A ground cover is a low-growing, often evergreen plant used in place of grass, pebbles, a mulching material, or earth in a spot that might otherwise be unsightly. It often decorates the base of trees and shrubs to keep the roots cool and hold in moisture. It also keeps down weeds and other plants that might spring up unbidden.
Establish a good ground cover where it is needed, and your troubles in that area will be partly over. As most of them arc to grow in the shade, plant them with plenty of compost. The following spring, add a little fertilizer and more compost if needed; cultivate and weed in early summer.
Water during dry spells and watch out for weed demons during the warm weather. After that, the ground-cOver should feel at home and start looking after itself.
In parts of the South, where grass does not grow well, grass-like substitutes are used, such as Mondo japonicum, Meibontia, and Liriope spicata, or low-growing plants like Dichondra. Most of these do not like being walked on. Still, they take quite a lot of abuse and generally give a good appearance in shady northern areas.
The trees are essential; a carpet of Veronica officinalis can be used. Under pine trees, the ground beneath can be carpeted with pine needles, which give a resilient walking surface and a neat appearance. I’ve seen whole yards covered in sandy districts, with only the flower beds and borders—arranged artistically in certain areas—to add green to the picture.
Vines and shallow-rooting plants make the best living ground covers around the base of trees whose roots tend to grow toward the top of the soil. Pachysandra grows under a Beech where grass refuses to grow because of many tree roots.
Plant Vines Near Branch Tips With Fewer Roots
Woodbine, Ivy, or other Viney plants grow under low-hanging Maple boughs. Plant the vines under the outside tips of the branches where roots are fewer. Train them inward toward the trunk.
Ground-covers, correctly used, add much to the practical garden picture. Pachysandra or Periwinkle planted around and among foundation shrubs look attractive and eliminate the need for mulching with peat moss every year. These rooting trailers act as a mulch and stay green all winter.
Ground-covers planted along the edges of foundations help tic the building to the ground. In the North, Woodbine and Ivy are loved because they will creep up the side of a house and chimney. In the South, Strawberry Geranium and Pilea-microphylla are used in a foundation planting.
On the north side of a house, where flowering shrubs and perennials are apt to be unhappy, Lily-of-the-Valley. as a ground cover, gives green all summer and sprays of dainty fragrant blossoms in spring. For outside cellar window wells in the shade, plant Kenilworth Ivy or Akebia quinata to trail down the sides of the well without shutting out the light.
Where there are steps to a house and a bit of banking that might become muddy in rainy weather, consider one of the creeping Junipers (Juniperus horizontalis), which will take a light shade or Elionyritris radicans. Steeper banks, or stretches of shady areas under trees or bushes, can be planted to Fragrant Sumac or Yellow Root.
If you want a glamorous ground cover, try Pachistima canbyi, which is evergreen and grows to 1′ feet; it turns a beautiful bronze in the autumn. A few rocks placed at strategic spots in banking will hold back the soil, too, and can be interspersed with groups of ‘shade-loving plants of varying heights to create the semblance of a shady rock garden.
Low-growing ground covers, if needed, can be planted between the groups.
Flagstone walks and terraces call for a flat type of ground cover. Here, rosettes of A jugs, Phlox stolonifera, or A ritennaria plantaginifolia make themselves at home, if not too often trampled under the heel.
In gardens with natural outcroppings of rock ledges, the creeping type of ground cover is excellent compared to some of the upright rock plants and enhances the ridge. Arabis makes lovely silvery mats of leaves to tumble down over a rock during the summer if the shade is not too dense.
Vines serve climbing purposes and can be a natural means of relating our house to the ground. What chimney is not further enhanced by hardy Ivy or Virginia Creeper, which turns a beautiful red in the fall? A quick-growing plant for the side of a house is Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), with large, lustrous deciduous leaves that have brilliant fall color.
Wall Increases Planting Space
Never waste a fence, even in the shade! If you are crowded for space, a wall gives you more planting area because the plants grow up, not out. Two lovely fence-climbers are Thunbergia Grandiflora and Thunbergia alata, the former with large blue flowers and the latter with pretty purple-throated, apricot-colored flowers.
They are Southern vines, but they will easily decorate northern greenhouses in the sun or partial shade, and Thunbergia atom, or Black-Eyed Susan, is often grown annually.
Strong-caned roses like Silver Moon will bloom with as little as five hours of direct sunlight a day. Virgins Bower (Clematis virginiana) will offer good blooms in light or partial shade. All Clematis flowers seek the sun, but their roots like cool refreshment, a combination which the shady garden can often offer, particularly when a fence is involved.
In a small yard, nothing is like a fence with a vine growing on it to extend the vision. One sees the vine beyond the other plantings, and it suggests expanse.
A city garden can be treated this way, one end “pushed out” using a sapling fence with grapevines espaliered against it. The hold leaves of the Grape not only will provide contrast to dark evergreens in front of them and nearby deciduous shrubbery but give a feeling of spaciousness and depth, of something beyond.
Some vines are used interchangeably with, and as, ground-covers.
They make decorative borders for lawns and terraces, which are between bricks or low metal walls sunk in the ground. Established in this way, some of the low ranch-type houses lend a note of practical embellishment in following along the standard line of the house.
The trailing varieties are lovely set into some of the new built-up flower beds to serve as a ground cover that trails down over the sides. Other vines must have supports to be at their best.
Many vines prefer sunshine to shade, but a surprising number tolerate shade even to the extent of giving flowers and fruits. A few (such as Ivy) grow better in the shade.
Plants For Shade
Actinidia arguta — Bower Actinidia. High-climbing, vigorous. Glossy green leaves at the end of red petioles. Suitable for screening purposes. Rank the grower in good soil. Other species.
Adonia fungosa – Allegheny Vine. Biennial; self-sows when established. Low and bushy the first season. Pinnate leaves with attractive, delicate leaflets. Big panicles of white and purplish flowers do not like wind or direct sun.
Aegopodium podagraria — Bishops-Weed. Ground-cover to 14″ inches. Quick-growing and weedy. Ideal for some shady places. Var. variegation is lovely.
Ajuga – Bugle-Weed. Quickly grown, flat mats of leaves. Flower spikes to 10″, in pink, blue, or white. Quick grower. Likes humus, shade. Ground-cover for untrodden places. Purple and variegated varieties.
Akebia quinata – Light, airy vine to 30′ feet. Suitable for arbors, waterspouts, posts, etc. Neat. As a ground cover, it kills other plants. Dark-colored flowers need hand pollination for fruit.
Ampelopsis brevipedunculata — PorceIain-Berry. Vigorous climber with deeply-lobed leaves. Climbs or sprawls hut should be where its beautiful fruit (pale-lilac to turquoise) can be appreciated. Not particular as to soil.
Antenizaria—Pussys-Toes. Not usually at nurseries but plentiful in the fields. Excellent mat for between stepping stones. Poor soil. Tolerates shade.
Arenaria Montana — Mountain sand-wort. Flat mats. Does not like to be stepped on. Pretty white flowers. Sandy soil with humus so that water drains quickly. Light and half-shade.
Aristolochia durior—Dutchmans-Pipe. A vine to 30′ feet. Native. Hardy, tolerant of shade and dry soil, hut likes rich soil. Large, heart-shaped leaves make a dense screen. Flowers – odd little purplish “pipes.”
Asarum canadense – Wild Ginger. Ground-cover for shady, woodsy places with plenty of humus.
Celastrus scandens — Bitter-Sweet. Grows almost anywhere. Shade, as well as sun. If near a building, it must be pruned heavily. Unsurpassed for old stone walls, trellises, and difficult places. Beautiful red and yellow berries in the fail. Must have two sexes.
Cerastium – Snow-in-Summer. Mats of silvery-white foliage. White starry flowers in spring. Tolerates light shade. Clematis paniculata—Autumn Clematis. Delicate, graceful habit, growing in dense masses on fences, etc., but not a rampant climber. Delicate blossoms. Many hybrids, most of which like cool roots but need the sun to bloom. Try light shade and experiment. Rich soil, moisture, lime.
Convallaria majalis – Lily-of-the-Valley. Excellent ground cover for shady places. Grows anywhere. Delightfully fragrant white blossoms in spring. Good foliage all summer. Red berries. Cymbalaria muralis (Linaria cymbalaria)—Kenilworth Ivy. Not quite hardy, but seeds itself. Likes moisture and shade: Ground-cover or dainty trailer. Lilac flowers. Excellent for small places.
Dolichos Hosei—Sarawak-Bean. Trailing legume, covering ground to 6″ in several months. Grown in the South, mostly in shady locations. Suitable for broad banks, slopes, and orchards. It can be walked on a little.
Euonymus radicans and varieties. Wintercreeper. Trailing evergreen; sometimes pruned to the shrubby formation (as in a hedge). Very useful and ornamental; around steps, old walls, over rocks. Low or shrubby. (See local catalogs.)
Ficus radicans. More suitable as southern ground cover than Ficus pumila. Establishes quickly, enduring temperatures to 26° degrees Fahrenheit. Does well in the shade, relatively moist, heavy soil.
Fragaria chiloensis—Strawberry. Grows in the shade if berries are not wanted. Weed out old plants.
Gelsemium sempervirens — Carolina Yellow Jessamine. Twining evergreen shrubs for slopes, banks, or other large areas. Fragrant large yellow flowers; less profuse in shade; acid soil; part-shade.
Hedera Helix—English Ivy. Glossy evergreen leaves, usually lobed, often with attractive white veining. Excellent for ground cover or as a vine. Good for cutting. Var. Baltica is hardier in New England. Comes through winter better in the shade. Pine boughs to keep leaves from burning. Many uses; many varieties. Hedera canariensis—Algerian or Canary Island Ivy; used in Southern states.
Hydrangea petiolaris —Climbing Hydrangea. They are clinging vines up to 75′ feet. Flat, white clusters of flowers 6″ to 10″ inches across. Brick walls or a tree rather than wood. Slow to get established, but worth cultivating.
Iris cristata—Ground cover for specific places. It takes an almost dense shade and blooms excellent.
Juniperus horizonialis — Creeping Juniper. Up to 12″ inches. Plant 2′ feet apart in staggered rows for bank or large, shady areas. Eventually, grow into each other. Laniium maculatum — Dead-Needle. To 1′ feet. White striped leaves make an exciting and attractive ground cover. Flowers add white or rosy-purple color. Easy to grow.
Lathyrus linifolius — Everlasting Pea. Rose-flowering. Easily cultivated, thriving almost anywhere. Rampant grower; good for trellises, walls, wild, rough places. A natural shade-lover. Var. White Pearl, and others.
Liriope spicata — Creeping Liriope. Lilyturf. Grass-like evergreen to 10″. Half to full shade, replacing grass in many places. Excellent or poor soil. Drought-resistant, hardy. Purple to white flowers in late summer. Excellent ground-cover.
Lonicera Henryi — Henry’s Honeysuckle. Half-evergreen, actually a climbing shrub. Fragrant white flowers change to yellow—many uses. Suitable for covering sloping banks, old stumps and rocks can be trained to a trellis but strictly pruned. Takes light shade.
Lysimachia Numinalarla—Moneywort. Excellent ground cover for suitable places. Withstands shade. Flat round leaves, pretty little yellow flowers. Likes rich soil.
Meibonzia cana—Tick-trefoil. Procumbent, woody perennial. Sun or shade. It needs to be mowed more in the shade, as it takes over like a lawn. Light, well-drained soil. Endures tramping.
Mentha Pulegiutn—Pennyroyal. Flat, creeping herb with an aromatic scent. Said to keep mosquitoes away. Light shade. Mitchella repens—Partridge-Barry. Native evergreen. Not used nearly enough. Small, round leaves, white-veined. Small, white flowers followed by a prominent red berry. Needs acid soil, compost, and shade.
Nepeta hederacea—Ground Ivy. Creeping, mat-forming perennial for sun or shade. Light blue flowers in sparse clusters. Apt to be weedy unless restricted. Lovely variegated variety.
Ophiopogon japonicas — Dwarf Lily turf. Dark-green, grass-like leaves up to 12″. Flowers are small, lilac-colored, usually hidden by foliage. Dwarf but less enduring than Liriope. Ground-cover in South; sun or shade.
Pachistinta Canby. Evergreen to 12″ inches. One of the best wintergreen ground covers. Acid soil and shade, Small leaves turn beautiful bronze in fall.
Pachysandra ternrinalis — Japanese Spurge. Another excellent ground cover. Evergreen. Attractive around shrubs and the base of trees. Likes compost and shade.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia— Virginia Creeper. Deciduous, high-climbing vine. Clings to walls and trees. Excellent for banks. Beautiful fall coloring. Handsome, glossy, 5-parted leaves.
Parthenocissus tricuspidata — Boston Ivy. High-climbing. Trifoliate leaves. Glossy. Dense, flat covering for walls. Brilliant yellow and red fall coloring. Other species stand part-shade too.
Phlox stolonifera — Creeping Phlox. Flat, half-evergreen mats of leaves. Beautiful orchid-colored phlox-like flowers in spring. Delightfully fragrant. Loves humus; quickly grown.
Pilea microphylla — Artillery Plant. Leaves dark green—good ground cover for Southern states; also used for edging, Pilea nummulariaefolia.
Polygonum Auberti — Silver Lace-Vine. Fast-grower to 25′ feet. Long clusters of greenish-white flowers in late summer. Fragrant. Takes light shade only.
Saxifraga sarmentosa — Strawberry-Geranium. Attractive, green, veined leaves, reddish below. Creeps by numerous stolons to form a good ground cover for southern gardens. Prefers shade. Northern house-plant.
Schizocentron Elegans—Mexican creeping vine. Forms thick carpets. Charming plant. Deep blue flowers. Shade or sun; light warm soil; mild climate, but can be grown in New York.
Sedum acre – This and other species and varieties will take fight shade, and such is their “running” capacity that they make good ground covers for specific areas. Some are evergreen, seed readily, and can be moved around without suffering.
Thunbergia grandifiora – Tall climber. Large beautiful tubular blue flowers. Tender. Suitable for fences in semi-shade, Thunbergia (data— Black-eyed Susan. Climbs trees, walls, etc. Delightful apricot-colored flowers with dark throats. They are grown in the North as an annual. Likes the sun but will take partial shade.
Thymus-Thyme – Many varieties. Likes the sun but takes a light shade. Suitable for between stepping stones. Forms flat mat.
Trachelospermum jasminoides — Star Jasmine. Fragrant, white flowers in small clusters. Dark green, evergreen foliage. Rapid growth to make a wide screen, Likes humus and moist shade. Veronica officinalis— Common Speedwell. Matted, creeping evergreen. Native. Grows under trees and in the shade where no grass will grow. Excellent for around such things as lilacs.
Vinca minor — Periwinkle. Favorite trailing evergreen ground cover. Glossy leaves. Attractive violet-blue flowers. Hardy. Likes humus. One of the best plants to grow under trees.
Vitis – Grape. Fast-growing, deciduous vine. Coarse but attractive leaves, particularly when young. Vine was as ornamental as it is functional. Takes an almost dense shade. Japanese beetles infest them.
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