Since George Russell’s work in Yorkshire with Lupinus polyphyllus, which he crossed with other lupins, created the magnificent new strain that now bears his name, and the lupin ranks with the delphinium and Michaelmas daisy as a mainstay of English gardens.
It should become almost as well known in American gardens as its virtues are discovered.
The 3- to 5-foot lupin speaks with authority in the garden in early June when borders lack tall accents.
Colors of Lupin
Flowering on through July and sometimes later, these tall, beautifully foliaged plants exhibit all the colors of the spectrum:
- Red
- Yellow
- Orange
- Pink
- Blue
- Lavender
- White and delicate combinations
The individual pea-like flowers may be one color or beautiful blends and bicolors.
Easiest Perennials in Cultivation
Although considered by some a difficult plant to grow, lupin is one of the easiest perennials in cultivation.
Ideally, it needs a cool and moist climate, much like England’s. But even where the summers are hot and dry, the lupin can still be grown with a little effort.
Most people don’t know that the seed is very hard-shelled and should be notched with a knife or file to expedite germination.
Germination of Fresh Seeds
Some gardeners also inoculate the seed with nitrogen-fixing bacteria.
Well-watered, the fresh seed germinates within a week-and-a-half, and the germination percentage is high.
The seed can be sown where the plants are to be permanently located or sown in rows and transplanted later.
Transplanting Of Lupins
Transplanting may be done as soon as a few leaves appear, or you can wait until fall.
Ample earth should be taken with the young plants, and the holes should be dug deep enough to accommodate the long, brittle carrot-like roots.
In any case, transplanting should occur before the plants are one year old. Mature plants resent being moved, and some of them may die as a result of transplanting.
Although short-lived in alkaline or neutral soils, the lupin will flourish in acid soils.
Preparation of Soil
The soil should be well prepared and placed with superphosphate or bonemeal, decayed manure, and compost. Plant in full sun or partial shade and space 2 ½’ to 3’ feet apart.
Set the plants individually or in small groups throughout the garden with interplanting of phlox and early mums, or annuals, to prepare for late summer when the lupins do not flower.
In spring, limit the plants to five shoots, cutting out all the weaker members. This will result in stronger plants with larger flowers.
Water For Lupins
Water is a must with lupins, and the plants respond enthusiastically to mulching. Drooping leaves are always a signal that the plants need moisture.
Letting the hose run gently at the bases of the plants to provide a good soaking will perk them up by the next day.
While the stalks and flower spikes are strong, they sometimes “snake” from high winds and driving rains.
Staking Lupins
Once the stems have assumed bent and curved shapes, they do not straighten out. Therefore, it is a good policy to stake the plants.
If only the flowering portion of the flower spikes is removed after bloom, second spires will often be sent up.
As A Cut Flower
As a cut flower, the lupin is wonderful. However, one word of caution. When cutting the flowers, plunge them into the water on the spot and never allow them to lie on their sides out of the water.
Cuttings are taken early in April, root in one month in a cold frame. Make them 3” to 4” inches long and take part of the crown of the plant with them.
Rooting Hormones And Methods
Rooting hormones may be used to encourage the cuttings to sprout faster.
Another method is to take the cat-o’-nine-tail roots and cut them into three-inch lengths, inserting them in pots of sandy compost and keeping them moist.
As some plants occasionally die with the passing of the years, it is a good idea to have a few young plants coming along each year to fill bare spots.
Extra plants can be kept in the cutting garden.
44659 by R. W. Almquist