The knotty “to be or not to be” question of rose growers, whether to plant rose in the fall or in the spring, is still being debated.
Yet except in the far north, where spring planting of roses is decidedly preferable, the results seem to be about the same—at least this is so in my northern Ohio garden, with a minimum temperature last winter of 17° degrees Fahrenheit below zero.
Rose Nurseries In The North
In the fall, rose nurseries in the north and cast can supply a complete list of rose varieties, and there is not the great rush of spring planting chores.
The risk of winter loss should not be too great if roses are properly planted and amply protected by mounds of earth.
These mounds are not removed from fall-planted roses until early spring.
Spring-Planted Roses
In the case of spring-planted roses, the mound of earth is applied only to maintain the canes in a plump condition and is removed after a couple of weeks.
Of course, many nurseries in the South and on the West Coast cannot supply ripened plants in time for fall planting in northern gardens.
The plants produced in these two areas are usually of excellent quality and well-adapted for planting in the north.
In preparation for planting them in the spring, rose beds may be rough-spaded or tilled in the fall so that planting may be done very early. In addition, plants may be heeled in (stored in a trench and covered with soil).
A few basic rules should be observed whether roses are planted in the fall or spring.
Basic Rules For Planting Rose
Do not expose the roots to the drying influence of the sun or wind. Instead, dig a hole large enough to accommodate them without crowding or crossing.
Cut back any extremely long roses. The soil should be in contact with the roots but not packed too compactly.
Air pockets may be avoided by lightly tamping the soil if it is loose enough, or the soil may be washed around the roots.
Don’t tamp after watering, as this may cause the soil to “puddle” and become too compact.
Where winter loss is a problem, the bud union (a swelling or knob on the lower part of the stem where the rose variety was budded on the rootstock) should be an inch below the surface in northern gardens; in southern gardens, above the surface.
Factors That Affect Winter Loss Of Roses
The foresighted gardener should consider factors that affect the winter loss of roses.
Here are four major causes of casualties:
Late-Season Growth
Vigorous or rampant late-season growth of roses should be discouraged.
Heavy pruning should be avoided, and blooms should be cut with short stems.
Because fertilizing, watering, and cultivating stimulate growth, fertilizer should be withheld entirely and watering and cultivation held to a minimum after July.
Adequate Drainage
Adequate drainage is important. Roses will not thrive during the summer nor survive the winter in waterlogged soil.
Fattening Rosebush
Like a hibernating bear, a rosebush fattens during the late summer in preparation for a long winter nap.
The foliage, which is the fattening agent, should be maintained in a healthy condition for the plant to function properly.
The combination of insecticides and fungicides, either sprays or dust, now makes it easy to prevent all major defoliation causes.
Protective Mound
Waiting to apply the protective mound of the earth until after several heavy touches of frost have ripened, the wood is not always practicable.
Winter arrived unexpectedly in many parts of the country last year, making it difficult for many rose growers to accomplish this task.
Only the exceptionally heavy snow cover prevented a severe winter loss.
Since I have about 2,000 varieties that must be protected each fall, I must begin mounding about the end of October.
However, I do not cut back the long canes until severe weather has defoliated the branches.
I have found that it is more pleasant to work outside in the garden in October than in November.
A 6-inch mound of the earth will give ample protection, but a higher mound will preserve more wood.
My own soil is a heavy clay loam with adequate drainage. However, the snow cover is usually deficient, and the plants are exposed to heavy winds and maximum winter sunlight.
These cultural directions apply particularly to hybrid teas but generally apply to the other so-called tender roses.
Small-Flowered Polyanthas
The small-flowered polyanthas require but little protection in areas where the temperature does not descend below zero and receive it only in exposed parts of my garden.
The floribundas are intermediate in hardiness between their parents, the hybrid teas, and the polyanthus.
Until the degree of the hardiness of certain varieties is established in your garden, it is advisable to give them some protection.
Hardy Climbers
Hardy rose climbers require no fall care other than anchoring long canes to prevent whipping in strong winds.
Tender climbers should be laid on the ground and covered with soil in severe climates and with straw, roofing paper, burlap, or similar material in sections where only slight protection is required.
Tree roses of the hybrid tea type may be protected either by loosening the roots on one side, laying the plant on the ground and covering it with soil, or digging the plant and burying it.
44659 by Roy E. Shepherd