Most home gardeners living in the latitude of northern Vermont expect to grow hybrid teas less than 5’ to 6’ feet tall. The idea is that it’s foolish to try hybrid teas in climates like ours, with frequent sub-zero temperatures in winter.
An active rose society in Vermont is proof enough that good roses can be grown here. More to the point is our success with a rather broad collection of the choicest varieties.
Although timely feeding, spraying, and watering directly relate to our success with roses, the winter protection we give our plants is of prime importance.
Unless the wood comes through the winter unharmed, good growth and blooms cannot be expected next spring.
Perfected Winter Protection Method
Over the years, we have perfected a method of winter protection for roses that have worked very well in our garden. Here is what we do.
About November 1, the rose bushes are pruned back roughly to about 3’ feet in height. Then, the canes of each plant are drawn together and tied with a soft, heavy cord.
Care should be used not to break the canes or damage the bark. The ground around the plants is then cleaned, and all leaves and old summer mulch are burned.
Following this, frames 18” inches high built of 6-inch matched lumber are placed around the beds.
Topsoil in Vegetable Garden
Topsoil taken out of the vegetable garden is used to fill in around and cover the plants as high as possible. The frames keep the soil from spilling over onto the lawn.
Last, we place evergreen branches over the soil, as shown in the illustration. All of the above work is done as late as possible before the ground freezes and before any heavy or lasting snow.
We usually start uncovering about the second week in April in the spring, but this depends on the weather. Frames are removed first, and then the soil gradually.
Some of the soil may still be frozen, so it takes time. This soil that is removed is put back in the vegetable garden. Care must be taken not to cut or bark the canes.
The soil is removed about an inch below the normal level, and compost is used to fill into the proper level.
Pruning and Feeding
After growth starts, prune out all dead wood, and weak, spindly growth, cutting back to possibly 2’ to 3’ feet. Prune back to an outside bud if possible.
When the pruning is finished, we put a heavy dose of fertilizer around each plant in a circle and scratch it. We do not fertilize again until after the heavy June bloom and then give another heavy dose.
We have used several brands of commercially prepared rose foods and have found them all excellent. No feeding is done after August 1, as late feeding will promote soft growth, which cannot harden before winter, resulting in more winter kills.
After the roses are fed the first time, we put on about a 3” inch mulch of tobacco stems which remains on the beds all summer.
Soon after growth commences, we spray once a week with an all-purpose spray such as Trion—two or three times a season; we spray with DDT or methoxychlor for rose midge. A fungicide is applied at the first signs of any mildew in the early fall. This spray is used several times in addition to the regular all-purpose spray.
Don’t Forget To Water
Watering roses are very important, especially during a dry spell. We’ve found that water answers the purpose better than any other method tried.
When watering, give all the plants a thorough soaking—flood the beds. Never use any sprinkler that wets the leaves.
Rain will generally wash off the spray on rose leaves, which means another spraying is necessary in addition to the regular weekly spraying.
Thus, the rose season unfolds year after year, and never are we disappointed with the results.
There is a tremendous sense of satisfaction from growing roses so well that friends and strangers alike will travel many miles to be thrilled by their beauty.
44659 by John W. Goss