Southwestern gardeners are fortunate. They can enjoy glamorous amaryllis blooms in their gardens and pots. South of Oklahoma, these bulbs can grow outdoors by observing a few precautions.
Amaryllis On Different Seasons
When the tops die off in the fall, we cut them off. Then cover the amaryllis beds with a 3” to 4” inch layer of stable bedding, half manure, and half straw. This mulch serves as a warm blanket and protects the plants during freezing weather.
I was initially hesitant about planting my Dutch hybrids in the ground, but after seeing them through a few brutal winters, I have no more fears.
During one winter, we had an icy three weeks, with temperatures ranging from 10° degrees Fahrenheit above to 9° degrees Fahrenheit below, but when spring came, my amaryllis appeared through their blanket of fertilizer mulch as solid and bright as ever. I give my pastel Dutch hybrids more secure locations, such as the south side of the house.
We leave it on the ground to rot rather than remove the mulch when spring comes. The manure and straw may be covered with a thin layer of corncobs, peanut hulls, cane pulp, etc. When cold weather comes, we add another layer of stable bedding.
Caring For Amaryllis Outdoors
Amaryllis care outdoors is simple. It likes a soil on the alkaline bide, which we have. It will get along in heavy soil but reward you with growth and beauty in good loamy soil. It responds best to a soil mixture of one-third medium sand, one-third humus, and one-third garden soil.
It is also especially fond of manure; the liquid or rotted forms arc best. Amaryllis requires good drainage in areas of heavy rainfall, but this is not necessary for semi-arid regions.
Amaryllis Pests
Although grasshoppers may attack amaryllis foliage at times and cutworms may eat into the buds, these attacks are not severe enough to require any spray.
I have sometimes found a tiny mite-like insect on bulbs I have received, which sucks the juices from the base of the growing leaves. However, these insects have been eliminated by dusting with 5 percent DDT or dusting sulfur before planting.
When warm weather comes, the newly purchased amaryllis — bulbs potted the previous fall for indoor bloom—are dumped out of their pots and planted in the garden. I set the top of the round portion of the bulb at least 4” inches below the surface.
I place my amaryllis among the foundation plantings, in the perennial border, or in any spot where there is at least a square foot of unoccupied space. From then on, they need no special care. They are watered and fed with the rest of the border.
Amaryllis Foliage
The foliage does not yellow but stays a luscious green all summer and is so attractive that it gives one’s beds a tropical look. The foliage is useful in flower arrangements and keeps its rich green for three weeks in the house.
The size of the flower varies. Some Dutch hybrids have huge flowers; some of the species have small, fragile ones, which are better for the arranger.
Among the species which have proved hardy under a winter mulch are:
- Amaryllis ackermani, large crimson flowers with green stripes;
- Amaryllis belladonna (equestris), bright red with green at the base;
- Amaryllis rutila, crimson and green;
- Amaryllis Johnsoni, red with a white stripe down the keel
- Amaryllis bifida wintered all right but has not yet bloomed
- Amaryllis ambigua is on the doubtful list
Amaryllis reticulate striatifolia must be wintered indoors. The bulbs did not freeze, but they did not make sufficient leaf growth to produce a bloom stalk. It blooms in the fall and makes its leaf growth during the winter.