In the coastal areas of the Upper and Middle South, most perennials are planted during November and December.
But, when selecting subjects to plant now or nearer the end of the year, those who live in that part of the country must not dwell on the lovely illustrations of spring, summer, and fall borders printed in books and catalogs because so many of the hardy perennials shown in them are not at all satisfactory except for more northern gardens or southern gardens at higher altitudes.
Challenges of The Climate
Long, humid summers and mild, open winters, which prevent complete dormancy, are the rules in this section of the land. There are, moreover, periods (usually in July) when the sun comes out between showers and the earth’s streams.
At such times, even Hardy Candytuft is scalded by the hot steam baths, turning brown and unsightly and even dying.
Basket-of-gold (Alyssum saxatile), most hairy-leaved perennials, and those that make a close mat of foliage are frequently here today and gone tomorrow, for they may rot off at the crown with startling suddenness.
Indeed, though the climate of the southern coastal plains is suited to a wide variety of plants, comparatively few perennials listed in catalogs thrive here.
I learned this the hard way. Over 18 years, I tried almost all the plants mentioned in any “complete” perennial catalog in various Tidewater Virginia gardens.
I concluded that although tall spires of delphiniums and lupines, gorgeous Oriental poppies, dainty Japanese anemones, and others of cooler, less humid climates are not for the lowlands of the Upper and Middle South, quite charming borders of perennials can, nevertheless, be grown here if plants are chosen carefully.
Choosing Perennials Carefully
I do not suggest that numerous perennials be banished just because they are so exasperating at times. Candytuft, for instance, is almost indispensable in the spring garden and well worth replacing, if necessary, each fall.
I only suggest that a large measure of one’s success as a gardener depends on choosing plants that are suited to one’s soil and climate and, therefore, need a minimum of care.
List of Reliable Perennials
After trying various kinds and eliminating many, I have made a list of perennials that I consider to be most permanent and reliable in the coastal areas of the Upper and Middle South or wherever climatic conditions are similar.
Ground Phlox
Ground Phlox (P. subulata) makes brilliant sheets of white, pink, red, lavender, and blue in spring and is foolproof, as is the native Blue Phlox (P. divaricata). The latter requires yearly division as it multiplies rapidly into a large clump.
Fringed Bleeding-Heart
Fringed Bleeding-heart (Dicentra Spring border flowering with primroses, phlox, and daisy-like Leopards-Bane Salvia farinacea, Mealycup Sage (left), has violet-blue flowers; the variety alba has white.
Dicentra eximia, Fringed Bleeding-heart (right), produces a rose or pink blooms into the autumn eximia) is a favorite for, unlike its taller relative, it does not die down after spring but continues blooming throughout summer and fall.
In front of azaleas, in shaded borders, it makes a pretty pink and blue edging in spring when planted with the forget-me-not anchusa (A. myosotiflora).
Reason enough for growing it, however, is its dainty, feathery foliage, which stays fresh and green all summer and fall. Where the pine needle mulch is not too heavy to prevent it, Dicentra eximia self-sows.
To this group in the shade, one might add some of the yellow Cowslip (Primula veris) or the Polyanthus primrose (P. polyantha), but only if one is willing to syringe plants with water and dust them with sulfur frequently enough to check red spider in summer.
In sun or shade, as a ground cover, or in the perennial border, the little Roof Iris (I. tectorum) is delightful.
It grows about 9” inches high and has over inch-wide thin, ribbed leaves and widespread, crested lavender flowers speckled with purple. There is a rare white form, too, that many consider even more beautiful.
Irises
Most iris—bearded, spuria, Siberian, Japanese—are dependable. A long succession of blooms may be enjoyed with them alone!
But, the intermediate bearded iris, which blooms before the tall bearded ones (about tulip time), deserves special mention.
Coral Bells
Coral bells (Heuchera) are also fairly permanent when planted in lightly shaded spots. Their loose racemes of tiny, bell-shaped flowers in white through pink to deep crimson sway on slender stalks to add a light, airy touch of beauty.
Moreover, their close clusters of rounded, scalloped leaves remain evergreen most of the year, making a neat, attractive edging.
Speedwells
Most Speedwells, especially forms of Veronica spicata, do well. V. rupestris makes a low mat of brilliant blue for edging and as a ground cover in sun or light shade. Shasta Daisies are permanent if divided every year or so.
Coreopsis Golden Shower is a dainty addition, blooming off and on all summer if its faded flowers are snipped off. Though not suited to light, sandy soils, peonies will succeed if a rather heavy loam is provided to them. Surely, no plant is more permanent than they!
Daylilies
In summer especially, is it a relief to have plants that do not require the constant use of dust guns or sprayers? So, plant daylilies (Hemerocallis) in variety.
They bloom from May to early fall! North or South, no perennial equals them in general reliability. And modern varieties may be worked into any color scheme for there are yellows, oranges, purples, reds, and soft peach pinks.
Mealycup Sage
The Mealycup Sage (Salvia farinacea), grown as an annual in the North, is winter hardy in this area and tough as oak.
Plants from seeds sown in a cold frame in March will flower nicely in summer and fall. Their soft blue flower spikes blend with all colors and are particularly pleasing with orange and yellow daylilies.
Loosestrife
Loosestrife (Lythrum), most adaptable to varying conditions of soil and exposure, is also excellent for this climate.
While it is generally conceded to be a moisture-loving plant, succeeding in low places by pools and streams, it grows almost as well in a drier flower border with only such moisture as average perennials — peonies, Shasta Daisies — require.
It seems to thrive equally well in sun or partial shade but must be sprayed for the Japanese beetle in sections where this pest is prevalent.
Lythrums
The tall spikes of such newer Lythrums as the bright pink Brightness and deep phlox-pink Morden Pink have a better, clearer color than the older sorts, which have more of the purplish pink and magenta tones. But it’s best to keep all Lythrums away from bright orange and yellow daylilies.
Rather, they should be planted behind clumps of blue and white balloon flowers (Platycodon). If the spikes of Lythrum are cut off, as they fade, plants will continue blooming for many weeks.
And, if individual blossoms of the balloon flower are carefully snipped off with the point of the scissors, as they fade, others will appear at the base of the first.
When snipping is repeated several times, plants keep flowering for weeks. Be warned, though, that the Lythrum and Balloon-flower combination is only possible in a well-drained border because the roots of the latter are fleshy and require sharp drainage.
Centranthus
A good rule to follow is to give all fleshy-rooted plants very well-drained locations. The Centranthus (Valeriana coccinea) is one of these.
As it is of floppy growth, it is nice for banks and tops of walls, but it grows just as well in flat garden beds and even self-sows. The long-stemmed heads of rose-colored flowers are most attractive in the garden and arrangements.
Gerberas
Most people know Gerbera, commonly called African or Transvaal Daisy, as a florist’s cut flower. Its long-stemmed, daisy-like blooms—3” to 4” inches across—come in creamy white, yellow, apricot, salmon, orange-pink, and red and have wonderful keeping qualities.
Although not hardy in the North, the Gerbera is one of the choicest perennials for summer bloom in southern gardens.
Gerberas grow well in humid coastal areas if their special requirements are met. Chief of these is good drainage.
For this reason, some growers set plants in raised beds. As is the case with all plants that have a dense cluster of foliage about their crown, the rotting of the crown must be guarded against in wet weather.
Planting Gerberas too deep and covering their crowns with soil is a frequent cause of failure. Rather, a shallow planting that exposes the crown is, therefore, advised. A moderately rich, sandy loam of slightly acidic reaction is ideal.
Rudbeckias
For summer to bloom in dry, sunny borders, one can depend on any of the Rudbeckias.
Summer phlox, too, is well worth growing, although precautions must be taken to guard it against red spiders, especially where air circulation is poor.
Leadwort
In late summer, Leadwort (Plumbago larpentiae) makes a brilliant blue edging or ground cover in sun or semi-shade, and, in the shade, the various Plantain-lilies (Hosta) make a beautiful summer border.
Hostas
Varieties differ in the size of foliage and bloom, but all Hostas have heavy clumps of basal leaves and clusters of lily-like flowers, white or shades of blue and lavender. Hosta foliage loses its ornamental beauty in the sun.
Bulbous Plants and Variety in Design
Hardy Begonia
A nice companion for Plantain Lilies is the hardy begonia (B. evansiana). Established plantings of this bulbous perennial multiply rapidly by seeds and offsets.
The leaves of this begonia, red on the underside, are most decorative, and the gracefully drooping racemes of pink flowers are beautiful from midsummer to frost.
For early fall bloom in a sunny border, the Heleniums are suitable and, among asters, such of the novae-angliae type as Harrington’s Pink and Survivor do well if divided each spring.
Chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums are, of course, indispensable for fall display in the garden and cutting.
However, it has been my experience that the very early flowering varieties that try to bloom while the weather is too warm are unsatisfactory. Varieties listed as blooming in October and November are a better choice.
Butterfly Lily
Catalogs of hardy perennials do not mention the Ginger or Butterfly Lily (Hedychium coronarium), for it is not hardy north of southern Virginia and there only along the coast.
This native of Asia, however, has been naturalized extensively in southern California, Florida, Hawaii, and the Bahama Islands, and plants of it may be obtained from southern or California dealers.
The Ginger-lily is not killed to the ground each winter in the Tropics as it is in the Upper and Mid-South. Here, it sends up sprouts from thick, underground root stalks in late April or May.
These grow, in one season, to become lush plants 5 or more feet tall, which produce fresh flowers that open every morning and evening to replace those that have wilted in the hot sun.
The flowers are large, white, and orchid-like. They fill the air with a spicy fragrance from early fall to frost.
Ginger-lily grows in sun or semi-shade, but its blossoms last longer in semi-shade. Since ample moisture and rich soil are essential to its lush growth, and warmth and humidity are necessary before it flowers, it is no wonder it thrives in this part of the South.
Plants should be left undisturbed and only lifted and divided when the root stalks spread out of their allotted space.
The winter-flowering Iris unguicularis (I. stylosa, I. cretensis) because it is in flower from November to mid-March except when the weather is extremely severe, may be said to both end and begin the garden season.
Planted in light, sandy soil in sun or semi-shade, it requires nothing but to be left alone to send up above thick dumps of grassy foliage, its fragrant, lavender-blue blossoms with yellow crests.
Conclusion
Besides these, there are other perennials suited to the coastal areas of the Upper and Middle South, and there is sufficient variety among them, especially when supplemented with the many bulbous plants that thrive under the same conditions as, to permit great variety in planting designs.
With them, the gardener can create a picture that expresses his originality and has a beauty that comes from vigorous, healthy plants suited to their locations.
As mentioned earlier, because growth starts early and springs quickly slip into summer in the lowlands of the South, November and December are the planting months for most perennials. However, there are exceptions.
Chrysanthemums, Hedychium, Gerberas, Asters, and Heleniums are better planted in the earliest spring, usually March. Daylilies may be planted anytime through early fall is preferable.
44659 by Gisela Grimm