Most folks say peony, and a few say piney, but no matter how it is pronounced, the same wonderful plant is meant. Why wonderful?
An almost impossible feat for a real enthusiast, the virtues of the peony are large, showy flowers, fragrance, lovely color range, attractive foliage throughout the growing season, ease of culture, and long life.
Various Peony Species
Only two species are native to North America, and they are:
- Paconia Browni, a dark maroon from the mountainous sections of California and Washington
- Paconia californica, purple, from Southern California
The other species are found in Europe, Africa, and Asia, many of which are from China and Japan.
Indeed, many of the tree peonies, in particular, possess a charm that reflects this Oriental origin.
In 1824, Lyman Glasscock of Elwood, Illinois, exhibited the first hybrid peony in this country. He called it Legionaire.
Since then, hundreds of fine varieties have been introduced, providing an ever-increasing range of height, form, size, color, and blooming time.
Two Peony Groups
Peonies can be classified roughly into two groups:
- The herbaceous peony
- The tree peony
Herbaceous peonies are the ones that are familiar to most of us, and they constitute the majority of those sold.
The entire plant of an herbaceous peony dies to the ground in winter. Flowers can be either single or double.
The tree peony is distinguished principally by its woody stems, which do not die back in winter.
Since buds are formed in late summer on the woody stems, they usually develop faster in the spring than the herbaceous type and provide us with early-blooming varieties.
Tree peonies are usually taller than most herbaceous and may have larger flowers.
Two groups of tree peonies are of major importance:
- European tree peonies, usually very double with broad foliage
- The Japanese type with single or semi-double blooms leaves much finer and thinner than the European ones, and usually with a cushion or circle of beautiful yellow stamens in the center of the blossom.
Peonies Are A Lifetime Investment
They grow in every state of the Union and all of Canada. However, they will not thrive in the subtropical sections of the southern states.
A few pointers on proper planting, selection, and care will help to assure success.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Select a sunny location. Soil should be well drained as peonies will not tolerate wet feet.
They need plenty of room for proper growth and should be placed a good distance from trees and shrubs that would rob their roots of nourishment.
Best Planting Time
The best time for planting is in the fall. This means September in the North and October or even November in the South.
When necessary, planting may be done until the ground freezes.
Spring planting is more successful in the North than in the South, but the roots must be stored properly, have not started into growth, and are planted early.
Improved packing and storage methods make spring planting more feasible than in the past.
Soil Preparation
Soil preparation is important as plants often remain in the same location for many years.
Dig a deep hole and mix some organic matter such as well-rotted manure, compost, or peat moss into the soil.
For each plant, add to the soil about 1 pound of bonemeal or 1/2 pound of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-5. This should be thoroughly mixed with the soil at the hole’s bottom.
Peonies are very tolerant of acidity, but if it is less than pH 6, it is well to incorporate a generous supply of finely ground limestone.
Depth Of Planting
Depth of planting is of vital importance, and it is at this point that many gardeners are misinformed or fail to heed the advice.
Herbaceous peonies should be planted so that the buds or “eyes” are only 2″ inches below the surface, and in the South, only 1″ inch below or with eyes at the soil surface.
Grafted tree peonies are planted so that the union between the understock and scion is 2″ to 4″ inches below the soil’s surface.
Proper depth is assured if these three steps are taken:
- Firmly tamp soil in the bottom of the hole.
- Make a pyramidal cone of soil in the center of each hole and firm well to avoid later settling.
- Place a stick across the hole with a piece of wood in the center that extends down into the hole exactly 2″ inches to guide proper planting depth.
Here’s what you need to do:
- Hold the plant over the mound of soil with roots spread out.
- Adjust cone of soil so that eyes of the plant are at proper level—just touching vertical stick guide.
- Then, still holding the plant, fill the hole with soil, working it in carefully about the roots with fingers.
- Tamp gently with your foot and water thoroughly when the hole is filled.
- When the soil has settled, mound soil a few inches over the plant for winter protection and to keep roots from heaving.
- If the mound is still present in spring, level soil about the plant.
Standard Division Practices
What kind of root should be planted?
A standard “division” or piece cut from the main plant has roots and eyes for next year’s growth.
A standard division has from 3 to 5 eyes. Smaller divisions will grow but take longer to flower.
If a friend offers you a 3 or 4-year-old peony, don’t plant it until you have divided it.
To divide an old plant (4 years or more), do the following:
- Cut off the stems in the fall almost to ground level.
- With a spade, cut around the plant about 6″ inches from the outer spread of leaves.
- Gently pry the plant loose from the soil.
- Remove soil about the crown by hand and then carefully wash the remaining soil away with a stream of water.
- Roots are brittle, so use care.
- Do not handle the plant for a few hours; the roots will become pliable.
- Cut roots back to about 6″ inches with a sharp knife.
Caution: Keep hand and body away from the path of the knife blade.
It takes considerable force to cut through outside the root, but the knife slides through easily—hence the danger.
Best divisions are usually found on the outer portion of the plant. Before cutting, ensure the piece to be cut will have good roots and at least three to five eyes.
Blooming Peonies On The First Spring
You can expect some of your peonies to bloom the first spring after planting, but don’t be too disappointed if they do not or if the stems are short.
It usually takes a year or two for plants to become established.
Remove all old flowers, leaving all foliage, and never allow the seed to form.
By the third year, many flowers will be amply produced.
Common Problems
Botrytis and other fungous blights may prevent buds from developing or opening usually.
When buds remain the size of marbles and turn hard and black, botrytis is the cause.
Cut back stems of herbaceous peonies to the ground in fall and burn them.
In early spring when shoots are about 6” inches tall, spray with a fungicide such as fermate or Bordeaux mixture and repeat several times until flowering. Wet rainy spring weather helps spread this disease.
Thrips, almost invisible insects, may disfigure blooms, particularly of late-flowering varieties. They are especially troublesome in the South.
When buds are small, begin spraying with the following solution:
- 6 teaspoons chlordane (liquid)
- 6 level teaspoons of 50% wettable DDT
- 1/2 cup of sugar or Karo syrup
- 3 gallons of water
Here’s what you need to do:
- Cut flowers when buds show color and the first petals start to unfold.
- Leave at least two bottom leaves on the portion of stem remaining on the plant.
- Remove leaves, except 2 upper ones, from the flower stem.
- If possible, take a pail of water to the garden and immediately plunge the flower stems up to the leaves.
- Keep in a cool dark place for several hours before arranging.
Fine Peony Varieties
A selection of all moderately priced and generally available fine varieties is listed below. In addition, check descriptions in any peony catalogs offered by specialists.
Early
- Festiva Maxima – white
- Monsieur Jules Elie – deep pink
- Richard Carvel – red
Mid-Season
- Le Cygne – white
- Kelway’s Glorious – white, crimson lines
- Solange – pale pink
- Therese – pale pink
- Phillippe Rivoire – crimson
Late
- Mrs. A. M. Brand – white
- Sarah Bernhardt – rose pink
- Martha Bullock – deep pink
- Ruth Elizabeth – red
Single And Japanese Types
- Krinkled White – white
- Ama-no-sode – pink
- Nippon Brilliant – red
- Sea Shell – light pink
44659 by Margaret C. Ohlander