Among bulbous flowers of the world, no genus offers more beauty or variety of color and form than Calochorlus.
Unfortunately, only a limited number are currently available to gardeners; fortunately, these are the easiest to grow and among the most lovely.
Mixtures are obtainable from several firms and named varieties from one or two specialists.
Calochortus “Globe and Star Tulips”
The globe and the star tulip groups share a single glossy dark green basal leaf.
Natives are mostly of open deciduous woodlands; they will do well in the sun but are best in light to moderate shade.
The varieties are excellent pot subjects and delightful in rock gardens or little woodland beds.
In the globe tulips, petals converge to form flowers that are pendant globes. Height varies from 6″ inches to 18″ inches in the tallest.
Stems are branched and bear a few to very many flowers according to the vigor of the individual plant.
In the several varieties, colors range from white or ivory, variously tinted from rose to intense rose. Their loveliness is beyond words.
Star tulips are little up-facing stars densely filled with silky hairs and, in many localities, are appropriately called “Pussy Ears.”
Tulips Colors
They vary from species that are dwarfs scarcely above ground to the tallest, about 12” inches high. Like our children, each has a character and appeal all its own.
Stems are usually branched and bear from a few to 40 flowers.
Color ranges from white, variously tinted, yellow, lilac, and deep purple. Some have three little dark eyes at the center and are saucy and intriguing.
Mariposa Tulip
Perhaps the best-known group is the mariposa tulip since its many species are widely distributed and are in the open fields and slopes where the traveler sees them.
The flower is of tulip form, three-petaled, as are all Calochortus.
Near the base of each petal is a brown or deep maroon spot. This induced the early Spanish explorers to name them aptly La Tulipa Mariposa – the Spanish name for the butterfly.
Mariposa tulips vary in height according to the species and growing conditions, from a foot in the shortest to fully 40” inches in the tallest.
Each species has various color forms ranging from white, less tinted pink, lilac or rose, yellow, gold, rose, purple, and blood red.
In one, the interior is ivory, while the backs of petals are purple with margins tinted plum.
All are found growing in full sun, but my experience is that in light shade, with much sunlight filtering in, they attain greater stature, and the flowers are much more lasting.
A group of tulip forms is called mariposa tulip, but incorrectly since all the members lack butterfly-like spots.
These are native to arid and semi-arid regions and, unfortunately, present many difficulties in the moister conditions of the garden.
Colors vary throughout the range, from the most delicate lilac to striking vermilion, gold, purple, and white, beautifully- tinted.
Calochortus Growing Needs
All Calochortus must have sharp drainage. They will grow in the poorest of soil. Gritty clayish soils, firm sandy barns, or even adobe suit them perfectly.
Recently manured soils should be avoided, and in any soil rich in humus, it is well to surround bull) with sharp sand.
A little well-rotted manure or commercial fertilizer, placed below bulbs and separated by an inch of soil, will enhance results.
Moisture should be liberal during the growing season, from October until petals drop in the Spring.
I have mentioned situations, but repeat that mariposa tulips may be in sun or light shade; globe and stars should be in light shade.
Mixtures will contain all groups and are planted in light shade.
All Calachortus is Winter hardy in the U. S. A., Montreal, and Quebec. However, other factors contribute to Winter losses. For example, poor drainage is a far too usual one.
Western Summers are bone dry. Bulbs have complete rest.
In many places, total rainfall is very light, and bulbs take advantage of it to perfect a season’s growth.
All of our bulbs start root action with the first Fall moisture, even as early as late August.
If the fall remains warm, sprouts will often push through the surface.
Successfully Growing Wide Varieties Of Calochorlus
In cold regions, if planted too early and the Autumn is friendly, they may make this premature growth, and a sharp drop in temperature means death. Therefore, planting should be deferred until after October 20.
Even though you receive your bulbs early, withhold planting until that date. They are packed dry and are unharmed by the delay if stored in a cool, dry place.
I advise against a mulch of any character. If it is left on, the tender shoots cannot push through it, and the bulbs will be smothered.
Also, bulbs grow very early under a mulch, and if mulch is removed early enough to prevent smothering, you will leave the tender leaves exposed to severe damage if a sharp frost comes before they are hardened.
Without a mulch, nature lets the shoots push through the soil slowly, so they become sturdy and hardy to late frosts.
Calochortus bulbs are small, ½” to ⅝” inches in diameter, and abnormally large for most species. Set bulbs 2″ to 4″ inches apart, and cover 2 ⅓” to 3″ inches of soil. In light mud, they should be covered with 3″ inches of soil.
In a region where summer rains, or in any area where a garden is watered, bulbs must be dug after petals have dropped and then aired in the shade until dry, before storing dry until time to replant in late October.
A more straightforward way, and always advisable for small numbers, is to plant in pots or boxes sunk into garden soil and, when petals have dropped, lift containers and ripen bulbs before storing them in a dry place until October.
The containers may then be placed back into the soil for another season.
Globe and star tulips stand some summer moisture, but they, too, are best if given complete rest.
Repotting or changing the soil in the containers is unnecessary for several years.
An amateur in Pennsylvania, successful in growing a wide variety of Calochorlus through sonic 20 years, at the end of a report on his experiences, summarized his conclusions as to his final method. “To prevent premature growth in the fall, I plant very late in November.
I often heavily mulch a piece of ground to prevent soil freezing and delay planting until after a severe frost. Then I plant at your recommended seemingly shallow depth and use no mulch.
Growth pushes through the soil when safe in very early Spring and becomes hardy to any later frost.
As to digging the bulbs after flowering – why bother? We buy new tulips each year; why not buy a few new bulbs of Calochortue when they are equally lovely and much less costly.”
44659 by Elmer C. Purdy