Packed in the Victorian days in England, plants from the American tropics enjoyed extensive popularity.
Some were used indoors as houseplants, but most of them were grown in conservatories or the warmest sections of the greenhouse ranges called “stove” houses.
Popularity of American Tropic Plants
Plant explorers from the horticultural houses of Europe made long and arduous journeys into the jungles of Central and South America in search of new and interesting plants, and they sent boatloads of specimens back to the continent.
There were not as many greenhouses here in America as abroad, although there were a few outstanding plant collections. Many of the finer homes did have conservatories in which palms and other tropical plants were grown.
Most of the rare tropical plants in this country arrived by way of Europe. The homes without conservatories gave the bay windows over to “mother’s plants,” which featured geraniums in variety, begonias, fuchsias, maidenhair ferns, and ivy.
About the time of the First World War, the interest in tropicals became almost dormant. True, African violets and begonias had a few ardent followers.
Many homes were decorated with rubber plants or Boston ferns in the entrance hall and ragged pieces of philodendron on the mantel, but the intense interest was gone.
Decline of Interest in Tropical Plants
However, since the end of World War II, the tropical foliage plants have staged a popularity comeback of phenomenal proportions in this country.
The conservatory is a thing of the past; the plants refuse to be stuck away in the greenhouse and have moved in and taken a prominent place in the modern home.
Plants for indoor decoration may be purchased in any florist shop, and mass-produced items may be found on bargain counters in supermarkets and dime stores.
Architects are required to draw plant bins and plumbing into house plans, and interior decorators work hand in hand with nurserymen.
Perhaps two reasons exist for this dramatic revival of interest in the old conservatory and stove plants.
First, there is the trend toward the increased use of glass in modern houses. Glass walls make the garden part of the house, and, for transition, living plants are used indoors to tie the house and garden together as one unit.
Second, the universality of central heating makes our homes so constantly warm that tropical plants formerly confined to conservatories and “stoves” may now be grown with success in living rooms.
It makes us wonder if our thermostatically-controlled homes are not entirely similar in atmospheric conditions to the old stove greenhouses.
Resurgence of Tropical Foliage Plants
Hence, it is unsurprising that the revival of interest has brought back into use, as modern house plants, many of the same kinds that were popular 50 years ago.
Collectors from the United States are scouring the southern countries, looking for new varieties with much the same enthusiasm shown by the 19th-century explorers.
Furthermore, air travel has made the journey less difficult for both men and plants. Orchid collecting does not enjoy the prominence it previously did, for while a few species are in demand, the hybrids produced under glass are far superior.
Some work is being done in hybridizing foliage plants, but the old and new natural varieties still dominate the market.
I have been reading a series of old English gardening books bearing the owner’s date of 1881.
In the sections headed “Hot House or Stove Plants” are many of the names of plants in popular accord today, and those being reintroduced in the new catalogs — araucaria, anthurium, bertolonia, billbergia, dieffenbachia, fittonia, hoya, monstera, peperomia. philodendron, pothos, sonerila, spathyphyllum, and vriesia.
Qualifications of a Houseplant
With the current large assortment from which to choose, the first qualification of a house plant is its suitability for indoor growing.
Next, it must have an attractive shape, a size suitable to the location, and colors harmonious with the decor. Now, there is another characteristic that must be considered — appropriate texture.
Plants are chosen for their fuzzy or smooth surfaces depending on the surroundings, just as texture is a factor in selecting drapery material.
House plants are not incidentals but important items in the decoration, which must be suitable in every way for specific locations.
The Victorians loved plants with furry surfaces, probably reflecting their preference for plush upholstery.
Now, the interest in these plants revives for just the opposite reason — their contrast to smooth-surfaced modern furnishings.
Their very appearance lends a softness that is welcome in an otherwise polished setting. Or, they harmonize with heavy, napped rugs. They have eye appeal because of their depth.
Revival of Episcias, Naegelias and Bertolonii
The plants in this class could be considered new, for they are being reintroduced into the trade, but they will be seen more frequently. Their names are unfamiliar now because they have been ignored for generations.
These are the episcias, naegelias, sonerilas, and bertolonias, all shade-loving old stove plants that may be grown with the case in the Modern Home.
The Greeks had a word for shady, which was given as a name for the episcias. However, an enterprising merchant in Asheville, North Carolina, is selling them as “trailing violet begonias”!
Anybody who can grow African violets or gloxinias can grow these members of the Gesneriaceae, and the same applies to the naegelias.
Because episcias have low light requirements, they will grow indoors where many other plants fail.
Their marvelous, downy texture and stenciled vein patterns make them decorative indeed, and while the little tubular flowers are attractive, the foliage commands attention.
Care and Propagation Instructions For Episcias
Episcias (pronounced “epy-se-a” or “e-piss-i-a”) are trailing in habit, putting out long runners that produce new plants. The leaves have about the same size range as African violets but are more oval.
Because of their cascading growth, episcias must be grown in hanging baskets (like fuchsias) or on tall plant stands.
Grow episcias in the same soil you use for African violets — a fibrous, porous mixture of sand, peat moss, leaf mold, and bits of charcoal. Feed weekly with any liquid plant food to produce more luxurious growth.
If possible, place the clay pot in a larger decorative pot lined with sphagnum moss (kept damp) to help supply necessary moisture. Water with room-temperature water, and always keep about 55°.
Episcias are rooted from leaves in water, sand, or vermiculite. New little plants on the runners may be cut off and potted separately any time they have enough roots for self-support.
About 30 species are known, but only eight or 10 are available. Episcia splendens is lime green, with darker markings at the edges which show through lavender underneath. This has the smoothest surface of any of the genus.
E. cupreata, another favorite, has wrinkled, greenish-copper, hairy leaves, lightly brushed down the center with silver streaks. E. fulgida is coppery on top and centered with intensely brilliant green veins.
Its whole surface is iridescent, the lower side lavender. Other fascinating types are the silver-sheen and viridifolia varieties of E. cupreata, E. chontalensis, E. lilacina, and E. tessellata.
The naegelias grow upright, reaching a height of about two feet. The velvety leaves are almost round, veined with maroon, and the attractive tubular flowers are produced several on a stem.
The flowers of Naegelia zebrine are red with yellow spots in the throat. These are tuberous-rooted plants that must be kept warm. They are potted in the same mixture recommended for episcias above, a five-inch pot for each tuber.
Water should be given moderately until plants are four to six inches high, then more frequently until the foliage dies down after flowering. Tubers are kept dry during the Winter. Propagation is by seeds, tubers, and offsets.
Appeal of Bertolonias and Cultivation Tips
Back in 1875, when bertolonias were so popular, Louis Van Houtte was offered $2,000 for his stock of a sensational hybrid bearing his name.
Nowadays, even though the same sum has less value, it is doubtful that the same plants would bring that much. However, they may someday attain their former popularity.
Grown primarily for their beautiful foliage, the species are native to Brazil. The hybrids were made in Europe, mostly by Van Houtte himself.
These plants require very humid conditions and a minimum of 70° degrees Fahrenheit. Their liking for a close, moist atmosphere makes them excellent for terrariums, bubble domes, and Wardian cases.
There are only nine species of bertolonia, of which Bertolonia marmorata is outstanding. Each mature leaf is 5″ to 8″ inches long atop a 6-inch stem.
The fuzzy foliage is a vivid Kelly green, streaked with pure white. The hybrid B. houtteana has an olive-green surface and is veined and spotted with bright carmine. The flowers are small and uninteresting.
A suitable soil mixture is composed of equal parts of peat, leaf mold, and sand, with ample drainage. Propagation is by cutting in sharp sand.
Kin to the bertolonias and requiring similar warm, humid conditions are the sonerilas (“son-er-ill-a”) from East India and South China. Grown for their exotic foliage, sonerilas tend to have crimson stems and toothed green leaves suffused with metallic-white markings.
Sonerila margaritacea, the favorite species, means “pearl” for the markings between the veins. Culture is the same as for bertolonii, except more drainage is desirable. Propagation is from stem cuttings and seeds.
Hoffmania Plants and Their Care
Handsome foliage characterizes the old stove plants of Hoffmannia, which are not fuzzy but surfaced like quilted taffeta.
Leaves 4” to 6” inches long on drooping stems give a full-skirted effect to these low-growing plants. Hoffmannias are effective under artificial light because of their iridescent reflections.
Hoffmannia refulgens grow about a foot or two in height. The long, oval leaves are dull green, tinged with red, intensifying at the edges, and a soft glowing red on the undersides.
The solitary pale red flowers are about an inch in size. Sandy peat soil suits all the species.
Philodendrons in the Limelight
Among the smooth-leaved house plants, one thinks instantly of philodendrons for interior use.
The fact that nobody doubts his ability to grow a philodendron contributes to the demand for these plants, and now many new and revived varieties are quickly accepted on the reputation of the tested kinds for survival under difficult conditions.
The popularity of philodendrons today is even greater than in stove-house days, and many more varieties are available.
Only a few of the nine mentioned in my old books are easy to obtain today —Philodendron gloriosum, P. melanochrysum (also called P. andreanum), and P. simsi.
But new species and hybrids are being introduced in the trade, and many formerly confined to a few specimen plants are now being produced in quantity for indoor gardeners.
Philodendron Guttiferum
Philodendron guttiferum, a new introduction from Costa Rica, has small, leathery foliage, and a single plant is ineffective.
But several plants on a totem are most artistic, and they grow rapidly. There are other climbers with larger leaves, some with deeply indented foliage, and one plant alone is sufficient.
This group includes P. auritum, P. crestifolium, P. hastatum and P. mandianum. These plants are as durable and satisfactory as house plants because their light requirements are low.
Only a few winning varieties, such as P. andreanum and P. verrucosum which demand high humidity, are reserved for greenhouse growing.
Philodendron enthusiasts have proclaimed a new day in house plants with the commercial introduction of non-climbing forms. This has been one objection to these otherwise satisfactory plants, for they become too tall in time for the location.
Now, some varieties do not climb, and hybrid climbers have such short joints that the increase in height is scarcely noticeable.
The self-heading philodendrons are as easy to grow as the climbers, and some of them can withstand even lower temperatures.
Philodendron Bipinnatifidum
Philodendron bipinnatifidum from South America resembles the climbing species P. dunnum, but its foliage is about twice the size. P. selloum is another self-heading, cut-leaf species that is distinctly tropical and decorative in appearance.
Not so deeply notched is a new hybrid of P. bipinnatifidum called P. forsterianum. Almost solid leaves are found on P. undulatum — large, wavy foliage that stands erect on strong stems.
Philodendron Wendlandii
P. wendlandii, which looks more like an elongated water hyacinth than a philodendron, has been crossed with an unnamed species to form P. Orlando, which is an extremely promising hybrid with graceful foliage having the shape but not the size of banana leaves.
All of the philodendrons should be watered thoroughly once a week and more often if the soil becomes completely dry. Mulching with peat or sphagnum moss will help retain moisture.
Foliage should be washed monthly to rid it of dust and keep the surface glossy, and liquid plant food should be applied at the same time.
A New Tradescantia
Also, making house-plant news is a tradescantia (spiderwort) that grows upright. Introduced in 1870 from Peru, Tradewantia reginae was named for the Queen of the Belgians. It is royal purple and green brushed with silver and holds its head up regally.
Another purple and green plant staging a comeback was introduced about that same time. This is Calathea lietzei from liraril. Mature leaves are about 6″ inches long, and mature plants are about a foot high.
The two-toned tops of the leaves are centered with artistic light etchings; the lavender is on the undersides.
Calatheas should be grown in full shade in a place suitable for ferns and repotted and divided in the summer. Warm temperatures are a must, the minimum being about 65° degrees Fahrenheit.
Calathea or Maranta
Often confused with the calatheas are time mammas that used to be known as “prayer plants” because the leaves fold up at night.
First introduced in the late 1880s, marantas are named for a Venetian botanist of the 10th century.
There is a difference of opinion among horticulturists regarding whether the “new” Calathea vandenheckei is not Maranatha vandenheckei.
At any rate, it is an attractive plant, having dark green leaves lined with silver or white down the center and the same color in jagged streaks at the edges.
The stems and undersides of the leaves are rich and wine-red. Marantas must have abundant water, heat, and humidity when growing but must be kept reasonably dry after growth is completed until repotted during spring.
A Dainty Palm
We know how popular palms were in the gay ’90s, and my mother tells the story of a friend in Maryland whose only house plant was a palm grown from a date seed that finally got so big it reached the parlor’s ceiling.
The modern version of this is the dwarf palm, Collinia elegans, which does not exceed three or four feet at maturity but gives the graceful effect for which palms were favored. It has the tolerance of shade and drainage characteristic of palms.
Modern house plants have come a long way from the jungle, from the stove house, and from the palm in the parlor.
No longer are these plant collector’s items only. They are part of our way of life, and the “revival” promises to continue well into the future.
44659 by Mary Noble