Quick Tips on Starting a Lawn In September

A lawn can be grown on almost any soil that is available—so long as it is thoroughly prepared before seeding. Be sure to incorporate ample organic matter such as compost, peat moss, leaf mold or rotted manure, or whatever materials are available locally.

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Work this thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6” to 8” inches by spading, tilling, or plowing. Also, turn under the old grass, crabgrass, and weeds—these will decompose in time and add even more organic matter to the soil.

Fertilization

Before seeding and for subsequent feedings after the lawn is up, use a plant food that is high in nitrogen. These are made especially for lawns. Apply dry fertilizer at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet. This should be raked into the upper 2” inches, usually while the final grading is being done.

Seed Selection

The type of seed to plant will be determined by the use you have planned for the lawn. If it is to be a play area with much traffic, use a seed mixture so designated.

Seed Sowing

The amount of seed needed to cover a specific area will be governed by the type of seed selected. Generally, the better grades will cover a larger area per pound than the general or utility kinds.

The amount of coverage is marked on each package of seed. One brand of grass seed is now sold in packages to cover a specific area-100, 200, 500, or 1,000 square feet—rather than in pounds.

Watering

The sail should be kept moist while the seed is germinating and after the young grass plants have emerged. Be sure to use a sprinkler or nozzle that gives a very fine mist-like spray.

Mowing

Set your mower to cut as high as possible for the first mowing. Also, be sure that the blade is sharp as a dull blade will rip and tear young seedlings out of the ground. Mow as often as necessary and keep mowing until growth stops in late fall.

Make sure that the grass doesn’t go through winter unmowed as it may tend to mat under winter snows and rains.

44659 by W.L.M.