I’m giving my method of starting rose cuttings in answer to the inquiry I read in a magazine. I’ve used this method for many years with success.
How I Start Rose Cuttings
In late October or early November, I fix a little bed under some shrub where it will be protected from winter winds and weather changes of summer heat or changes in late fall or early spring.
Potting Soil: I mix sand well into the soil, and then I put pure sand into each hole where I will put a stem of the cutting.
Taking Rose Cuttings: Using pruning shears, I chose a stem cutting 6″ to 8″ inches long with a heel (the nobe end joining the main limb). Then, I plant in the hole of sand to a depth of about half its length, firm the soil around and water, and turn a glass jar over each cutting when planted.
I water well, and if it is a dry fall, I continue to water the roses occasionally to keep the soil moist till there is rain.
Now They Are All Fixed For The Winter
Just watch that the jars do not get turned over or knocked off. In spring, when new growth is well established and good leaves on the cuttings under the glass, I begin hardening them off, by removing the jars a short time every day or so, starting on cloudy or rainy days, or leaving the jar off at night, putting it back on if the cutting wilts.
After several times this, the cutting should be hardened well enough to leave uncovered. I prefer to let them grow in this place the first summer.
By the next spring, they are nice rose plants to set in the rose bed or wherever one may choose.
Many lose cuttings by leaving the glass too long before starting to harden them, and the leaves scald against the glass or keep the jar off too long when they wilt before they are hardened well enough.
I also start many cuttings of different shrubs, perennials, and evergreens by this same method.
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