem is allowed to produce four or five blooms. Some people like many flowers, while others prefer large specimen blooms.
You could disbud half of your plants, using some for cutting and the rest for a show in your yard. Remember, too, that the exhibition flower is the product of loving care.
There are so many fine peonies on the market today it would be difficult to include them all in one list. Unlike other standard perennials, peonies do not become obsolete a few years after they have been introduced.
Festiva Maxima is a good example-1951. Marks the centennial year for this lovely white flecked with red.
Many a relaxing hour will be found among flowers and working the soil at the end of a long day’s work. Give peonies a chance in your garden, and growing them is a fascinating hobby.
44659 by J Knapp