With warm weather still here and the flurry of spring planting long over, there is time to relax and enjoy the results of our labors in the garden.
Annuals set out in the spring are still blooming merrily, and the lawn is cool and green beneath the lush foliage of the trees.
Far be it from me to disturb these idyllic musings, but fall is just around the corner, and after fall-winter.
Planting Windbreak To Reduce Heat Bills
How were your fuel bills last winter? And how about the snow? High fuel bills and back-breaking snowdrifts need not be an inevitable part of winter if you plant a windbreak this fall.
Statistics indicate a properly placed windbreak can reduce heat bills considerably (up to 30% in the Midwest) and that a well-positioned row of trees can be a valuable aid in eliminating snow drifts. Certainly, it is rewarding to establish a planting that is both pleasing and functional.
A windbreak should be placed at right angles to the prevailing winter winds. The planting should be larger than the space you want to protect and should be located 35’ to 40′ feet from the house and driveway to protect them from snowdrifts.
Evergreen Trees As Effective Windbreak
Two to four rows of evergreen trees are considered the most effective windbreak. Because most evergreens grow slowly, a tight row of shrubs should be planted on the windward side to protect the evergreens and give them a chance to get established.
Staggered rows of shrubs, evergreens, and deciduous trees planted in a gently curving mass will also give quick protection at a reasonable cost.
The tallest growing material should be planted in the center rows. On small properties, use one or two rows of shrubs and small trees. Prune shrubs to keep them thick and bushy.
Windbreak Material
Windbreak material is always spaced close together. Trees are planted 6’ to 8′ feet apart, and the rows are 8’ to 12′ feet apart.
Shrubs are placed 4′ from one another in rows 6′ from center to center. Choose locally grown stock to ensure maximum hardiness.
Planting Windbreak
Take the trouble to do a good job when you plant your windbreak since plants will be exposed to brutal conditions and need a good start.
Dig the hole at least 6″ larger than the root ball, and place the topsoil in one pile and the subsoil in another.
Stir the soil at the bottom of each hole and incorporate peat moss or humus into it. Evergreens should be set no deeper than they were in the nursery, while deciduous trees may be planted an inch lower.
Fill in around the ball with topsoil, tamping occasionally to fill air pockets and ensure close contact between the root ball and the topsoil. Use subsoil on the top if it is needed to finish filling the hole.
Burlap need not be removed as it will rot in a short time. Water thoroughly after planting.
Tending Windbreak
Tend the windbreak carefully until firmly established and supply adequate water during the first two summers.
Mulch the whole area heavily. Shrubs will need pruning to make them dense, and dead and diseased branches should be removed from trees.
Cut out any deciduous material that was intended to act as a temporary filler when conditions become crowded. It will take three to seven years until the crowns of the trees begin to merge.
A windbreak is a handsome addition to any property, and its beneficial effect will be noticed during the first winter.
44659 by Mrs. Francis T. P. Plimpton Jr.