Oriental poppies are one of our hardiest and most colorful perennials. So many clumps 20 years old are still giving brilliance to gardens each spring.
Unfortunately, many gardeners consider them hard to grow because losses have resulted from spring planting or planting pot-grown plants with poor root systems. Lack of good drainage (necessary) accounts for the rest of the failures.
Transplanting Oriental Poppies
The only good time to plant or transplant Oriental poppies is during the dormant season in late July and August or during the fall growth in September and October.
I prefer dormant planting, but most dealers don’t send out plants until they have started growing as they receive too many complaints from customers receiving “dead” plants.
If the plants are dormant, they should not be overwatered; enough to settle the soil is sufficient, as too much will cause rot.
Oriental poppies should be planted upright with the crowns 3” inches below the surface. This is very important as the 3” inches of soil protects the plant from heaving, helps support the heavy bloom, and keeps out crown rot, the only disease I know of that attacks Oriental poppies.
As soon as the plants have finished blooming, cut off all bloom stems close to the ground leaving a 1” or 2” inch stub on the plant.
This prevents a crop of orange-red seedlings, but even more important, these short stubs will usually stay on the plant and protect the crown until fall growth pushes them off. An inch or two of soil or sand over the crown is good protection during the dormant season.
If a well-established poppy plant fails to appear in the fall, or even next spring, do not disturb the spot; in most cases, it will be back as strong as ever after a year’s absence. When the root grows, it becomes hollow and is attacked with crown rot.
When this decay reaches the solid root, it usually stops, and new buds are formed at the ends of the roots. These take time to reach the surface.
Propagating Poppies
When dividing or propagating poppies from root cuttings, use heavy pieces of root 6” to 8” inches long. Plant upright, ensuring you have the upper end of the root up, 3” inches below the surface, and you should have one or two blooms the following spring.
In the first winter, a light mulch of straw, marsh hay, or other material is necessary to prevent heaving.
There has been little breeding of Oriental poppies in America or England recently. In 25 years of intensive poppy breeding, growing from one to two thousand seedlings a year from carefully hand-pollinated seeds, I have introduced 16 which I felt were worthwhile. Therefore, any discussion of varieties will include many older names along with the new ones.
Color Chart
The only color chart we have found that would duplicate the brilliance of many poppy colors is the Royal Horticultural Society Chart. The number following the name is the exact tint as checked with it.
Sweentemyr (523), introduced this season, is the purest I have seen among the pinks. A profuse bloomer, it is neither a deep color nor a pale pink; many people say it looks like a strawberry soda.
MAY CURTIS (022/1) have very large blooms of different long-lasting quality on tall, strong stems. The deepest and most brilliant of a series of watermelon tints is a rose color and does not clash with other garden flowers.
Another watermelon red, G. I. Joe (20/1), is the last poppy to bloom. DOROTHY S. ROWE (020), which blooms early, is a deep cerise pink of a more subdued shade.
GLOWING ROSS (621), also very early-blooming, and ROSE GLOW (21.1), a late-blooming one, are watermelon pinks.
Deep reds are usually tops with men. However, they are slow-growing and often must reach full size in the first season.
ARTHUR CURTIS (821), one of the latest introductions, has extra large flowers of the deepest red on tall, strong stems.
AUSTRALIA (821) and TOREADOR (820) are also fine large, deep reds. RED CRINKLES (822) appear to be an even deeper color due to the shadows in the ruffled petals.
A great favorite, it is a profuse bloomer with the finest branched root system of any poppy, giving it extra vigor and long life.
Medium Reds
BUCKEYE RED (819) is the purest red in the medium reds.
The old standbys, CAVALIER and WIRTEMBERGIA, are a little more orange in tint but still large on strong, heavy stems.
CURTIS GIANT FLAME (18) is hard to classify as there is a shade of apricot in color.
MANCHU’S FAN (719) is distinctly different in form, with long green bracts extending beyond the petals.
MANDARIN is a beautiful flower without flaws but burns rapidly in the hot sun. Both of these are very large on heavy stems.
I cannot get enthusiastic over the so-called yellows. OPHIR GOLD and NORTH DAKOTA GOLD are probably the best, but they are far from yellow and burning in the sun.
I have produced many fine seedlings in this color range and hope to produce one that is outstanding and does not burn finally.
Salmon Pink Poppies
More named salmon pink poppies are on the market than any other color, and nearly all are satisfactory. Perry’s of England introduced at least 20, including the ever-popular MRS. PERRY.
MARY JANE MILLER and CURTIS GIANT SALMON PINK (618) are very early salmon pinks with large blooms on strong stems, and WARREAU (619) is a profuse blooming dwarf.
Two late flowering ones are LACHS KOENIGEN (18/1), a deeper salmon, and PERFECTION (619), with a trace of rose added to the salmon. Both are large and have strong stems.
In a class by itself is RIDGEWOOD BEAUTY (center 19/ edge 619/1). The beautiful ruffled petals edging a cup-shaped bloom are so wide they form a double row.
Newest Light Pinks
Newest in the light pinks are SPRING MORN (520), a clear flesh pink without a flaw, and PINK LASSIE, formerly called Aksarben; both have large blooms on strong, medium-height stems. CHEERIO (420/1) is an outstanding flesh pink with a red blotch of medium height and size.
DAINTY LADY (520 ), SASS PINK (420/1), and NEW PERFECTION (619/1) are all slightly different shades of light pink, with New Perfection, a very ruffled light salmon pink.
A series of pastel shades make especially beautiful cut flowers, but these colors bleach in the bright sunlight.
They are the following:
- RASPBERRY QUEEN (0023), a crushed raspberry color
- CURTIS GIANT FLESH PINK (0621/3), flesh pink overlaid lavender
- ENCHANTRESS (19/3), soft lilac rose, are all large on tall stems
INDIAN CHIEF and JESSLE CURTIS (824/1) are mahogany shades of medium height and size.
White Poppies
Better white poppies are needed, but it is a breeding proposition that may take time.
All the whites I have seen have a dark blotch and look dull or gray in most lights. PERRY’S WHITE and BARR’S WHITE are the two best-known.
Of the six similar whites produced in Michigan in 1936 and 1937, WHITE SPLENDOR appealed to me as slightly superior to the others with large blooms and a fine stem. All whites require good drainage, usually growing better on a raised terrace.
The double poppies listed with the Orientals have other blood in them. They are all stoloniferous kinds that send out underground runners.
They can be transplanted at any time, and there is no danger of losing them, but they need careful watching as they spread rapidly and will take over the whole flower bed unless controlled.
OLYMPIA, SALMON GLOW, and CRIMSON POMPON are popular varieties, blooming a week earlier than the true Oriental.
44659 by A. E. Curtis