The brilliantly colored, lily-shaped trumpets of amaryllis have drawn admiration wherever they have been grown.
Surprisingly, these magnificent flowers are not as frequently seen in windows as begonias or African violets.
It may be that some gardeners have not yet developed the “knack” required in caring for them.
Still, the amaryllis is being grown indoors in greater numbers than any related bulb.
To an amaryllis lover, this is as it should be, for not only does an amaryllis bulb produce several superb flowers, but with the proper care, it will repeat this performance year after year.
Certainly, it is worth its “salt”!
Growing Interest In The Amaryllis Family
Interest in the amaryllis family has been boosted considerably since the many Amaryllis growers tried various cultural methods and began to circulate bulb information.
Members from coast to coast, who live within suitable climatic and seasonal ranges, are growing the various bulbs of this distinguished group.
Many choice hybrids and several species are available.
Still, it is sincerely hoped that amaryllis growers will continue to supply new colors and improved types of hybrids and that more species will be stocked soon.
Amaryllis In Pots
It is not strange that we still hear of amaryllis being grown in pots during the summer because years ago, growers recommended only pot culture.
Since there are amaryllis fanciers who do not have available garden space, it is fortunate that this bulb may be accommodated within the limited root space of a 6” or 7-inch pot, provided it is well fed and watered.
I have found that growing 50 to 60 hybrid amaryllis during the past 15 years, using the summer garden culture, has been a most delightful experience.
They are easily grown and give handsome results when their requirements are met.
Ideal Conditions For Amaryllis Bulbs During Growing Season
A sunny space in the garden is always chosen for these bulbs, and the soil is generously enriched with leaf mold, manure, and bonemeal.
In the spring, when frost-free weather arrives and the soil has lost its severe chill, the amaryllis bulbs are planted in the garden.
The entire bulb is well covered with soil to prevent summer sun scalding.
Bulbs that have bloomed are carefully transferred from their pots into the garden.
Some of these bulbs will have made good root growth in the small pots, but most will have few roots at this stage so soon after flowering.
If rains are not frequent, additional moisture must be provided, and several top dressings of fertilizer during the growing season encourage abundant leaf growth.
Importance Of Good Leaf Growth For Storing Food
Blooming-size bulbs should make leaves about 30″ inches long.
Good leaf growth is essential because they store food in the bulb for future bud growth as the leaves grow.
The bulbs’ scales are the thickened lower parts of the leaves.
The greatest number of leaves grown during the summer will bring the maximum assurance of budding lop.
A bulb that makes 5 large leaves should produce flower buds because one leaf in each set of four does not form a perfect scale but ordinarily sends forth a bud.
Thus a bulb that grows 8 leaves, or more, often sends up two stapes.
The best bulbs have at least 4 flowers on each scape.
Older bulbs may have 12 or more leaves, but a third scape is quite rare unless they have been well fed.
Whether the flowers have short or deep trumpets, they will be lovely enough if the color is clear and brilliant.
Healthy bulbs do increase in size each growing season, but the buds feed on stored food in the scales, and hence after blooming, the bulbs have often shrunk considerably in size.
Summer Feeding Schedule
The larger the blossom, the more the bulb seems to shrink, and this points out the importance of the summer feeding schedule in the garden.
It is an advantage to leave the bulbs in the garden as long as possible in this latitude.
Usually, the garden period is from May 15 to September 15.
The bulbs would appreciate and make good use of an additional month or more in the garden because every bulb is still in lush growth by the middle of September.
It constantly strains the heartstrings of the gardener to interrupt their luxurious summer semester so soon.
The bulbs are lifted before the first frost in my garden because the first may be severe.
They are placed in single layers in clean wooden boxes.
If the temperature is safe, they are set in an airy garage while drying out, but the boxes are brought to the basement if there is frost at night.
All foliage and roots are left intact while drying. When the leaves are crisp-dry, they are gently removed, but the roots are not disturbed at this stage.
Labeling Hybrid Amaryllis
These are the general run of hybrid amaryllis, so they require only such a label in the garden.
But also having a few species and many seedlings, the labeling and lifting become a more complicated task.
It would be an oppressing garden experience if the labels would become confused at this point.
The bulbs that have come from various growers are marked until results are well noted.
Proper Temperature Requirements For Amaryllis
The bulbs are stored dry without any soil or moss.
Small bulbs are stored at a cooler temperature, but those of blooming size is kept at about 55° degrees Fahrenheit.
Some bulbs are moved to a warmer location for a long succession of bloom.
An excessively low-temperature retards or ruins buds, and warmer temperatures hasten budding.
Usually, my bulbs get a 4 months rest which is needed because they are busy forming buds during that dormant time.
As soon as a bud is visible, that bulb is potted, watered, and set in a light window.
As much sun as possible is provided a little later to give size and deep color to the blossom.
Any bulbs that do not show buds remain in the box until they can go into the garden to gain size and vigor during another summer.
The pots I use are only large enough to comfortably contain the bulb and sufficient soil to hold the bulb and the tall scape firmly.
The neck and top half of each bulb are set to be above the soil line in the pot.
The fertility of the soil in the pot is not so important when the bulbs are garden grown in summer and well-fed during that time.
After blooming, the pots are set in a cooler room to check for excessive growth, but they are given as much light as possible and only moderate moisture.
Cross-Pollination Of Amaryllis Seeds
Since I have around 200 other potted house plants, the post-blooming time of amaryllis is not watched over so constantly.
They should be kept growing well because they stay in the pots during one-third of their yearly cycle —four months—until they can again go into the garden for their glorious summer outing.
Several amaryllis growers are interested in hand pollination, and this flower offers vast possibilities.
Seeds are saved from flowers having the best form and color.
Cross-pollination is also practiced. Even though we do not expect the seeds to come true to the parents, it’s still fascinating to grow amaryllis from a cross you have made.
The seeds should be planted as soon as possible after ripening to give the seedlings more time to grow before the cold weather arrives.
Coarse sand is added to the garden loam for the pot seedbed. Seeds germinate in from 4 to 5 weeks.
The seedlings that are kept growing constantly should bloom when about 2 years old if they have been well fed and well grown.