Mulching Be sure plants are completely dormant and the soil frozen to a depth of at least 2″ inches before applying mulches. Wind and sun do more harm than cold. Screen your evergreens wherever practical, especially your flowering kinds: Camellia Azalea Rhododendron Remember also that good drainage in the soil is the most essential item … Read more
Get Ready for Winter By November first, either we’ve had “it,” or we are waiting for “it.” “It,” of course, is the first hard freeze. One fact we do know – we never escape November without a freeze. If delayed, it is usually harder than if it comes early. Now is an excellent time to … Read more
Lawns Keep mowing as long as the grass keeps growing. If you haven’t yet spread fertilizer, there is still time to do so. A well-fertilized lawn will stay green all winter. Run the leaf mulcher through the fallen leaves two or three times to ensure they are finely chopped and thinly spread; otherwise, rake them … Read more
Autumn color Sometimes, trees in the Southwest lack fall color, but this is only true where no provision is made in the garden for plants with bright autumn hues. Sweet gum, Liquidambar styraciflua, is a blaze of color every year. Leaves turn a mottled red-yellow, and orange color that puts a maple to shame. Ginkgo, … Read more
Fall Lawns This is a good time to kill next year’s crop of common chickweed, Poa annua, and crabgrass. First, apply a pre-emergence crabgrass control after October 15. This will kill tiny seedlings of winter annuals like Poa annua and common chickweed (now germinating), and next spring will work equally well on crabgrass. Fall-seeded lawns … Read more