Judging by the incredible number of creations they turn out every year, I think the cactus hybridists are busier than bees.
And I have particular admiration for those who grow the epiphyllums.
Literally, thousands of different varieties are available.
You can choose porcelain-pure flowers of many shapes, in sizes up to 10” inches across, and all colors except true blue.
One specialist’s catalog describes more than 75 variations in the white and pale yellow flowering class alone.
And then there are reds, pinks, salmons, rosy-lavenders, oranges, ambers, coppers, purples, orchids, and many combinations.
Ethereal Qualities Of Epiphyllum Flowers
The center of some Epiphyllum flowers has a crown like a passionflower clematis.
Others are like an airy spray or fountain.
Petals of Epiphyllum flowers come in all shapes and sizes.
But I beg to differ with the grower who dreamed up the popular name, “orchid cactus.”
The only qualities these plants have in common with orchids are the ethereal beauty of their flowers (not the form) and the fact that they like to grow on trees.
I think “water-lily cactus” would be much more appropriate and descriptive because the flowers are formed like water-lilies.
But then, perhaps people would think they like to grow in water, and they definitely don’t.
The “leaves” are certainly cactus-like—thick, broad, and flat, scalloped on the edge and strung together by a woody midvein.
Some are even triangular. But, cactus-like, they’re not leaves; they’re stems.
And they store up food and moisture to tide the plants over a long dry spell in arid areas.
Epiphyllums As Miniature, Basket Varieties
Until fairly recently, epiphyllums grew so large they were grown mostly by fortunate residents of mild climates or owners of greenhouses.
But hybridists are now contributing a new race of “miniature, basket varieties” that make them suitable for smaller quarters.
They’re no more “miniature” than “miniature amaryllids” like the 2’ foot hymenocallis.
But they do make beautiful baskets.
And they will flower exotically while still small, on an apartment window sill.
So now, everyone can enjoy them.
New Basket Variations Of Epiphyllums
Catalog descriptions are as tantalizing as the menu for a gourmet dinner.
Here are some of the new basket variations of Epiphyllums:
- ‘Fairyland’ has pointed petals “shading from fuchsia edges to white center, with red back petals.”
- ‘Crimson Tide’ is called “best of the reds, waxy black-red.”
- ‘Sea Breeze’ has pink with back petals arranged like rays, the center protruding daffodil-wise.
- ‘Anna Brunnow’ is flatter, soft pink, and ruffled.
- ‘Dancer’ has a double burnt red petals with a shower of gold in the center.
- ‘Pedra’ has petals more rounded and lily-like of bright rose.
- ‘White Fairy’ is pristine perfection, with slim-pointed petals like rays on the outside, shorter and broader in the center.
Nearly 50 basket varieties are available this year, with more to come, I’m sure.
Although these plants will flower with less sun than most cacti, they are “shade plants” only in hot climates where they can spend the summer near a protective north wall or in the dappled shade from a tree.
In northern areas, Epiphyllums need all possible sun from fall to spring and light shade against only the hottest summer sun.
For fullest flowering, remember to do the following tips:
- Keep temperatures between 65° and 70° degrees Fahrenheit.
- Provide extra humidity (if the indoor air is dry, as it usually is in winter) by setting the pots on moist gravel or sand.
- Spraying the plants and surrounding the area with a fine mist at least once a day will be helpful also.
Ideal Soil For Epiphyllums
Epiphyllums should be potted in a light, porous, humus-rich mixture that will hold some moisture and yet will drain quickly.
If you make your own soil mix, try ⅓ good garden loam, ⅓ coarse leaf mold or similar humus, and ⅓ sharp sand.
Or buy the prepared general-purpose house plant potting soil.
To either, add a generous amount of crushed charcoal.
During the active growing season, from early in the year through the flowering period in late spring or early summer, keep the soil constantly moist (but not soggy-wet) by following these tips.
- Make sure to feed the soil regularly (every other week) with a half-strength solution of any good soluble house plant fertilizer.
- Avoid fertilizers that are extra-rich in nitrogen (see analysis on the label).
- In winter, when the plants are resting, give them just enough water to keep the stems from shriveling.
You’re not being kind to an epiphyllum when you give it an extra-large pot.
It will flower best when slightly root-bound.
Here are some tips on how to root-bound an epiphyllum:
- Repot only when the roots have formed a solid ball (with mature plants, no more often than every second year).
- Have the plant in a new pot and soil nearly dry, and withhold water for 3 or 4 days after repotting.
- Water sparingly for the next 3 to 4 weeks.
Proper Way Of Root Cutting Epiphyllums
Once you’ve had one epiphyllum open its exotic flower in your window garden, you’ll be so thrilled you’re bound to want more.
And by the way, I’ve grown these plants under artificial light, and they bloomed bountifully.
Once you’re in the epiphyllum game, you’ll want to propagate your plants for gifts to friends or to exchange with other fanciers.
Here are the steps to properly propagate your epiphyllums:
- Take long stem cuttings with a strong center stem.
- Lay them aside for a week or 10 days until the cut end has callused over.
- Insert the cuttings up to 1” inch deep in coarse, dryish sand or directly in a pot with charcoal-coarsened potting mixture
- Keep them warm, humid, and shaded from the sun until new growth shows that roots have formed.
- Remember to handle these cuttings with care.