Camellia sasanqua is one of the most rewarding plants that can be grown, and gardeners who cannot offer this species a congenial environment outdoors can at least enjoy specimens thriving in pots or tubs.
Potted Sasanquas flower when small, often when scarcely a foot high, and the charm of these graceful shrubs with their delicate white or pink flowers appeals to all who see them.
Characteristics of Sasanquas
The name camellia invariably comes to the formal and more robust Japanese type to mind. Sasanquas are more graceful and more subtle in every way.
Their elliptic leaves are 1″ to 3″ inches long— about half the length of those of Camellia japonica —and have finely scalloped margins.
These smaller leaves, as well as the slender branchlets and more arching growth, give a completely different effect from the compact and rather heavy specimens of Japanese camellias seen so often in southern gardens.
Blooming Season and Flowers
While some named varieties or clones of Sasanquas have double flowers, most have single blooms and are much more delicate and appealing than the heavier and more formal varieties of camellias.
Individual flowers, which measure from 2 ½” to 3″ inches across, often have from 5 to 9 petals, usually crisped or wavy towards the apex.
Best of all, they bloom in the autumn, starting in September and October and continuing into winter.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Mr. Brimer’s sketches show three Sasanquas planted in a protected angle of a house, where they can be enjoyed from the windows behind them and the breezeway leading to the garage.
Autumn and winter winds will be prevented from damaging buds and flowers in this location, sheltered on two sides, preferably from the west and north.
Fairly sizable established trees furnish a light pattern of shade with high crowns of branches.
Although young and vigorous plants of Sasanquas thrive in practically full exposure to sunlight and retain fine, rich green foliage, established specimens remain in the best condition when strong sunlight reaches them in small fragments filtering through the branches of trees.
A framework of Oak branches gives sufficient masking of sunlight in winter, and in many combinations, Oaks seem ideal companions for these bushy camellias.
Too much shade causes the camellias to become thin and straggly, and the tops of the trees shown in the sketches, especially if they are evergreens, can be thinned and the side branches removed as the picture develops.
The group of trees is labeled as Oaks, but Pines, Carolina cherry laurels, Tupelos, or Gums would also be suitable.
Surface-rooting trees such as Hollies, Maples, and Magnolias would be less favorable, though it would be possible to utilize them if additional care is given to feeding and watering.
Contrast With Thorny Elaeagnus
Single specimens of Thorny Elaeagnus (Elaeagnus pungens) are used at the two corners more exposed to winds.
This sturdy shrub is also evergreen but with leaves covered with minute scales and of a very different texture, which will furnish an interesting contrast with the Sasanquas and with the Periwinkle ground cover.
The Elaeagnus produce their small white trumpets of flowers in autumn or early winter, and these have a very pleasing fragrance—a good reason for having a specimen or two near walls and windows.
Hardy Nature of Elaeagnus
Interestingly, this species of Elaeagnus is listed in the Reader’s Manual as being hardy as far north as Zone VII, the same zone in which the camellias are tentatively placed. This area is designated as having winter temperatures not ordinarily falling below 5° degrees Fahrenheit.
Specimens of Thorny Elaeagnus thrive on Long Island, in New Jersey, and sheltered spots as far north as Massachusetts.
It is scarcely hoped that Sasanquas will prove equally sturdy; the possibility of growing them outdoors in the north is very alluring, and plant breeders have accomplished miracles as astounding as this.
Growing Camellias
One of the most important considerations in growing camellias is to ensure they receive a generous amount of moisture. However, they will not thrive in an excessively wet location or where water stands for any length of time.
They are not exacting as to a particular type of soil, but one made up of a mixture of peat or humus and porous loam gives good results.
The mixture should permit water to drain through it readily, and if the loam is on the heavy side, it should be added.
History and Variations of Sasanquas
Sasanquas can be planted to the best advantage in spring, preferably just before their period of shoot growth, or just as this is completed and before buds for the next bloom are developed.
Compact and fibrous roots make handling and transplanting fairly easy, though plants should be given every consideration and never be permitted to dry out.
Mulch three inches of slightly acidic compost or any clean mulching material should be applied immediately after planting. This covering, which should be maintained continuously, is especially important if the shrubs are grown in a somewhat dry location.
Sasanquas were originally brought from China in the early 1800s by one of the East India Company captains and admired for the charming simplicity of their white or pale pink flowers.
This species also grows wild extensively in southern Japan, as with azaleas, flowering cherries, peonies, and many other Asiatic plants, Japanese gardeners have developed distinctive variations, increasing the range of color well into the soft reds, changing flower forms, and extending the season of bloom.
In more recent years, numerous lovely selections have been made in this country.
44659 by Ben Blackburn