Are you looking for new lawn grass? Would you like to see the new models? All right. Come with me.
Since your home is in the South, I won’t waste your time by showing you the northern models.
People keep trying to use them—red top, bents, fescues, and others — but in most of the South, they’re as unhappy as penguins in the Sahara Desert.
Northern Grasses
They don’t last long. Maybe you’ve already learned the hard way that these northern grasses, and lawn mixtures carrying them, just don’t belong in Dixie.
You still have a number to choose from, but to help you make the choice, we’ve prepared a chart showing some of their requirements.
Study this chart, remembering that for best results the grass must fit the environment.
Best Choice Of Grass
Suppose you live south of Birmingham. Forget about bluegrass. Even the new Merion will be inferior to other grasses listed.
There are several trees on your lawn, but the shade is not heavy. Zoysia and St. Augustine would be your best choices, but carpet and centipede could also be used.
You say the soil is well-drained and very sandy, tending to get very dry when rainfall is short.
Cross off carpet grass unless you can water in dry periods. Be prepared to use a little extra fertilizer if you decide on Zoysia or St. Augustine.
You won’t have much time to give your lawn? Then centipede grass is probably your best choice.
You’re looking for grass that will be green the year around? So are we, but we haven’t found it yet.
Grasses that do well in the summer turn brown after the first freeze, and those that stay green in the winter turn brown and usually die when summer comes.
Zoysia Matrella
Zoysia matrella will tolerate more frost than other summer-growing grasses, but frosts around 26° Fahrenheit also turn it brown.
If you must have a green lawn the year around, plant domestic (Italian) ryegrass in your summer grass each fall, Broadcast ryegrass seed evenly, and work it down in contact with the soil.
Way To Hasten Germination
Water to hasten germination, fertilize freely and mow regularly for best results.
Oh, yes – the new models. So if you live in the Bluegrass belt, give Merion bluegrass a try. Its disease resistance and superior turf qualities make it a good buy, even though the seed costs more.
If your lot and your needs call for a Bermuda grass lawn, Tilton 57 Bermuda deserves your attention.
Frequent Fertilization
Remember the lot must be sunny and well-drained, and frequent fertilization will be necessary if the soil is not fertile.
Few types of grass will stand as much wear as Bermuda grass and, as a grass to grow in association with ryegrass for year-round green lawns, unsurpassed.
Tifton 57 makes a greener, denser, more beautiful turf than common Bermuda and recovers much faster when overseeded with ryegrass.
Centipede Grass
Although it must be established from sprigs, its rapid rate of spread permits wide spacing and keeps establishment costs low.
More seeds of centipede grass will be on the market, making it possible to cut costs. This will be good news to the city dweller who wants a lawn requiring minimum care.
However, Centipede grass cannot be recommended for farm lawns because it will eventually get into pastures and make them worthless.
Zoysia Japonica
Limited quantities of Zoysia japonica seed will be available in 1953. You can save money using it, but don’t expect it to be as fine as your neighbor’s Zoysia matrella lawn.
Japonica is much coarser grass and is less frost tolerant. So if you want Z. matrella, the queen of southern lawn grasses, you’ll have to sprig it.
Sprigging the slow-spreading Zoysia matrella 6” inches apart is expensive but represents a good investment if you want the best.
Dream Grasses
There will be others, some good, some bad. Every spring, new “dream grasses” reported doing all of the things homeowners have ever asked of lawn grasses make the headlines.
But unless you wish to make an experiment station of your lawn and are willing to risk failure, you will do well to use those grasses that have stood tile test of time.
Good Complete Fertilizer
Remember, the best grass in the world will fail without proper care. Most southern soils require five to ten pounds of a good complete fertilizer, such as 4-8-8 per 1,000 square feet, early every spring.
One or more applications of a nitrogen fertilizer, such as nitrate of soda (two to four pounds per 1,000 square feet).
Milorganite or cottonseed meal (five to ten pounds per 1,000 square feet) made during the summer will improve the color, thicken the stand, and help crowd out weeds.
Apply fertilizer when the grass is dry and water it in to prevent burning.
Regular and frequent mowing increases sod density, discourages weeds, and makes any lawn grass more beautiful.
Southern Turf Grasses
Southern turf grasses, except for bluegrass, should be mowed at the height of approximately 1” inch.
Mow frequently enough that clippings can be allowed to fall without smothering the grass.
Every week to 10 days is best in midsummer when growing conditions are optimum.
Water thoroughly when evidence of wilting is apparent. Check the amount of water your sprinkler puts out by placing an empty can in the watered area.
St. Augustine Grass
Don’t move the sprinkler until there’s at least ½” an inch of water in the can. Then, don’t water again until the grass shows evidence of wilting.
Chlordane will control chinch bugs on St. Augustine grass, sod webworm, and many other turf insects. Toxaphene is more effective as an armyworm control.
If your lawn begins to show unexplainable signs of dying, consult your county agent. He can supply or obtain the assistance you need.
Remember, a good lawn, like good health, is easier to keep titan to recover, once lost.
44659 by Glenn W. Burton