Some gardeners like rose-of-Sharon and those who do not.
The latter complain that its foliage does not appear until quite late in spring and is not exceptional in fall.
The heavy seed capsules, unless cut off, weigh the branches down unattractively.
Self-sown seedlings, they point out, are a nuisance and do not produce plants identical to the parent.
Their case against the rose of Sharon, or shrub-althea as it is also called, is a strong one.
Those who like the rose of Sharon have a good case, too, and they can see no reason not to perpetuate it in their gardens.
The Rose Of Sharon’s Features
Brought to Europe over 200 years ago from China and India, it was introduced into this country in the late 18th century.
A plant or two of their own recalls old specimens seen in French or English gardens or at the door of a childhood home.
Their faces brighten when they speak of the plant’s real feature—hollyhock-like flowers, white and delicate pinks, purples, and blues, depending upon the variety, that appears in August and September when few other trees or shrubs think of flowering.
Elizabeth Saltonstall’s lithograph (opposite) marks her as a lover of the rose-of-Sharon, for she has captured its nostalgic charm most sympathetically.
Botanically, Hibiscus syriacus, the rose of Sharon, is a relative of the Chinese hibiscus whose flowers are identified with Hawaiian princesses and Florida and California beauty queens.
While certainly less spectacular in flower, the rose-of-Sharon is hardy over most of the United States.
It grows naturally as a shrub and may be trained to a single-stemmed tree or clipped to hedge form or topiary accent.
Growth And Maintenance
Shearing or pruning is done after flowering in fall or, especially in cold climates, in spring so that any winter-killed tips are removed.
Its upright branches make it taller than wide, with some plants reaching as high as 15’ feet.
Although the rather columnar growth makes it an unlikely subject for massing in a shrub border, it lends interesting contrast when planted in front of more open-growing shrubs and trees.
Because it does not throw a dense shadow, it has been used quite successfully as a sentinel in flower borders.
A neutral garden soil suits it well—neither wet nor dry. Give it at least half a day of full sun.
Planted in late fall or early spring, putting on the foliage the first year may be slow. In the coldest sections, winter protection is advisable the first winter after planting.
Single And Double Varieties
There are wide single and double varieties from which to choose.
Here are a few good ones, and there are many more.
- ANEMONIFOLIUS—White with a dark center, semi-double
- COELESTIS—violet-blue, single
- H. Harnabo—blush pink, single
- JEANNE D’ARC—white, double
One nursery offers a plant on which red, white, and blue varieties have been grafted—definitely, as they say, a conversation piece.
44659 by John R. Rebhan