When one sees some of the newly improved Shasta daisies, it is obvious why they are increasing in popularity as a favorite white summer flower.
The newer varieties bloom from late June until heavy frosts in the fall, and even when they are not in flower, their foliage is most attractive.
It is rather difficult to believe that the small white daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum) is one of the progenitors of the magnificent double varieties.
The Shasta, as we now know it, is a true hybrid — the result of crosses between C. Icucanthemum. C. maximum, C. lacustre and C. nipponicum.
These are all white, single daisies differing primarily in the habit of growth, and from them, the semi-double and double varieties were originally achieved through careful selection.
Shasta Daisies Grown From Seed
I have been raising Shasta daisies for about 20 years, and I still find an increasing fascination in their variability from seed.
There is variation in the shape, size, and color of the leaves. For example, the blossoms of plants grown from the seed of one flower head may vary from 2” to 7” inches in diameter.
Because of this great variability, plants grown from the seed of named varieties never come true.
In the case of the beautiful double variety G. Marconi, I have raised several thousand of its seedlings and have found only a few that approached the original’s charm.
Disappointing Feature
Generally, the stems are weak, and the blossoms are not as double. Another disappointing feature is that before the buds show color, there is a dry chaff over the inner petals, which, even when fully open, gives the blossom a dirty appearance.
There are some so-called cream varieties, but all fade to white. Several years ago, I had a small greenish-yellow single appear and have used it in crossing.
I also had one that had several lavender-pink streaks on the petals. It was of weak constitution and, worst of all, was sterile.
Growing In A Variety Of Soil
Shastas are rather unpredictable in their ability to carry through the winter. Two years ago, I lost all not planted in the cold frame for increase. This past year, they all lived in the garden without protection.
Shastas grow in a variety of soils but seem to do best in a rather heavy soil plentifully supplied with humus.
They will also do well without much care but need the care to grow real exhibition blooms.
Dividing the Clumps
Depending upon the variety, I separate my daisies each year into divisions, giving one to three stems per plant.
I set them in the garden from the cold frame in early April. This gives them a chance to start a good root system before warm weather.
They need lots of water, especially when the buds begin to form. Around the middle of May, I rake in about a handful of fertilizer (I use 5-8-7) around each plant.
Serious Problem in Some Season
Try to put it on just before a rain. I have found small doses of nitrate in soda very beneficial. This should be used after the buds are formed before the petals show.
However, it must be used with care since too much will weaken the stems. I also strongly believe in disbudding each stem into one bloom.
Aphis is rather a serious problem in some seasons but is easily controlled. Cutworms are a nuisance.
As they only bother early in the season, they will help make a bushy plant for you by nipping out the center.
To me, at least, the most discouraging pest is the stalk borer. It is hard to control because it is not generally noticed until the stem wilts.
Fine Double Shasta Daisy
Two years ago, I found a fine double with an outstanding, although peculiar, characteristic.
This was twisting or spiraling of the stems. At first, I was a bit unhappy because the blossoms were attractive.
I thought this spiraling would spoil it as far as commercial possibilities are concerned. Instead, it gave added strength to hold up the large blooms.
It has now been named Chief Pokanoket. Last summer, I became conscious of the various textures in the petals of the daisies.
I found that blossoms with a certain stiffness in their petals kept several days longer when cut than those of a softer texture.
Petal Stiffness
By stiffness, I do not mean that the petals were hard because they were brittle, but rather a wiriness that caused them to resist the pressure of fingers on them.
This year I am trying Wirral Supreme and Jennifer Reed. Both are double with crested centers. Jennifer Reed is a sport of Esther Reed.
The latter was not hardy except with protection. Jennifer is a stronger grower with larger flowers and longer stems.
G. Marconi is still one of the most beautiful, fully-double varieties. It can be grown to six and a half or seven inches in diameter.
Large doubles are more effective than a large single. The petals of seven-inch singles have been too floppy in appearance.
Majestic is an excellent single variety. However, the petals are not as soft as other single varieties. I prefer a single with broader petals, such as Brides Delight.
Doubled-Single Varieties
Edgebrook Giant is another good single but does not grow very tall. Aglaia is more loosely built but is a big, shaggy double nearly as large as G. Marconi. Finally, Jersey Cream is a semi-double.
The best-cut flower I have grown is Snow Queen. This is a seedling of Jersey Cream. I have saved until last the description of a seedling I grew last year, which is very large and fully doubled. The buds are deep cream.
When about two-thirds open, the first petals have faded to white, leaving the remaining petals still elongating deep cream, giving a two-toned effect.
When fully open, it is so finely chiseled that the appearance of raggedness is absent.
Nearly all of these varieties are everblooming. As the plant stools out from the base, new flowers are formed.
However, I have found it best not to fertilize after the latter part of August. The plants need a hardening or ripening period before the frosts and winter set in.
Usually, the Shastas keep their green leaves until January. This is because they do not like “wet feet” in the winter, and plants with good drainage stand a better chance of surviving.
It is a good plan to pull a bit of dirt around the plants but, of course, not cover the crowns. Evergreen boughs are excellent protection during the winter.
44659 by Kenneth W. Houghton