Lawn watering, we all agree, is necessary. But the question arises about how much water and how often it should be applied.
There are several theories on the subject—each well founded on experience and testing.
Different Theories On Lawn Watering
Robert Schery, Director of the Lawn Institute, in his remarks at the June Convention of the Men’s Garden Clubs of America, said:
“At one extreme, it (lawn watering) is essential for survival or greenness during dry periods; at the other extreme, it causes more harm than good.
The watering schedule should conform to the climate and soil and the homeowner’s taste—reflecting a willingness to bear the expense or unwillingness to put up with the brown grass.
Grasses once managed intensively may die if watering suddenly ceases, but well-established stands of the sturdier lawn species take drought well.”
On the other hand, Dr. Joseph Howland of O. M. Scott & Sons writes in Lawn Care as follows: “In our experience, providing adequate water without an overabundance calls for moisture additions two or three times a week in the sandier, faster-draining soils; once or twice a week in the heavier soils. As a rule of thumb, we suggest an inch or so of water each time. This means leaving the sprinkler in one place for 15 to 30 minutes.
“It is not feasible to set up a specific watering program for grass because the water needs are affected by exposure to sun and wind, humidity degree and direction of slope, kind of grasses, the height of cut—and perhaps most important, degree of greenness desired. Grass can adapt itself to weeks of drought—but always with a loss of color.
“If you wish to be kind to your grass, and you can water it, don’t wait until it shows signs of wilting.
By then, it has suffered an injury.” So we leave it to you to decide whether you water heavily when the lawn needs it or lightly on a frequent schedule.
New Or Used Mower?
When buying a new power mower, one of the first things to consider is whether you want a rotary or reel. Better than four out of five people pick the rotary.
It has its advantages—and disadvantages. On the “pro” side, it is much less expensive.
A rotary can cut rough grass and weeds and can be adjusted to cut grass fairly high. In addition, a leaf-mulching attachment is available for most brands to chop up the fall accumulation of leaves.
On the other hand, a reel mower is preferred by many gardeners because of the cut. It is a scissor action, and there is little or no chance of the tips of the grass blades browning, as is often the case when a lawn is mowed with a rotary having a dull blade.
Also, many feel that the life of a reel mower is longer than that of a rotary, but this depends greatly on how the machine was used or abused.
Two million homeowners are expected to be trading in lawnmowers this year. This means that many used mowers will be offered for sale.
Check The Machine’s Condition
When buying a used mower, first look at the general condition of the machine—look especially for dents, cracks, and other signs of excessive wear.
Try to answer the question, “Why was this machine turned in?”
Examine the condition of the blades. Look again for any dents or cracks that would indicate any abuse. Ensure that the setting is correct on reel mowers—that the reel blades touch all along the edge of the base blade.
On rotary mowers, the blade is inexpensive, and the best thing to do is to replace it—most reputable dealers would put on a new blade even before selling the machine.
Next, check the engine. An engine that is in excellent order will start with two or three pulls on the starter rope.
Pull the starter rope slowly through two or three cycles to check the compression. If compression is okay, it will resist your pupil.
You can also check for a good spark by removing the plug wire, holding it close to the terminal, and pulling through several cycles. A good spark is lively and bluish.
Pre-Emergence Report
Did you use a pre-emergent crabgrass control last fall or this spring?
Some of Flower Grower’s editors tried several different brands—some applied last fall, the rest this spring. So far, the treated areas in all cases have shown excellent control.
One of our big questions regarding its use—as undoubtedly many gardeners have had—was how soon after application, new grass could be sown.
We noticed that the time range varied greatly with the product and manufacturer.
We followed the tip given by Barbara Emerson of Amchem, who said that when in doubt, scrape off a little surface soil and put it into a pot.
Then sow radish seed. If the seed germinates, you know it is safe to plant grass seed. If the seed fails to come through, you know it will be a waste of time, money, and seed to sow new grass, as it, too, will not germinate.
We know that pre-emergent crabgrass killers do not function the same in all parts of the country. R. Milton Carleton, lawn expert from Vaughan’s Seed Co., who will be writing about fall lawn care and feeding in the September Flower Grower, would like to get reports from gardeners on their experience with pre-emergence killers this year.
If you used a pre-emergent crabgrass killer, he would appreciate hearing what percentage of control you had, whether you are satisfied, and whether you will use the material again.
Please state either the brand or ingredient of the product used (both if you can) and the date application was made.
Send your report directly to R. Milton Carleton, 322 N. Garfield Avenue, Hinsdale, Illinois. Then, in a fall issue, Mr. Carleton will summarize his findings.
Toadstools and Moss
Toadstools or mushrooms on a lawn are always associated with wet weather. When they appear, it is an indication that there is an excess of decaying organic matter in the soil.
This could be buried leaf mold or mulch put there by the gardener, but more likely, it is an old stump, tree root, or trash.
These toadstools or mushrooms do no real harm to the lawn or garden, but they are unsightly. In most cases, they will die out and disappear after a few warm, dry, sunny days.
The presence of moss on the soil indicates poor drainage and/or low fertility. The poor drainage may be due to a depression in the lawn or compacted soil.
If this is the cause of moss, the surface should be regraded or the soil loosened by aerifying with an aerifyer, fork, or rake. An application of fertilizer should be made in all cases.
44659 by William L. Meachem