In 1941, I received my first trial of Oriental poppy plants, and I have been intrigued with growing this magnificent perennial. And now, some 200 plants later, I am more than ever entranced with Oriental poppies.
Gardeners everywhere are sharing my enthusiasm and have acclaimed the Oriental poppy queen of the June garden pageant. And small wonder! What other flower can equal in spectacular appearance the exquisitely textured poppy?
While countless standard poppy varieties are being grown with pleasing results, new varieties are superior in every way.
Recently, such hybridists as Charles Baumgardner of Forest Grove, Oregon, have produced Oriental poppies, which are notably different from other existing varieties. This fall, six new poppies are being introduced.
New Poppy Forms
These newer poppy forms, in single and double flowers, differ greatly. Some single flowers have wide flat petals, while others are deeply fluted, crimped, or ruffled in slightly curved or deeply cup-shaped blooms.
Textures also vary. Flowers possess the luster of satin, the crinkly finish of crepe paper, or the fragility of Chinese silk. Markings are individual.
A large group of bi-colors displays white backgrounds with deep or narrow bands of red, orange, pale, and deep pink. Flowers 12” inches across are not uncommon.
Darling
One of the loveliest varieties is Darling. The 9-inch, rather flat bloom is clear white with an inch-wide border of glowing pink. Stems are yard-high and carry quantities of bloom about the first of June.
Gondolier
Another new poppy is Gondolier, which blooms at midseason. In the garden, it is an eye-catcher for the size of its bloom and color combination of deep lustrous pink with blood-red basal spots.
Juliet
Juliet has been a personal favorite since it first appeared in my garden. Large ruffled blooms shade from deep pink at the petal’s edge to pure white at the center. This poppy is a blend rather than a bi-color and blooms late.
Harvest Moon
Harvest Moon’s color is unique. It is closest to true yellow in Oriental poppies. Its vibrant orange-yellow flowers show a dozen large petals—almost a semi-double.
For sheer drama, set a clump of Harvest Moon against an evergreen background.
Lighthouse
Lighthouse is another personal favorite. It seems to radiate beams of light. (This quality of aliveness characterizes all Oriental poppies.)
Lighthouse’s flowers are extremely large and rather flat, which adequately displays the huge red spots centered in the pale petals.
Three feet tall, this late flowering sort holds its many blooms erect and is well placed among June peonies and iris.
Majorette
Majorette is another beautiful poppy. It is spectacular because of its substance, crinkled petals, and the purity of its deep pink tint. Blooming about June 1st, it is superb as a cut flower.
Outstanding Older Sorts
Outstanding are such older sorts as the following:
- Arab Chief, three and a half feet tall, with a profusion of ruffled, dark red flowers overlaid with purple.
- Carousel, a ruffled bi-color, has snowy petals bordered bonfire red.
- Show Girl, bright pink white-centered blooms.
- Maiden’s Blush, small ruffled white blooms, edged blush-pink.
- China Boy, a show-stealer, has white-centered orange flowers on three-and-a-half-foot stems.
Among other musts for poppy, fanciers are:
- Pinnacle
- Valencia and Adorable
- Doubloon
- Eureka
- Springtime
- Prince Charming
Any of the pastel poppies mentioned, such as Lavender Glory, Lavender Giant, and Raspberry Queen, retain their true tones best when grown in a little shade.
Growing poppies is about the easiest of garden projects. Characteristic bloom should not be expected the first year after planting, but after that—and for a lifetime—the blossoms become increasingly beautiful with the years.
Growing Conditions
Oriental poppies require a thoroughly drained, sunny situation. Ordinary garden soil mixed with sand or grit pleases them.
No fertilizer should be added to the soil, nor should the plants be grown in soil that has been fertilized.
Nitrogen near the plants causes the roots to seek it out, thereby developing a lush top growth which eventually kills the plant.
Since Oriental poppies come from hot, dry countries where they send their roots deep to obtain sustenance, duplicating these conditions as nearly as possible seems advisable. (This is the most recent advice from poppy breeders.)
When Setting Out Plants
Dig the soil deeply and pulverize well. I usually fill the hole with water and allow it to be absorbed before setting the long tap root. This assures sufficiently deep moisture to start healthy growth.
Set the root carefully in the hole and pull the soil about it, being careful to have the joint where the foliage originates well covered with soil.
Leaving it exposed will cause root rot. Keep the plant watered until growth is well along.
Poppy plants should be set, lifted, or divided during their dormant period in August and September.
With old stock for division, it is advisable to work about the plant carefully with a spading fork. When nearing the root, clear the soil away with your fingers to avoid breaking the brittle tap root.
However, this probability is not fatal since even an inch-long piece of root will, if there is an eye in its length, produce new plants when set in a bed of soil mixed with vermiculite or sand, covered a half-inch deep, watered, and shaded for a time.
The first winter after being set is the dangerous period for Oriental poppies. The freezing and thawing of soil about their roots are often fatal.
I have found that a mulch of sand and coarse coal ashes placed immediately about the plant with an additional mulch of hay or other non-packing mulch under the leaves (never over) should carry the poppies safely through their first winter.
Poppies Make Excellent Cut Flowers
Cutting them in the bud in the evening, charring the stem for at least an inch, and plunging the stem up to the flower in cool water will preserve the bloom for many days.
44659 by Martha Haislip