Every year the lawn season is marked by extreme variability in moisture and temperature conditions, and in many instances, these abrupt changes were seriously damaging to grass.
This was to be expected since a lawn made up of thousands of growing grass plants cannot move into the shade or into a cool room when the temperature shoots skyward.
It just has to stay where it is and “take it.”
Then, too, the frequent spring rains encouraged lush top growth, but they also drowned out the deep roots, and the shallow roots could not support such hungry top growth when hot, dry weather followed.
Again, the cool weather experienced in many parts of the country during June and July was ideal for heavy growth, but such growth could not stand alone when the climate switched to intense heat and high humidity later on.
Damaging Grubworm Infestation
Landscapers reported that while much of the grass damage had been blamed on over-fertilization or excessive weed control application, actual examination proved severe grubworm infestations were responsible.
The injury coincided with homeowners’ use of some fertilizer or weedkiller, and these products were erroneously blamed.
One man in the New York area, for example, said, “After spending many dollars trying to improve my lawn this spring, I now have no lawn at all. I’m almost certain this damage was the direct result of my last grass fertilizer application.”
But an immediate inspection of this gentleman’s lawn proved beyond all doubt that grubs had severed the grassroots, and the ensuing weather had been most unkind to the sod when it caught it with its roots missing.
Presence Of Crabgrass
Another case of mistaken analysis of lawn damage came from the Philadelphia area.
“This year, I’m thoroughly disgusted,” ran the complaint; “In fact, I’m about fit to be tied. Despite full feedings spring and fall and 5 years of crabgrass hand picking, the lawn looks fine only until the crabgrass comes. Each year it’s worse, and this year it’s the worst of all.”
A look at this lawn and the neighboring lawns revealed that the absence of lawn grass and the presence of crabgrass were fundamentally due to the grubs of the Japanese beetle.
Digging into the soil showed that a severe grub infestation had killed off the lawn grasses and that the crabgrass had simply taken over.
So the story went throughout the eastern and middle western states.
How Do Grubs And Crabgrass Work?
There are two feeding periods for grubworms of the May and Japanese beetles.
The first is in April and May before the insect emerges as an adult beetle.
The second is in September and October after the new eggs are hatched but before the grub digs deep for the winter.
After the first feeding period, crabgrass develops like lightning in the turf areas weakened by the grubworm feast.
Because the most favorable period for the development of crabgrass comes when the resistance of the good grasses has hit a new low due to the grubworm activity, many folks are quick to blame the whole situation on crabgrass.
Actually, its way has been paved by the grubs.
Another fact to remember in connection with grubworm damage is ‘that the adult beetle always seems to select the best-looking lawn areas to lay her eggs.
In this way, she assures her young an ample supply of tender grassroots.
This is why so many lawns that have had excellent care earlier in the season suddenly become severely scarred by the underground activity of this pest.
Troublesome Chinch Bugs
Chinch Bugs is also troublesome throughout the eastern states.
Large areas of luxuriant grass are laid waste by the armies composed of this tiny stem-piercing, juice-sucking insect.
When weather conditions are just right, chinch bugs multiply rapidly and move swiftly to fill their ravenous appetites.
Rampant Diseases
From Pittsburgh, a gardener submitting a sample of damaged sod for an inspection reported,
“In July, the lawns in my neighborhood were never prettier. Now, most of them have large blotches similar to this sample of sod I’m sending. At first, I blamed my lawn damage on a 2,4-D weed killing preparation I tried, but my neighbors don’t give their grass the attention I do, and now theirs is also ruined.”
The sod sample revealed that the humid weather with above-average temperatures had provided an incubator for turf disease, and the grass had suffered severely in large, circular blotches.
The grass was unusually good through July when more favorable temperatures prevailed.
The grass was an easy mark for disease when severely hot, humid weather followed.
The most common fungus damage to grass is generally known as “brown patch.”
General Reseeding Failure
Still another practice that contributed much to the apparent rundown condition of many lawns was the failure of the homeowner to reseed the thin, weak areas.
While needing general reseeding, many of these lawns went without this annual thickening-up treatment last year because grass seed was scarce and high priced.
Many folks found it too expensive to follow their customary reseeding programs.
This situation prevented weakened turf from fighting back. Instead, blemishes enlarged, for weeds and wild grasses enjoyed greater footholds.
An Eight-point Lawn Program
The best way to keep your lawn in good condition throughout the season is to adopt a simple, systematic lawn care program.
The following eight-point program should meet your requirements.
1. FEED AND RESEED early this spring; strengthen the bare spots.
Two or three pounds of good quality grass seed for 1,000 square feet of lawn, and ten pounds of special turf food for the same area, will be all the materials you will need.
2. ROLL LIGHTLY after the ground thaws and excess moisture drains away.
Use a light roller weighing about 75 pounds per foot of width.
This is intended only to press the grassroots gently back into the soil from which they have been raised by freezing action.
3. MOW CLOSELY at first (approximately 1” inch), then up to about 2” inches later during the summer months.
The close cutting is not harmful at the beginning of the season and encourages the lateral spread of old grass and the start of the new grass.
Later during June, July, and August, high cutting offers more protection from hot weather.
4. HALT GRUB ACTIVITY when first they return for their early season meal of grassroots in April and May.
Years ago homeowners greeted them with DDT or lead arsenate. Today they apply Scott’s Grubex or Merit insecticide.
5. FEED AGAIN. Use good grass food frequently whenever thin or discolored grass becomes evident.
Feed tree-shaded lawns at regular intervals. Every 4 or 5 weeks isn’t too often under these conditions.
This is a double-duty job because shallow tree rooks are always hungry and often use up the lion’s share.
Apply the grass food evenly with a mechanical distributor.
6. MOW HIGH (up to 2″ inches) but less frequently and only as additional growth makes mowing necessary.
7. START ‘WATERING when you anticipate moisture deficiency.
Apply ample quantities and replace moisture before your grass blushes with a blue-green color.
Make your watering practices augment nature’s watering program.
When nature’s moisture supply suddenly ceases, fill in the gap with your own hose and sprinkler.
8. VANQUISH WEEDS with the new combination of grass food and weed control measures.
A dry application is now available to clean up and re-vitalize lawns populated with broad-leaved weeds.
It is easily applied without mixing or spraying with the same mechanical seeder or spreader you used to seed and fertilize your lawn.
Do It Yourself!
By carrying out the above eight-point program, you enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.
It provides mild, healthful exercise and supplies a constant source of interesting information about Nature.
Now that hand-weeding is over, more time is available (better not let the “other half” know about this bonus period!) for other lawn duties.
Now it is easier to keep a lawn well fed and perfectly weed-free.
There is more time to become an expert at lawn watering.
And there is still more time to sit back and enjoy the simple beauty of a fresh, brilliantly colored uniform carpet of grass around your home.