Did you know that you can select apple trees to suit the size of your home grounds in much the same way you would choose a thoroughbred puppy?
With dogs, the size at maturity goes according to breed, with fruit trees depending on rootstock.
Apple Varieties: Rootstocks
Apple varieties are grafted on many different rootstocks each of which restricts the growth of the top to a varying degree. This is due to the limited range of root growth and slow-moving sap.
The pear has only one kind of dwarfing rootstock, but as many as 16 different kinds have been classified as apples.
They are known as Mailing rootstocks. Each of these types produces dwarf trees of a different size, ranging in graduated height from a very dwarf tree to a standard-sized tree.
Mailing Rootstocks Types
These Mailing rootstocks, named after the Mailing Research Station in England, are numbered from I to XVI, but not in any order as to size.
- Mailing IX. for example, is the most dwarf, producing an apple tree about 8 ft tall at maturity.
- On Mailing VII, a tree will grow over 10 feet tall;
- On Mailing I, 15 feet or more.
- Mailing V is somewhat smaller than I and II which produce semidwarf trees.
Apples grafted on Mailing rootstocks X to XVI are close to standard size when fully grown.
Variety of Apples Influence the Height of Fun-Grown Tree
The height of the fun-grown tree is also influenced by the particular variety of apples grafted on the root, as well as by culture and soil.
With such a variation in rootstocks, you will need to be specific when you order, stating the apple variety and the numbered rootstock.
Merely asking for a dwarf apple tree is no guarantee that you will get a true dwarf of the size you have in mind.
Varieties on Mailing IX Rootstock
If you want a true dwarf, ask for one of these varieties on Mailing IX rootstock:
- Baldwin
- Delicious
- Golden Delicious
- Grimes
- Jonathan
- Rhode Island Greening
All of these do well; McIntosh does to some extent.
If you want a semi-dwarf, specify Mailing rootstocks VII, III, or IV. Order only from a reliable nursery.
Dwarf Pears
Pears are grafted on the roots of the quince, not on the flowering shrub hut on the fruiting quince which has the dimensions of a small plum tree.
Angers: Variety of Quince
Angers, a French variety of quince, is often used.
A well-grown dwarf pear tree is a good investment; planted in fertile soil and given proper care, it will be good for 50 years.
Varieties of Dwarf Pears
Some of the varieties which have done well as dwarfs through the years are;
- Duchesse d’Angouleme
- Doyenne de Cornice
- Beurre d’Anjou
- Benue Bose
- Flemish Beauty
- Belle Lucrative
Another method of dwarfing standard fruit trees is to confine the roots in a container. By restricting root development in this way the growth of the top can also be specified in the same way that the rootstock of a limited range restricts the growth of the top.
Confining the Roots in a Container
Any fruit tree may be dwarfed by confining the roots in a container. Only apples and pears can be obtained commercially on dwarfing roots; there are no dwarf peaches, plums, or cherries on dwarfing roots.
Before planting a dwarf tree. prepare the soil by digging in plenty of well-decomposed manure or compost, supplemented with bonemeal or superphosphate. Work this into the bottom of the hole.
Dwarf Fruit Trees Spaces
Space dwarf fruit trees 10 to 12 ft apart, the others 15 to 20 ft apart. When setting a tree in place, be sure that the graft union, indicated by a swelling low on the stein, is above soil level.
If planted deeper, roots will start from the stem above the graft. The result will be a tall tree because the dwarfing effect will have been overcome and the dwarfing root smothered out.
A very dwarf fruit tree should have a support of some kind.
- Before planting, drive a heavy stake into the ground so the tree may be tied to it.
- Do not remove the lower branches of the tree.
- When they come in contact with the ground they will give the tree some support.
- Dwarf roots are close to the surface and have little spread or anchorage.
- Place a mulch of leaves or hay over the roots after planting to prevent surface freezing and drying.
Cream Pollination
Cross-pollination is necessary for the fruit set. This can be accomplished by planting more than one variety in the same vicinity.
Any two varieties will serve this purpose. Where there are many trees, it is good practice to include a variety known to be good pollinators such as Delicious.
Spring or Dormant Pruning
Contrary to popular belief, dwarf apple and pear trees can stand considerable pruning, even when young.
Purpose of Pruning
The primary purpose of spring pruning, or dormant pruning, is to develop good structural form.
The main branches of the tree should be evenly distributed so that a load of fruit may be carried evenly without breaking branches or pulling the tree in one direction.
Upright shoots should be cut back to those growing in an outward direction to spread the head of the tree and maintain some degree of openness in the center.
Corrective Pruning When Bearing Begins
Later, when bearing begins, the brunches will tend to spread with the weight of the fruit. Corrective pruning may then be necessary.
Object of Summer Pruning
In late June or early July, the object of summer pruning is to head hack any vigorous lateral branches springing from the main limbs.
This serves to encourage fruit bud formation. Another stimulant to fruit bud formation is full sunlight.
44659 by PJ Mckenna