Many people sincerely believe that evergreens require the same type of winter protection as we do, so with all good intentions, they dress them in everything but scarves, caps, and mittens.
They do not consider that plants are innocent of body warmth and remain as cold as the air about them despite the coverings and that such protections —applied with this wrong notion— may smother an otherwise hardy plant.
Protecting Evergreens From Winter Elements
Let’s first decide from what we are guarding them. Contrary to belief, evergreens do not mind low temperatures, but they suffer from moisture loss, severe winter winds, heavy snow and sleet on their branches, and—believe it or not—rodents!
So, before the first snowflake falls, we delve into each of these categories and discuss the reasons for protection and the simple methods of accomplishing it.
Methods For Preventing Moisture Loss
As you may know, an evergreen’s respiratory system is not unlike the tiniest violet and the tallest oak. That is, it takes moisture from the soil and discards it through the leaves. And because evergreens keep their leaves during the winter, they continue to lose water by evaporation through them.
Then, if they are exposed to excess wind and winter sun, they lose moisture. The result? “Winter burn!”
An excellent safeguard against this is a covering of burlap stretched on a wire frame over the entire plant but beyond the reach of all branches.
Of course, this solves the problem of excess water loss through the leaves, but it doesn’t completely stop the discarding of moisture—nor would we want it to. So, our job is to supply the roots with sufficient water to carry them through the winter.
Choosing The Right Winter Mulch
Simply supply the soil with adequate water every week. Then, after the ground freezes at least 6” inches deep—generally after mid-December—apply winter mulch to help the soil retain its moisture.
An application of a specially formulated synthetic latex sprayed on foliage in December will reduce moisture loss through transpiration.
Snow provides the best mulch, but unfortunately, it is only effective when it arrives early and stays all winter. So, if you live in a locale where snow is not a steady visitor, supplying your mulch is wiser.
You’ll find that evergreen boughs, oak leaves, peat moss, and grass cuttings are all cozy mulches if applied to the ground in a three-inch layer and spread beyond the root spread.
Protecting Evergreens From Strong Winds
If you live in an extremely exposed area where winds keep your weather cocks twirling, your tall, slender evergreens—as well as your foundation plantings — will be whipping posts for winter’s icy gales.
Correcting The Shape of Oblique Conifers
For the tall fellows, windbreakers made from slatted fencing (and held in place by steel posts) are excellent protectors, while a garb of burlap will shelter your foundation conifers.
If you apply the latter, start at the bottom tying a stout cord to one of the branches, and trot around the specimen lifting each branch and holding it in place with the cord until the top is reached, then tie the cord end.
Next, apply three-inch strips of burlap starting at the bottom after fastening its end to the first round of cord with wire nails used like pins. Trot about the specimen as before winding the burlap spirally upward and fastening each lap in several places with nails.
The condition can be remedied if you arrange three stakes in a triangle with the tree trunk held centrally by wires (or stout non-stretching cords) that pass between the stakes and around the trunk.
The bark can be protected from being cut by running the wires through sections of rubber hose. This, I guarantee, will straighten the most oblique conifer.
Dealing With Excessive Snow on Evergreens
Of course, soft, fluffy snow looks beautiful on evergreens, and I’m aware that an ice or sleet storm can transform your garden into a “winter wonderland,” but I admire it for only a little while.
Then, as soon as the storm stops, and while the snow is still soft—jar the excessive loads from the branches by lifting each bough and giving it a slight shake from side to side.
Next, use your garden rake to jar and pop the snow from the high ones.
44659 by Doris Wilson Weiksheimer