Years ago, I recall listening to several of our town characters philosophizing on the general weaknesses of man. One particular fellow made the statement that every man had a weakness.
His theory was regardless of how good he was, every man would have some habit or weakness over which he had no apparent control.
I certainly know mine—it is a hybrid amaryllis. In my opinion, no flower adapts itself to growing in pots or on the ground to equal this majestic beauty.
My taste for these flowers increased tremendously after I saw my first Dutch bloom. To me, there is nothing as beautiful as one of these magnificent flowers, some 8, 9, or 10 inches in diameter.
I will never forget the first time I saw ‘Red Master’ in all its glory. This certainly was a lovely sight.
Of course, I have had the same thrill many times over on seeing others. For instance, when I first saw ‘Ludwig’s Dazzler’, I did not believe anything could be so beautiful. Then came ‘Miss Margaret Truman.’
I first saw this flower growing in a friend’s yard. It was on a spike approximately 30″ inches tall, with all four 8-inch blooms open at one time. What a sight!
Everyone passing along the street would stop and admire this flower even though it was growing some 50′ or 60′ feet back from the road.
Later, as I saw others bloom, it was the same story; ‘Pink Perfection,’ ‘Scarlet Beauty,’ ‘Queen Superiora,’ ‘Joan of Arc,’ and others, all masterpieces of their respective size, color, and shape.
First Experience With Amaryllis
My first experience in growing amaryllis was with the Mead strain. Of course, like everyone, I cross-pollinated, planted some seeds, and three years later saw my first seedlings come into bloom. Out of many seedlings, I found two or three that I selected for propagation.
The others, I gave to neighbors and friends. Later, I purchased some unnamed Dutch seedlings and a few named varieties of both the Warmenhoven and Ludwig strains, and my interest grew.
Some of my seedlings have now bloomed. Watching a bud develop and then open has certainly been a thrill. This thrill is like that experienced by a young child opening a birthday present. He doesn’t know what it is but knows it will be good.
Yes, some of these seedlings were just ordinary flowers. Some were equal to the best, and once in a while, you would find one that was even better than the others. This, of course, is expected because one always thinks his children are superior.
Dutch Bulbs vs. Mead Bulbs
Before I purchased my Dutch bulbs, I had read and heard that they did not grow well in this country, no doubt because they are grown in greenhouses.
However, my experience has proved that the Dutch bulbs are just as hardy as our Meads.
They will grow indoors in pots or outdoors in the ground. We of the lower South know that after amaryllis is established, it can take care of itself regardless of whether it is fertilized or left alone; come spring, two or three spikes will appear and start developing their gorgeous flowers.
Failures in Amaryllis Growth
From my own experience, most failures in the growth of amaryllis are due to maltreatment.
If these bulbs are planted in neutral, well-drained porous soil and moderately fertilized, one should have no difficulty whatsoever in growing them.
However, amaryllis is a very shallow-rooted plant. It should not be planted too deep, although I have planted them in the ground with at least 4” inches of soil over the bulbs, and they have continued to grow and bloom satisfactorily.
Growing Amaryllis in Pots
Some individuals have had difficulty growing amaryllis in pots. If clay pots are used, they should be plugged into the ground during the growing season, for the rapid evaporation of moisture from the pot will cause an accumulation of fertilizer salts on the sides of the pot that may burn the roots.
The amount of moisture also may be controlled better when the pots are surrounded by soil. Do not use a pot that is too small. I prefer one of 8” inches and the shallow type.
When potting amaryllis, be certain that every effort is made to have a good growing medium. This soil should allow the entrance of air and give good drainage. In preparing each pot, I place about 1″ inch of pebbles, broken pottery, or shells in the bottom.
The remainder of the pot is filled with a mixture of well-rotted compost and coarse sand mixed in the proportions of two-thirds compost and one-third sand.
To each pot is added one-third of a cup of dolomite (finely ground limestone), a handful of bone meal, and a handful of the following mixtures: one part superphosphate, one-half part muriatic of potash, and two parts fish meal.
This is all mixed in the potting soil and has proved very satisfactory. Each fall, two tablespoons of the mixture of superphosphate, muriate of potash, and fish meal are placed in each pot.
Propagation Method
Amaryllis are propagated in three ways. First, there is the method of offsets. These small bulbs grow off the mother bulb’s basal plate. They should be removed and replanted after they have established their roots.
This is usually about five months after the leaves show on the offset. Propagation by seed involves placing pollen on the stigma after it is “ripe.” This is usually about four or five days after the flower opens.
When ready for pollination, the stigma will be composed of three parts about ⅛-inch long and shaped like the letter Y.
Soon after pollination, the flower will wilt, and the ovary (seed capsule) will begin to swell. When the seeds reach maturity, this capsule will split, exposing the closely packed dark brown seeds.
Yes, those flat black or dark brown objects that look like tissue paper are seeds. They should be planted like tomato seeds; after the flats are prepared, sprinkle the seed over the surface of the soil, cover lightly with fine soil, and keep moist.
After they grow, give them partial shade and transplant them after they have three straps (leaves.)
Bulbs from seed do not come true. They may be somewhat similar but will not be exactly like the parents.
Cottage Method
The cottage method is the technique that is used to reproduce exact duplicates of a particular bulb. The mother bulb chosen should be a firm, healthy, mature bulb.
The bulb is then cut into approximately 16 segments, with the cutting being made from the neck of the bulb down (lengthwise) through the basal plate.
Each segment can then be cut into two or three parts. Make certain, however, that each part has at least a portion of the basal plate and at least two sections of the scales.
These sections should then be planted in the builder’s sand, basal plate down, and about one-half of the section exposed to the light. Keep damp. In about six weeks, small bulblets will begin to form.
As soon as the bulblet leaves are about 2″ inches long, feed every two weeks with one of the soluble plant foods. These bulblets may be transplanted after they show two leaves.
Do not remove the old bulb section from the young bulb. It will eventually be consumed by the young bulblet and disappear entirely.
Ideal Amaryllis Characteristics
There are many different ideas as to what is good amaryllis. I would like to express my opinion on the perfect type.
First, I think the bulb should be vigorous, one that grows well, has a good root system and can get along without too much attention. Two, I prefer the bulb with dark green straps over the lighter ones.
Second, I like a good, straight, sturdy spike that has enough substance to hold the flowers. (One often has to use a rod or wire stake to hold the spike upright.)
Third, the flower should have broad overlapping petals with rounded tips. The tongue (lower) petal should be broad and curve backward.
The throat should be shallow and open. This will give one a flower shape, somewhat like a pansy, round, broad, overlapping petals with a shallow throat. I also think the ideal size of a flower is from 7” to 9” inches.
Fourth, color—with a well-shaped flower, you will probably find the color is a minor consideration, except for a green throat in the reds.
Some of the pinks and bi-colors are beautiful flowers, even though they may have light green in their throats.
Considerations When Purchasing Bulbs
When purchasing amaryllis bulbs, one should remember that “one gets what he pays for.” Hybrid amaryllis bulbs of the type that give the best flowers are usually the named varieties produced by several bulb growers in Holland.
All these named bulbs are reproductions of one particular bulb selected for outstanding flowers.
Named varieties (after being on the market for several years) usually cost five to eight dollars each. This is a lot for one bulb, but remember, with good care, it will continue to grow and produce flowers for years. And each year, you should be able to get from one to two offsets.
Tips For Successful Amaryllis Growing
Here are some suggestions one should follow in growing amaryllis. Purchase bulbs of 3″ inches or larger; get them planted as early as possible (October or November); plant only where there is good drainage.
Do not overwater; follow the instructions usually furnished with good bulbs.
44659 by John T. Weisner