The founding fathers of Cape May County, New Jersey, were seafaring men.
In the old churchyards, many stones are marked “Lost at Sea,” while the sailing vessel is a common symbol above many an old family name.
Like all travelers, the captains and their crews brought home souvenirs from their voyages, not the least of which were plants.
Crape Myrtle
Crape myrtle, which came from the Carolinas, is a common sight around the early homes, where the magenta pink and pale mauve blooms of these big-scale shrubs line many a lane.
Although exposed to cold winters, they continue to grow and thrive on many occasions.
Even though the crape myrtle is a woody-stemmed, waxy-leaved plant, similar to the camellia, it apparently survived transplanting better than the camellia.
We have only one record of a camellia plant in Cape May county as early as 1880.
Since those early days, camellias have been improved and toughened so that we can now grow them in this area.
Good Camellia Culture
Because of the ocean’s moderating effect and surrounding bays, the weather in a normal season is reasonably good for camellia culture.
The winter is a poor example, for it was colder than usual. However, the official average weather reports indicate what may typically be expected.
The temperature range is surprisingly small, although, to us, it seems uniformly miserable at times.
High northeast winds, which swoop down on us, bring the salt spray that damages many shrubs and trees. Leaves are burned and turn brown.
As a precautionary measure, local nurserymen recommend that all plants be hosed down with fresh water after a salt coating.
This treatment, however, is not necessary for camellias. Curiously enough, the beautiful foliage continues to glisten and shine despite the salt spray.
My Camellia Planting Experience
My own experience with camellias is not of long standing, but my enthusiasm for growing them is that of a zealous convert.
When planting my first specimen, I followed the rules carefully, and the results were more than satisfactory.
I have not been tempted to improve on standard methods in subsequent plantings. However, these procedures should apply under similar conditions and prove equally satisfying.
Location And Shading
Location is all important. Partial shade is desirable, and in this locality, where shade trees are something of a rarity, the north side of a house is the best location.
This fact was demonstrated dearly this year, when an unusually hot day caused severe browning to the blossoms of plants in a sunny location, while those on the north side remained in good condition.
The hot sun of the afternoon is the most damaging.
Sufficient Watering
Watering is vital to the life of camellias. Since their roots are close to the surface of the soil, they dry out quickly in warm weather.
A thorough soaking once a week has proven sufficient in seasons of normal rainfall, but puddling around the roots should be assiduously avoided.
The beginner should remember that newly transplanted camellias must be watered thoroughly until well established.
Drainage
Drainage is also vitally important. I have found it a good practice to set my plants somewhat higher than the surrounding bed so that moisture will not accumulate around them.
Since the roots are close to the surface, avoid cultivating the soil around the plants.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing is a highly individual matter. Heavy feeding is not necessary, but if you prefer heavy growth and blooms, it is possible to push the plants.
For most gardeners, who are content with typically generous new growth, 2 or 3 applications (about two handfuls for each plant) of a commercially prepared camellia fertilizer are sufficient.
I make the first application at the end of the blooming season.
This year, the growth of my established plants was phenomenal.
Never before have I experienced such an abundance of new growth, even though we are in a near drought condition.
Best Time To Set Out Plants
I have found it best to set out new plants in October or November. If it is impossible to plant them, wait until early spring.
The plant’s condition and the temperature change to which plants shipped from southern nurseries are exposed must be considered when transplanting.
This year, I set out small, newly grafted plants brought from the south in full bloom. Thus far, they have shown no sign of a setback.
Hardy And Vigorous Camellias
Early spring snow seems to have no serious effect on camellias.
I have seen plants in flowers that were heavily covered with snow.
Aside from a bit of shaking to lessen the weight on the branches, I did nothing else, and the plants continued to thrive.
Snow seldom lasts long here because of the salt air. However, prolonged freezing spells could bring harm, though our hot summer sun and wind are more dangerous.
It is a continually recurring miracle to me that despite these conditions, which are truly foreign to camellias, they remain strong and vigorous.
Choose Strong Camellia Varieties For Great Success
Choice of varieties is an important matter that needs careful consideration. But, yet more important is the health of the individual plant.
Strong plants of wide varieties flourish, while weak plants fail regardless of their hardiness.
For general success, Chandleri Elegans is my first choice.
Plants are strong and vigorous, bloom profusely in mid-season, and require little attention.
This is an old established favorite with a particular class and award set aside for the best specimen at the annual show of the American Camellia Society.
The color is a bright, lively pink, and the incomplete double flower has a mass of small petaloid in the center showing stamens.
The Robbinses’ Successful Story Of Growing Camellias
In Goshen, a town near Delaware Bay in Cape May County, Dr. and Mrs. N. A. Robbins have developed a surprisingly simple and successful way of growing camellias.
They dug a pit about 5′ feet deep, 12′ feet wide, and 16′ feet long.
Three of the walls were made of concrete blocks, while the south wall was covered with glass, with a sliding door opening onto a ramp. The top was left open to the weather.
During periods of extreme cold, a tarp, stretched across the top, protects the plants, and occasionally a light bulb is left burning for heat and air circulation.
In the summer, pine boughs replace the tarp and keep the sun’s direct rays off the plants.
This ingenious method allows these camellia enthusiasts to have out-of-door blooms from Thanksgiving and Christmas until Easter.
Experimenting With New Hardy Camellia Varieties
Not only do Dr. and Mrs. Robbins grow the hardiest varieties, but they experiment with new kinds.
Among the varieties, they have successfully grown are the following:
- Arejishi
- Herme
- Debutante (a pure pink peony-like bloom, considered by many to be the loveliest of all)
- Alba Plena, with its large, double white blooms
Despite its slow and bushy growth, this variety is well worth cultivating.
The rich red Professor C. S. Sargent, Pink Perfection, and Chandleri Elegans are other favorites.
In addition to these varieties of Camellia japonica, which thrive under this unique system, the Robbinses are growing Camellia sasanqua in rows hoping to develop a hedge.
The growth habit of Camellia sasanqua is not as attractive as that of Camellia japonica.
Still, the blooming plants make a distinguished and unique addition to a northern garden in locations where the unopened buds are somewhat protected from the frost.
Proper Care And Maintenance
Pruning after the blooming season is possible, although I prefer to prune as I cut the blooms for indoor enjoyment.
It is well to remember that once the tall central branch has been cut, the succeeding growth is likely to be lateral.
Shaping plants is not difficult, but some blooms may have to be sacrificed. So far, we have been completely free of diseases and insects.
Extending The Camellia Season
Regardless of their beauty, other spring-flowering shrubs have a short flowering season.
By judicious planting in this region, the camellia season may be extended.
Varieties listed concerning the time of bloom must be adjusted to our calendar.
Thus an early bloomer in the south becomes a spring bloomer here, and a mid-season variety may enter its blooming period in late April or May.
Some years we have flowers opening in June. A simple burlap windbreak can help a plant flower before the warm days force all the buds at once.
44659 by Frances R. Van Gilder