Here’s what you need to build a lawn:
1. For a Level Lawn, do the heavy work in the subsoil. Use a taut string for lining up smooth grades, clear away stones and debris, and eliminate ridges and depressions.
Then replace topsoil to a depth of 6” inches, allowing for later settling. Mix fertilizer, organic matter, and lime at this stage of work.
2. Preparing the Seedbed is a job for a large wooden rake. Note the angle for moving loose soil to fill up small depressions.
Raking out small stones should be done now. Then roll to make a firm, smooth seed bed. Finally, loosen the top half inch of soil with a rake or light harrow for germinating the layer.
3. Seeding is the smallest part of the work. Divide the seed into two parts, then sow half in one direction and another half at right angles for even distribution.
The best time for seeding a lawn is from mid-August to the end of September. Good grass seed is worth the extra cost: weed-free turf.
4. Raking after seeding should be done very lightly. Use a wooden rake, first in one direction, then at right angles.
Just the weight of the rake is enough. Only a little soil over seeds is needed – about ⅛” inch.
Even covering gives even germination. Undersoil should be moist, and the top dry enough to rake.
5. Rolling after seeding brings seeds into contact with warm, moist soil and promotes quick germination.
Use a water ballast roller with most of the water removed. Roll lightly in two directions. Then protect new areas by marking boundaries with string stretched between stakes. Keep your feet off the new lawn!
6. Watering requires care. Use fine spray from the hose regularly until the grass is well up, then use a lawn sprinkler to ensure deep penetration to roots.
September rains help get a new lawn well started. A word of caution: overwatering will produce a stagnant soil condition and poor aeration.
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