For more than a century the camellia has been held in high regard as a magnificent evergreen shrub and a cut flower. Soon after its introduction to this country (about 1820) from Asia via Europe, it became the pampered pet of northern greenhouses and the aristocrat of southern gardens.
A little later, western homesteaders found conditions along the Pacific Coast ideally suited to its culture, and ancient trees still stand as a living testimonial to the suitability of that climate for these subtropical shrubs.
Widespread Growing
Today, however, the south and west can no longer claim a monopoly on outdoor camellia culture. The Camellia hobby has spread north and inland away from the coastal areas where a mild climate was once considered the prime requisite for success out-of-doors.
This extension of its natural range calls for ingenuity on the part of the grower who is pioneering in a new field of endeavor. The best way to meet the challenge is through an understanding of the plant’s requirements and the varying degrees of hardiness among the hundreds of varieties in commerce today.
As with all plants that are brought from one part of the world to another, their indigenous environment must be duplicated in their new home if they are to flourish.
Eastern Asia, the native habitat of the camellia, provides a:
- Fairly even temperature
- Acid soil
- Abundant rainfall
- High relative humidity
- Ample light
- Good drainage
These conditions form the basis for all camellia culture, indoors or out, north, south, east or west.
Select Hardiest Varieties
Of the requirements, the “fairly even temperature” is the most difficult to achieve.
We can mix the soil, supply soil and atmospheric moisture artificially, expose the plants to light and give them drainage, but outdoor temperature cannot be controlled.
The novice should, therefore, select the hardiest varieties for planting outside the camellia belt and keep plants strong and healthy to enable them to withstand wintery blasts.
In recent years, as the camellia area widened, valuable data on varietal selection and exposure has been accumulated. This information serves as a starting point for those who wish to grow camellias “off limits”, so to speak.
There are some sections of the country, of course, where camellias cannot be grown in the open under any circumstances, but in borderline regions where a reasonable amount of success can be expected, a few extra precautions will be rewarding indeed.
Growers have learned that a sudden drop in temperature is far more damaging than a gradual decline and that cold weather following a long, dry spell causes serious injury that can be lessened by watering the plants and ground around them when a freeze is predicted.
They know that camellias planted under or near tall evergreen trees, such as pine and oak, will receive protection without too much loss of light. Also, the deep organic mulch that insulates their roots against the hot summer sun serves the dual purpose of shielding them from cold in winter.
Strong Sun Scorches
Strong air currents must be avoided either by wise choice of the planting site or eliminated by a windbreak in the path of prevailing winds. Plants growing on the north or west side of buildings usually show less cold damage than those on the south or east.
This is because they are spared the strong morning sun that hastens thawing and scorches foliage if it is wet. Exposed plants must be shaded to produce a slow thaw.
As soon as the temperature rises above freezing the entire shrub should be sprinkled lightly to replace moisture lost in the thawing process.
Keep Plants Healthy
The condition of a plant at the time of a severe freeze has much to do with its reaction to cold.
Undernourished, diseased plants are more vulnerable than vigorously healthy ones.
Another determining factor in survival is the degree of dormancy that exists in the plant when it is subjected to cold. Those in active growth are less cold-resistant than those whose growth has been slowed by a series of moderately cold days preceding intense cold.
An early freeze on the heels of a long period of warm weather can be disastrous.
Every effort should be made to increase the vigor of the shrubs as winter approaches. Do not apply a nitrogenous fertilizer later than May. This rest period allows spring growth to harden naturally and discourages secondary growth in the fall.
Apply Potash To Harden Growth
In August, an application of one part sulphate of potash to five parts superphosphate will harden recent growth and improve the quality of the flowers.
Spread the mixture in a thin layer over the mulch until it reaches the outer limits of the branch spread. Then water the area slowly to dissolve the chemicals without washing them away.
Early or Late Kinds of Camellias
Many a triumph has been registered in doubtful localities by limiting the choice of varieties to the early and later flowering kinds and giving preference to the singles and semi-doubles in case you may be adventurous and want to try some of the mid-season bloomers.
Camellia sasanqua, a species embracing some 200 varieties, heads the list of hardy camellias available today. It is not uncommon for plants of this species to withstand zero weather, though their blossoms do not.
However, this is no problem because the peak of bloom is usually past before cold weather strikes.
Sasanquas Are Hardiest
Sasanquas grow rapidly and compactly into excellent specimen shrubs that bloom profusely for two full months every fall.
A sasanqua hedge, with its dark, glossy foliage and myriad flowers, is hard to surpass.
Though the typical flower form is a wide-open, single, with conspicuous stamens, there are scattered throughout the species semi-doubles and even doubles. An elusive fragrance, seldom found in any other camellia species, adds to its charm.
Syringe Them Often And Fertilize
Frequent syringing of top growth keeps foliage clean and glossy and is important to the development of flower buds which starts early and is a long, slow process.
Fertilize camellias just before spring growth starts, and repeat the application a month later.
You may use one of the plant foods recommended for azaleas and rhododendrons or mix your own according to the following formula which is widely used in the camellia belt:
- 5 parts cottonseed meal
- 3 parts superphosphate
- 2 parts sulphate of potash
In late summer apply the non-nitrogenous mixture of five parts superphosphate and one part sulphate of potash to harden new growth.
Some Common Camellia Pests
Camellia pests are relatively few. An oil emulsion spray combined with one of the trade preparations containing malathion will control scale, aphids and lacebug.
Spray plants in early spring and, if necessary, repeat the dose in about two weeks. If scale persists, spray again in the fall, but do not use oil when the temperature is in the high 80’s or below 50° degrees Fahrenheit.
Red spider mite sometimes attacks camellia foliage, causing it to appear dull and reddish in color. This seldom occurs on plants whose foliage is syringed frequently but, if it should become a problem, one of the miticides will check it.
There have been some scattered outbreaks of camellia petal blight in the south and west. This is a soil-borne disease that affects only the blossoms, not the plants. It causes flower petals to turn brown, starting at the center and spreading to the edges.
Control is by a rigid program of sanitation. Destroy all faded flowers. In blighted areas, the mulch should be removed and destroyed after the flowering season. Also, destroy the old mulch.
by C Bradley