These are by no means all of the flowers available for strong early summer bloom.
Omitted, for instance, are the true lilies and the hemerocallis, both such staples for color that they are in classes by themselves.
In the photograph are
- Monarda
- Delphinium
- Lupines
- Liatris
- Tritomas
- Yellow and white achillea
- Penstemons
- Perennial garden phlox
- Gloriosa daisies
- Roses.
Depending on your latitude and climate, you will probably have these flowers in bloom from the first of July, and some will continue intermittently until fall.
They come a little ahead of the main bloom of annuals, such as marigolds and petunias.
Now is the time to plant all of them.
Excellent Cut Flowers
Most in this group are excellent cut flowers.
One exception is phlox, which shatters so easily, it is not on the preferred-for-cutting list.
On the other hand, nothing is more valuable for big color splashes in the garden.
Except for lupine (and some may include delphinium), those in this list are easy to grow almost anywhere.
Here are plant-by-plant descriptions of the culture and good kinds available:
Achillea
These tough but gentle plants succeed almost anywhere, without special care.
They resist drouths and heat, are hardy to cold. There are many kinds.
Perhaps most spectacular because largest-growing are the gray-leafed, 4’ foot plants of Achillea filipendulina such as ‘Gold Plate.’
These will continue to produce new golden flowers all summer—and they are almost as pretty dried as they are when fresh cut.
The green-foliaged, lower-growing Achillea ptarmica, with its white button-like flowers, will bloom and bloom—its only fault is a tendency to spread too fast.
Achillea taggetea is a low (18” inch) grower with gray foliage and yellow flowers, favored for edgings.
Give all achilleas a sunny spot in average soil.
Delphinium
Where summers are hot, this may perform more like an annual or biennial for you, but its tall spires are so beautiful, both in gardens and arrangements, it is worth extra trouble.
Purchase plants or start from the freshest seeds obtainable.
Cool north exposure is good, but give plants a place where the sun shines most of the day, and provide rich, limy soil.
The most spectacular varieties are the Pacific Hybrids, which come in seed strains by colors are:
- ‘Galahad’ (giant white)
- ‘Lancelot’ (lilac)
- ‘King Arthur’ (royal purple)
- ‘Astolat’ (lilac to deep rose with fawn and black “bees”)
- ‘Summer Skies’ (light blue)
Another kind, easier to keep where summers are warm, is the Chinese delphinium which grows perhaps 30” inches tall and has exquisite blue or white flowers over a long season.
This one (Delphinium grandiflorum chinense) is easy to grow from seed and frequently self-sows.
After first blooming, do the following tips:
- Cut back stalks of both kinds to prevent seed formation.
- 2 weeks later, water and fertilize each plant to spur renewed growth, and by late summer, there should be bloom stalks again.
- During the season, spray plants with the multi-purpose chemicals you use on your roses (something containing both an insecticide and fungicide).
- Before winter, mound each crown with coarse sand to ensure good drainage and freedom from slugs.
Gloriosa Daisy
Offspring of the prairie black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, the gloriosa daisy is a result of modern breeding and can rightfully be called a technological triumph.
The robustness and large flower size are caused by a doubling of chromosomes induced by coIchicine.
Now offered in double and single forms, pure yellow and with pinwheels of red, they make a real splash in a summer garden and are equally acceptable as cut flowers.
They grow readily from spring-sown seeds, outdoors or in, and this is the usual way of obtaining plants.
Moreover, they seed themselves, so you will always have new ones coming along to replace any that may die.
In places with extremely cold winters, plants may fail to live over.
They are simple to grow, requiring only a sunny place in average soil.
Liatris
These stalwarts of prairie and plain, called gayfeather or blazing star, make garden flowers of great desirability, most useful for accents and striking in arrangements.
Usually lavender, sometimes white or pink, they erect stiff spires of feathery blooms opening from the top down.
Heights range from 18” inches to 3’ feet or more, depending on kind and conditions.
Rock-hardy, they need little except a sunny place in average garden soil.
Examples of tall, late-flowering Liatris are:
- ‘September Glory’
- ‘White Spire’
An example of earlier, lower growing Liatris include:
- ‘Silver Tips’
Lupine
Not everywhere can you grow these.
Where summers are hot, they are not practical.
Where they grow well, as in the Pacific Northwest, or northern New England, no flower is more lovely.
The stately columns of close-set pea-like flowers come in blue, pink, red, yellow, purple, and combinations.
Spikes grow 3’ feet tall or more.
Here are the tips to follow to grow Lupine:
- Set plants in spring or fall in light, well-drained humusy soil, in sun or part shade.
- Keep watered in dry weather.
- Give a strawy mulch over winter if you expect intense cold.
Those called Russell Hybrids are so good they have practically replaced all other kinds.
Monarda
For color in shade, few mid-summer flowers surpass this old standby.
It now comes in glamorous shades once seldom found—delicate pink, pristine white, blazing scarlet, salmon, and others.
Monarda is so easy you can hardly discourage it.
Here are the steps to plant Monarda:
- Put the Monarda in sun or shade.
- Give it a little moisture as it grows (unless rainfalls) and average soil with some humus added.
- Every 3 or 4 years, divide the clumps, which tend to spread.
Good kinds of Monarda include:
- ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ (red)
- ‘Croftway Pink’
- ‘Mahogany’
- ‘Adam’ (an improved red)
Penstemon
Sometimes dainty, sometimes bold, penstemons or beard tongues come in a wide variety.
Some remind you of foxgloves, others are on the airy order of coral bells.
Colors go from pure white through pinks, corals, red, lilac, blue, and purple, but not true yellow.
They are elegant in arrangements and last with a good impact in the garden.
Many rebloom if initial flower stalks are cut down.
Give them good drainage, soil containing a sand and some humus but not much fertilizer, and plenty of air circulation.
Most kinds are not especially long-lived.
Wonderful new varieties are appearing yearly, including:
- ‘Prairie Dusk’
- ‘Prairie Fire’
- ‘Henry Hybrids’
- ‘White Queen’ (the stately white form of Penstemon digitalis)
Phlox
The English have advanced the entire cause of this American flower, and the SymonsJeune strains are among the very best examples of their success.
Good named varieties of SymonsJeune kinds are:
- ‘Everest’ (white)
- ‘D. H. Forbes’ (pink)
- ‘Lilac Time’ (lilac)
- ‘Tairy’s Petticoat’ (pink with rose eye)
- ‘Sandra’ (crimson)
Here are the following tips for planting Phlox:
- Plant phlox in spring or fall in rich humusy soil, and barely cover the growing points.
- Give plenty of room for good air circulation.
- Water through drouths.
- In hot weather, you may need to spray to control spider mites.
- In fall, use sulfur or other fungicides to prevent mildew.
- Keep spent flower heads removed to avoid seed formation and to encourage further bloom.
Tritonta (kniphofia)
The red-hot poker is the common name of this useful and exotic-looking perennial from Africa.
Once considered too tender for northern gardens, it is found now in new varieties much hardier than once believed.
Mounds of daylily-]ike foliage push up in spring, followed in early summer by “pokers” of cream to scarlet.
Well-drained light soil suits tritoma, in full sun.
Mulch with leaves in the fall if your winters are severe.
Pretty kinds of Tritoma include:
- ‘Summer Sunshine’ (red)
- ‘Golden Scepter’ (golden yellow)
- ‘Coral Seas’ (coral rose)