Fertilizing Trees And Shrubs
In all parts of the South trees and shrubs should be fed now. A few gardeners remember to feed the shrubs. but most neglect the trees. Fertilizer that is applied now, when most species are developing leaf buds, is taken up immediately.
When applied in the fall or early winter, much of the fertilizer leaches away before the plants can make use of it.
Shrubs and very small trees may be fed by spreading the fertilizer in a circular pattern around the plant and then lightly working it into the soil. Larger trees are fed by placing fertilizer – in deep holes in the ground under the tips of the branches. Using a soil auger, make 4” to 10” inch-deep holes two feet apart.
The proper amount of fertilizer to use on each tree varies, but a general rule is 1/2 to 1 pound for each inch of trunk circumference 4’ feet above the tree’s base.
Setting Out Bare-Root Plants
This is the last month for safe planting of bare-root roses, shrubs and trees. In all areas, especially in the Rio Grande Valley, along the Gulf Coast and in Florida, planting of these materials should be completed.
Controlling Bagworms
Where red cedars and arborvitaes are growing, bagworms are usually found, their rough cocoons swinging from the branches. Gather these cocoons and burn them. The insects, when they become active in the spring, will completely defoliate young plants, often killing them.
Also check the red cedars for cedar apples, the hard, leathery brown masses, which later spread disease spores to apple trees and other plants.
Pruning Trees And Shrubs
All shrubs and small trees that flower in summer should be pruned this month. In the warmer areas along the Gulf Coast and in Florida you may begin this work the first week.
Through the Mid-South this should be started about the middle of the month. In the Upper South, during the last week. Caution: Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs in winter; wait until after they have bloomed.
Hardy Annuals
Several readers have written, asking for a definition of the term, “hardy” annuals.
This term is usually applied to those annual flowers that when sown outdoors in the fall will survive winter temperatures in the Mid-South.
They include alyssum. calliopsis, California poppies, calendulas. larkspur, lupines, poppies and annual phlox. Though these are usually planted in the fall, they can also be planted now.
Planting Day-Lilies
All through the South deciduous hemerocallis will be peeping above the ground late this month. With perfect safety they may be dug, separated and replanted.
It is also a good time to add to your day-lily collection, but your plants will have to come from southern growers for up North the ground is yet frozen and nothing can be dug. Acidantheras, cannas, gladiolus and montbretias may also be planted now.
Questions of the Month
Question: Why did my bearded iris bloom sparingly last year while at the same time growing vigorously and producing unusually heavy foliage?
Answer: This could be caused by too much shade or too much nitrogen in the soil. Bearded iris should have full sun.
When grown in shade the foliage is usually rank and the blooms few. Too much nitrogen produces the same results.
So be sure that your plants get full sun. If the soil is moderately fertile, apply only bone meal next season, after which a little balanced plant food may be used.
More on Growing Bearded Iris
Question: My roses look good in the fall, but many of them later seem to lose much of their foliage. By winter they begin to die and by spring many canes have died back almost to the ground. What is the cause of this?
Answer: Your trouble is probably defoliation by black spot. Roses that go into the winter with good, healthy foliage rarely die back. Keep black spot out of your garden by using a good fungicide during the summer and fall.
Question: When is the best time to take rose cuttings? I have had difficulty in rooting some of my climbers.
Answer: November and December are the best months to take rose cuttings, but you should be able to get some of them to root if taken early this month.
However, many climbers are more difficult to root than bush types. You could also try air-layering some climbers in May.
Question: Please tell me how deep to plant my camellias? I’ve been told to plant them at the same depth as they grew in the nursery, but another told me to plant them 3” or 4” inches higher.
Answer: Under normal conditions the depth at which the plant grew in the nursery is all right, but be quite sure that the plant is set no deeper. Sometimes when leafmold or peatmoss is used in the bottom of the hole, the plants sink several inches.
To prevent this, pack the material in the bottom of the hole firmly before placing the plant. If the roots are covered with burlap, unfasten the cord and turn the material back so that you can be sure of placing the plant at the proper depth.
Of course, if the soil drainage is poor, the plant should be raised accordingly. Camellias definitely do not tolerate poor drainage.More on Planting Camellias in the South