It is a foregone conclusion that no one will ever grow the perfect peony. But our aim should be to approach this goal as nearly as possible.
The following will give such directions as will best help us to come within a reasonable distance of this end.
Growing Perfect Peonies
First, we must have a root of the proper size, free of disease, the ample roots to supply the needed nourishment for the best development of the plant.
This root must be planted properly in a bed prepared in the best way and located where the best conditions for growth are found.
This will be of little avail unless the plant is given the care it deserves during its lifetime, which may be a hundred years or more.
Peonies are divided into two main groups, the herbaceous, which die to the ground each year, and the woody, which are small shrubs commonly called tree peonies.
The cultural requirements for both of these groups are generally the same. Where they differ will be mentioned.
Choose A Suitable Location
First of all, it must be well drained. If it is not naturally so, tile drainage or raised beds should be employed. This is a must.
The sun should shine on the bed most of the day. Tree peonies will do well in a more shady situation than herbaceous peonies, as they are native to the woods.
The roots of trees and shrubs must not invade the bed. They take the food needed by the peonies. Walnut trees are poisonous to peonies.
In preparing the place for planting, remember that peonies are long-lived and resent moving, so they should be left in the same location unless it becomes necessary to move them. This is so building their home accordingly.
Spacing The Plants
If planted in beds, a width of 16’ feet is enough for the largest bed, and each plant should be spaced at least 3’ feet each way from its neighbor; 4’ feet is far better, and 5 or 6 is not too much. It is best to stagger the plants in rows for better viewing from the walks.
If planted in long borders, a width of 4’ feet is about right. However, if planted as individual specimens, for which purpose they are ideally suited, the hole should be at least 3’ feet in diameter.
These beds or holes should be dug out to a depth of 18” inches or more if it can be done without too much expense. A depth of 3’ feet is a little.
However, if this is too discouraging, remember that they will do well for a long time with a depth of 10” or 12” inches, though more feeding may be required.
Good Peony Soil
Keep as much of the original soil as is suitable for use, and discard the rest.
Peonies grow best in good garden soil that will produce good vegetables. Too much sand makes good roots but few flowers. The soil on the clay side produces the finest flowers, but plants are slower in developing.
They thrive equally well in slightly acid or alkaline soils. If soil is too acidic, a dressing of lime for quick results or ground limestone for long-lasting but slower results may be applied at about a half pound to 10 square feet.
Fertilizer
l it up to about 8” inches from the normal level of the bed with soil into which has been incorporated about one pound of good garden fertilizer into a plant.
This fertilizer should comprise the elements most needed by the soil used. Thoroughly rotted manure may be used, one part to three of the soil.
Peony soil should always be well-mixed in nitrogen as that element makes lush, weak growth and few or no flowers.
Generally speaking, the following formulas produce good results:
- 5-8-8
- 5-8-7
- 2-10-10
A consultation with your county agent might be of value to you in your choice. Bone Meal and superphosphate are always good.
There is some objection to using manure, as it may be a source of disease. It should be well packed so that it will not settle. A thorough soaking will help.
Allow For Settling
Then fill the top section with the best soil obtainable without any fertilizer. It is well to mound the bed several inches above the normal level. The soil should contain enough humus to make it retentive of moisture and easily workable.
Well-rotted compost, peat moss, or sawdust may supply this. If sawdust is used, be sure it is suitable for your type of soil, as in some places, it is not beneficial, but the contrary.
After the bed has been filled, please give it a soaking with enough water to penetrate to the bottom of the bed. Do all of this before planting as possible to allow for settling.
When ready to plant, lay off the bed, and space the plants at a distance determined when the bed was prepared. Then, dig each hole large enough to accommodate the root without crowding it.
For accuracy, lay across the hole a stick in the center of which a piece 2″ inches long have been nailed at right angles.
Hold the root by the piece of stem usually left on it, and let the eyes touch the 2″ inch pointer on the stick. The roots should then fan out from the plant’s crown and slope downward.
Fill it with the soil, packing it down well, being careful not to injure the roots or eyes and not to leave any spaces unfilled around the roots.
When the hole has been filled to the tops of the eyes, pour in four or five gallons of water and allow it to sink in. Then fill in the rest of the hole and mound the soil above the plant 5″ or 6″ inches for protection the first winter.
Be sure that no fertilizer or manure comes into contact with the root.
In areas where frost does not penetrate deep enough to freeze the eyes and crowns, place the tips of the eyes even with the top of the ground.
Tree Peonies
Tree peonies should be planted 4” or more inches below the surface with the graft to force them to make roots above the graft. If the grafted roots are from herbaceous (or ordinary) peonies, they will die in a few years.
Tree peonies on their roots should be planted deeper than herbaceous peonies as their roots tend to spread horizontally from the stems.
If you use labels, they should be placed when the planting is done. A plot should always be made of your planting, as labels have a habit of being misplaced.
Standard Division
The right-sized root to plant has been the subject of much debate, but it may be safely said that for the average gardener, the so-called standard division of herbaceous peonies is the best.
It should have at least three good eyes and two or more roots branching out from the crown and not crossing each other (see diagram).
If it has only one main root, it should be well-branched. They should be no longer than 8” inches. Six is better.
Divisions with only one or two eyes and shorter roots make the best plants, but they require more attention and take longer to develop into good plants.
Plants one-year-old from small divisions are usually about the same size as a standard division. Two-year-old plants are sometimes used.
They give quick results for a year or two but are outgrown by standard divisions in three or four years, so their use is not recommended.
Larger plants should always be divided into standard or small divisions before planting as they tend to stand still for years after planting and may never recover.
Move When Dormant
Tree peonies of any size, except those one year from graft, may be safely moved when dormant. Only an expert should attempt to plant one-year grafts.
They often have no feeding roots and will die unless carefully nurtured. A two-year graft is the smallest size recommended for planting tree peonies.
Proper Planting Time
Fall is the proper time to plant, when the roots are dormant, beginning in September for areas where frost comes early and in October when September is likely to be hot and dry.
Planting may be done until the ground freezes up for the winter. However, where this does not happen, it can be done even well into the winter months.
If necessary, spring planting is most likely to succeed in the North. However, South of the Mason and Dixon line or the Ohio River, only the best of care will bring your plants through the summer safely when planted in the spring.
However, if plants grown in pots are obtainable, they may be planted at any time. Ibis is a new practice, and results have yet to be recorded.
Peonies should be cultivated often enough to keep the weeds in check, starting as soon as plants appear above ground.
Never cultivate deep enough to injure the roots. Peonies need abundant water until they bloom, forming the eyes for next year’s growth.
If rain does not come, water your plants with the hose until moisture soaks down to the roots. Repeat as often as necessary to keep plants from suffering.
Prevent Disease
To prevent disease, begin spraying with a good fungicide as soon as the plants appear and repeat once or twice before and after blooming to check the leaf spot. Bordeaux mixture is often used for this spray.
Fertilize sparingly after the second or third year. Use bone meal or good garden fertilizer.
It will be well to keep up with the new foliar feeding methods, antibiotics with foliar feeding, gibberellins, and starter solutions. As these are more or less in the experimental stage, it is wise to go slow until you are sure of the results.
Fall Clean-Up
Fall clean-up is the most important operation of the year for disease prevention. Gather all debris and burn it. No stems or leaves should be left. Please do not cut the stems until they begin to die.
If you have a flame thrower and can operate it safely, it is an excellent tool to do the job. It will not only burn the plants off and leave them on the ground but also sterilize the topsoil well enough to kill disease spores that may be left in it.
Tree peonies should not be cut down. The leaves, however, should be gathered and burned.
Whether used to keep down weeds or for winter protection, mulch should never be used to make a soggy mass on the ground; corn cobs, ground or whole, buckwheat hulls, and other similar materials may be used.
Saw dust is a possibility, but it is best not to use that from pine wood, as this is said to contain a product poisonous to some plants.
44659 by George W. Peyton