Clean up and paint up is the slogan for the owner of the home greenhouse this month. This means hard work, akin to struggle unless one can remember the colorful plants and flowers for which we are preparing a home.
It is much easier to prevent an influx of insects and spores of fungus diseases in the greenhouse than to get them to leave after they have gained a foothold. Therefore, it is of the utmost importance to keep our greenhouses clean.
After the rubble of pots, flats, and old soil has been removed, it is a good practice to turn on the full hose force to wash out every corner and crevice where termites, ants, slugs, and other pests may be hiding.
Then spray the walls and benches with DDT and chlordane before you bring in the Ioam from outside to use during the Winter.
This is also the time to replace cracked and broken glass and putty panes that may have slipped.
Zero weather, rain, sleet, and snow have a way of making themselves unwelcome in the greenhouse through these sometimes unsuspected cracks.
The sash should then be painted, not only on the outside but on the inside as well.
Getting The Soil Ready
The pleasure of having a greenhouse starts with getting the soil ready. I mix several wheelbarrows of compost with an equal amount of soil from the garden.
I keep separate piles of sand and peat moss, but these are not mixed with the loam until it is to be used.
This arrangement makes it easy to prepare soil mixtures to meet the requirements of the different kinds of plants I grow. The soil should be sterilized.
Normally, it is better to use some of the proprietary chemicals on the market made for this purpose since most of us do not have the equipment to sterilize by steam in a small greenhouse. However, if new soil is brought in each year, the risk of contamination is lessened.
Prepare For Cold Nights Ahead
It is also a good plan to prepare now for the cold nights ahead. Last year I secured a large felt blanket (100% wool), which was pulled down over a considerable portion of the glass of my Lean-to-greenhouse. It was surprising to find out how much heat can be saved this way.
In zero weather, it made a difference of more than 10 degrees. If the blanket is not left out in wet weather, it will last several years and soon pay for itself in dollars and peace of mind.
Time To Start Plants
It is better to take cuttings of such plants as coleus and geraniums since they have blossomed out-of-doors all Summer is generally too large, and the sterns have become woody.
In any case, these old plants will not bloom again until Spring. Cuttings will make better-looking plants and will bloom much earlier.
Plants in the Greenhouse
Plants, such as azaleas, are left in the greenhouse, which is cooler until the buds show color. Tuberous-rooted begonias that have not bloomed may be brought inside before the first frosts.
If the glass is shaded, it will continue to bloom well into October or later. Small plants of calendulas, antirrhinum, and stocks may also be brought indoors.
It is better to start plants, especially for this purpose, since sometimes the plants which did not bloom in the garden were set back for reasons such as lack of water or nutrients in the soil.
These annuals require a cool temperature and are, of course, always useful for cutting.
Some of the hardy chrysanthemums can be potted. For some reason, they bloom later when taken into the greenhouse. Also, a place should be made for the later blooming greenhouse varieties of chrysanthemums.
Several flowers may start this month to bloom from January on. Nemesia is excellent and will last several weeks when grown at about 50° degrees Fahrenheit.
Cynoglossum, the Chinese forget-me-not, also does well, and salpiglossis and schizanthus can be counted on to make a good showing.
Stocks, sown in September, will bloom in the latter part of January: the non-branching varieties are the best for greenhouse growth.
The doubles are the most desirable, and if care is used in selecting the plants, 80% to 90% percent of doubles may be secured.
Select the largest and most vigorous plants. The doubles always have indented leaves, whereas the entire, marginal leaves of the singles are smooth when small. All these annuals grow best at about 50° degrees Fahrenheit.
Some Bulbs For Later Blooming
Do not forget to start some bulbs for later blooming. Anemones may be potted now; several tubers should be planted in a bulb pan in fairly light soil.
They should be grown cool (50° degrees Fahrenheit) to produce a well-developed root system and not overwater them.
Ranunculus may be grown similarly, although they may be kept in the cold frame until January or February.
Coleus and Geraniums Cuttings
It is better to take cuttings of such plants as coleus and geraniums since geraniums which have blossomed out-of-doors all Summer are generally too large, and the sterns have become woody.
In any case, these old plants will not bloom again until Spring. Cuttings will make better-looking plants and will bloom much earlier.
Narcissus, Tulips and Hyacinth Bulbs
Narcissus, tulips, and hyacinth bulbs are also indispensable in the greenhouse. These may be started in September or as soon as received. If early bloom is desired, it is necessary to purchase pre-cooled bulbs.
In general, bulbs should be planted in pots or bulb pans at least four inches deep, and the tip or nose of the bulb should be covered with an inch of soil. One half-inch covering over hyacinth bulbs is sufficient.
For Good Rooting System
After the bulbs have been planted and the pots watered, place them in a cool, dark place to form a good root system.
The pots may be either buried in a cold frame and covered with sand and several inches of leaves or kept in a cool cellar at a temperature not over 50° degrees Fahrenheit. About 8 weeks are necessary to get a sturdy root system.
Last year I put mine under the benches in the greenhouse, and, as I did not turn on any heat until January unless the outside temperature was in the 40s, I had excellent results.
When brought out into the sunlight, the leaves showing above ground were about two inches long and pale green. However, they soon turned to a healthy blue-green and, in a few weeks, were redundant with bloom.
Remember When Watering Bulbs
It is well to remember when watering bulbs that it is the roots that must receive the water. Although the topsoil may appear wet enough, it may be quite dry an inch or so below the surface. Even a short period of dryness at the roots will blast the buds of bulbs.
I like to water nearly all potted plants from the bottom whenever possible. This is easily done by placing the pots nearly to their rims in a bucket of water, and by capillary action, the water soon reaches the surface.
September is not too early to order seeds we wish to have on hand when planting time arrives.
I start Japanese iris, delphiniums, Shasta daisies, and tuberous-rooted begonias in November since I like to get an early start when growing them in my greenhouse, kept cool at 50° to 60° degrees Fahrenheit.
44659 by Kenneth W. Houghton