A gardener’s adventure with spring bulbs begins with fall’s sharp, apple-scented days, for the tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths that flower in the spring must start as bulbs—to be planted now and during the next few weeks.
Gottscho-Schleisncr’s fall and spring photographs remind us that many good gardening days are ahead. (The best gardeners pick their apples before they fall from the tree—or soon after that!)
Oscar Keeling Moore suggests good daffodil varieties, how to plant them, and how to create picture settings with them.
For generations, gardeners of all ages have been fascinated by the lure of the daffodil. For them, everything that follows is anticlimactic.
Early fall is the time to plant bulbs for a spring display. Picture settings can be created in an infinite variety of situations.
A handful of cheerful and spring-heralding trumpets at the foot of a prominent tree will create golden magic. A cluster about a clump of birches is something extraordinary.
Terraces, garden walks, and steps flanked by daffodils offer the opportunity to enjoy the flowers close at hand.
Various Types of Daffodils For Your Garden
A little collection of the various types, with no fewer than three of each, grouped to accent their individuality, makes a showcase of a perennial border.
When used beside evergreen shrubs or a hedge, a ribbon planting, three bulbs deep, can be a poet’s joy.
When set in little drifts in the rock garden, in front of rock outcroppings, along the shaded garden and woodland pathways, and a brookside, the smaller-flowered types can be a rare treat.
And, if your grounds are large, you might naturalize in light woodland, in a meadow, or on grassy slopes that needn’t be mowed until after the bulbs’ foliage matures. Or perhaps you will plant them on rough banks, along a pond, or about your garden’s outskirts.
Here, you should aim for a scattered, careless effect, with masses of varied breadths trailing irregularly and majestically one into another.
In my younger days, I improperly considered any small-cupped sorts as Narcissus and any of the large trumpets as a daffodil. Later, I learned that each is a species in the genus Narcissus.
Well-Known Daffodils
What is commonly known as daffodil is Narcissus pseudo-narcissus, and the jonquil is Narcissus jonquilla. Nevertheless, all are commonly known as daffodils, daffodillies, daffydowndillys, daffies, and just dafs.
Much of their fascination lies in the incredible variety of flower types, and breeders continue to offer enchanting new ones yearly.
With a proper selection of varieties, it is possible to have a flowering sequence that lasts for twelve weeks.
In the vicinity of New York, flowers can be had from late February, when Narcissus minimus daringly opens, until late May.
Little Miniature Trumpets
The little miniature trumpets, to which the diminutive N. minimus belongs, open the spring show with their elfin fanfare; thence follows the full fanfare of the large trumpets. And the latest are the May Flowering varieties of the fabled old N. poeticus group.
I would select some of the old and, thus, less costly varieties that have endured and endeared and a few of the more recent varieties.
Seek a balance between the pure whites, pure yellows, and bicolors, between the trumpets and the large and small cups. And, surely, you will want to plant at least a sprinkling of the noble double-flowered varieties.
Your collection might include any of the following excellent varieties listed under the divisions to which they belong. This arbitrary new classification was adopted in 1950 by the American Daffodil Society.
Two Divisions
Two divisions were eliminated from the older classification, the giant Leeds (N. pseudonarcissus x N. poeticus) and Barri (N. incomparabilis x N. poeticus).
Varieties formerly in these two groups are now included with the large-cupped and small-cupped varieties, respectively.
Division I. Trumpet
For showy yellow trumpet daffodils (both the trumpet and the perianth—the outer petals—are yellow), you might choose from Unsurpassable, Golden Harvest, King Alfred, and Peerless Gold (very late flowering).
Pick from Beersheba, Gloria, and Mount Hood for white trumpets (trumpet and perianth white or nearly white).
For bicolor trumpets (trumpet colored, perianth white), select from Spring Glory, President Lebrun, and Music Hall (the latter naturalizes superbly).
Division II. Large-cupped
These are very large chalice-cupped daffodils, formerly classified as N. incomparabilis.
While these and the trumpet varieties may be about equally large, the large cupped has a wide flaring cup, the edge of which does not roll back, while in the trumpets, the edge of the trumpet rolls back.
Choose from:
- Abelard (yellow cup, primrose perianth)
- Backhouse’s Giant (red trumpet, dark yellow perianth)
- Daisy Schaeffer (primrose to light canary cup, white perianth)
- Dick Wellband (flame-orange cup, white perianth)
- Fortune (a wonderful recently created a giant hybrid, having a coppery red-orange cup, lemon-gold perianth)
- John Evelyn (another giant hybrid, fluted lemon yellow cup, white perianth)
- Mrs. R. O. Backhouse (the delicately beautiful, treasured pink daffodil; pale apricot-pink cup, ivory-white perianth)
- Pluvius (giant-flowered, flaming orange-red cup, golden-yellow perianth)
Division III. Small-cupped
Certain of the smaller, charmingly graceful, and fragrant varieties belong to this division.
You might select from:
- Edward Buxton (orange-red cup, soft-yellow perianth)
- Johannesburg (orange frilled double cup, white perianth)
- Pomona (waxy white perianth, orange-bordered citron-yellow cup, Hushed apricot)
- Polar Ice (unusual white cup, shaded icy-green, white perianth)
- Mrs. Nette O’Melveny (a fairy-like flower; lemon cup with orange picotee, white perianth)
Division IV. Double
These are the stately double daffodils, which usually are multicolored and fragrant. Choose yours from:
- Mrs. William Copeland (striking double, clear sulfur-white throughout)
- Mary Copeland (an arresting semi-double exhibiting stunning three-color effect)
- Golden Castle (wonderfully large, golden-yellow, double trumpet daffodil)
- Indian Glory (a great sulfur-yellow, double trumpet daffodil
- Indian Chief (yellow-orange, petals curled and twisted),
- Twink (creamy yellow and red)
Division V. Triandrus
Included are miniature varieties of dwarf habit and delightful fragrance—several blossoms to a stem.
Select from:
- Thalia (orchid-flowered, pure white)
- V. triandrus albus (the exquisite little angel’s tears, creamy white) and its hybrids—Snow Bird, Moonshine, and Shot Silk (the latter has perfect formation; creamy white; ideal for naturalizing).
Division VI. Cyclnmincus
These, too, are of dwarf habit. They bear cyclamen-like flowers, have reflexed perianths, and are the earliest of daffodils to bloom.
Their varieties include N. cyclamineus minor (a rich yellow, trumpeted, adorable miniature) and its hybrids—February Gold and March Sunshine.
Division VII. Jonquilla
Here are the jonquils, richly fragrant and fine for cutting.
You might select from the true single jonquil, N. jonquilla simplex (cluster-flowered, rich yellow, deliciously fragrant), and its outstanding hybrids—Golden Scepter (a giant, clear golden yellow) and Trevathan (clustered, beautifully translucent, butter-yellow perianth, jonquil-yellow trumpet).
Division VIII. Tozzafla
The tazettas are highly fragrant, cluster-flowered, and formerly known as poetaz. They may be grown in water indoors. The division includes the hardy hybrids (poeticus x tazetta) and the non hardy (polyanthus).
The former include:
- Laurens Koster (white perianth, deep-yellow cup)
- St. Agnes (white perianth, citron-yellow cup; fine for naturalizing)
- Geranium (white perianth, orange-red cup
- Cheerfulness (double; cream petals with intermixed short orange ones)
- Yellow Cheerfulness (double, clear yellow)
In the nonhardy group, those that can be grown outdoors only in the South and on the Pacific Coast are the familiar paper white (pure white) and N. tazetta Orientalis (the Chinese sacred lily; pale yellow perianth, darker yellow cup).
Division IX. Poeticus
Those in this division are commonly referred to as the poet’s narcissus. They are characterized by having snow-white petals and a small flattened eye or crown and are sweet-scented.
Fine varieties include Actaea (very large flowered; deep orange cup) and Recurvus (the old pheasant’s eye, very late, orange-red cup, unexcelled for massing and naturalizing).
Division X. Species & Wild Forms
Three in this group include N. bulbocodium conspicuus, the quaint hoop-petticoat, so named because of its widely flaring trumpet and streaming petals, golden-yellow, dwarf; N. minor minimus and N. minor nanus, each about 3” inches tall and bright yellow, and the earliest of all narcissus to flower—usually February.
Planting Location
Selecting a location for planting is not difficult, as daffodils grow well under a variety of conditions. Most varieties will grow in full sun or where they receive light shade for part of the day.
However, certain varieties need constant light shade to show their best. These include the doubles, all-white and nearly white varieties, and all those in the porticus division.
Soil For Daffodils
Daffodils are not demanding of soil. In any fertile, well-drained location, they will thrive. Only the miniatures like dampish soil. When preparing a new bed, spade the area deep.
To maintain soil fertility— necessary for large blossoms, free-flowering, and good multiplication of bulbs—fertilize the soil each autumn.
Work into the uppermost 8″ inches, about 3 pounds of 5-10-5 or 6-12-6 fertilizer to every 100 square feet area. Or, to the same area, work in 5 bushels of well-rotted manure—never use it fresh.
September and October planting, rather than later, is preferable. Daffodils tend to root early, hence their preference for early planting.
Set bulbs at twice their depth, measuring from their top to the soil’s surface; space from 4” to 6” inches apart each way. This will allow room for their increase.
Care of Bulbs
For a naturalistic effect, plant in groups of from 3 to 12 or more bulbs, with purposeful irregularity.
During their first winter, protect by mulching when cold weather sets in. This should be removed after the last hard freeze in spring.
After bulbs have flowered, clip off the flower heads to prevent seed formation, but do not cut back the leaves; these must die naturally to build up the bulb’s strength for next year.
Therefore, never mow naturalized areas until mid-July or later. To conceal dying bulb foliage in your flower beds, interplant with annuals or perennials.
Gardeners interested in learning more about daffodils would do well to join the American Daffodil Society. For further information, write to George S. Lee Jr., Pres., 17 Chichester Road, New Canaan, Conn.
Images:
In this woodland setting, daffodils can be naturalized in large sweeping groups. The dappled shade from the white birch trees is light enough to permit good development of daffodil foliage, ensuring flowers yearly. Plant both early and late varieties.
Along this grassy path is a wide ribbon planting of daffodils with a background of lilacs. Later, annuals are planted here to provide color all summer long.
In this rather rural setting, complete with old-fashioned wells and buckets, daffodils have been naturalized on the gentle slope near the front of the house. The grass is left unmowed until the foliage has ripened and turned yellow.
The rock garden on either side of this path is highlighted in early spring with daffodils. This is an ideal location for planting some small-flowered types: Narcissus jonquilla, N. cyclamineus, N. triandrus, and their hybrids.
Above: Striking pictures can be created by planting daffodils with other early spring bulbs; hyacinths are used here.
At left: Around this pond, the fragrant poet’s narcissus has been naturalized. The soil must be well-drained, not boggy.
44659 by Oscar Keeling