Clematis vines — one of the most beautiful of all our flowering vines is not too difficult with a little “know-how.” Like – Can you over water Clematis?
A few years ago, after considerable failure on my part, I searched for advice on growing clematis. I received wide differences of opinion as to various difficulties and their remedies.
As a result, I believe that climate and soil have a great deal to do with the problem.
Louis Vasseur Knew the Answers
The late Louis Vasseur, a very successful grower, knew this subject. He laid particular stress on not allowing manure in any form or soil to which manure had been added in the slightest amount to contact the roots.
I have read many articles advising the use of well-rotted manure, but my experience makes me feel — in the neighborhood of Boston, at least — that he was right. or Do clematis like acid soil? Possibly, the slightly-acid soil which I have has something to do with it.
On the other hand, a lady from Michigan writes that she believes the ease with which she has grown clematis is due to the rather limey soil.
At any rate, here is Louis Vasseur’s recommendation for planting and treatment. Note his emphasis on the need for water. I find it vital to soak the plants well in dry spells.
Preparing The Soil Thoroughly
In the bottom of an ample trench two-and-a-half to three feet deep, I put a six-inch layer of coarse coal ashes (sand, broken bits of old plaster or cement, or crushed bricks will do as well).
Clematis like best a good, fibrous, or sandy soil, so I mix fresh garden loam of this type, not rich in manure, with one-third by volume of well-rotted leaf mold, or half-rotted cocoa shells and a very liberal amount of bone meal.
Then I fill the trench with this mixture and let it settle down. Don’t split or break the vines already growing or those still dormant. I set my plants with the collar one inch below the general bed level – no deeper.
As soon as the plants are in, one of the main things is to tie up the branches to a support and give a good watering.
These beautiful plants love water, but water that does not stay on them long. Water has little to do with wilting – manure is its cause. The manure bacteria attack the plants; this is why I say use a loam poor in organic matter.
Wilt Is the Bugaboo
He points out, as I, too, believe to be the case that the big problem is wilt. It is most discouraging to see a vine one day alive, seemingly healthy and full of blooms, only to find the leaves drooping and dying the next day.
That is wilt. Mr. Vasseur has the following to say about the matter, and it has been my experience with clematis that his suggested remedy usually works:
- The worst of all diseases is wilt. Is it controllable? Yes.
- Can a plant affected by wilt be made to survive? Yes.
How? In early March, as new growth is visible, spray the whole plant and soil with a good Bordeaux mixture. This helps control bacteria attacks which may be lurking in manure around other plants near the clematis.
A second spraying, three weeks later, helps even more.
Cut all the parts of a plant affected with wilt down to the ground. Then, if the soil is dry, douse it thoroughly with a solution of 2.5 ounces of sulfate of iron well dissolved in two gallons of water. After one week, give the plant a good top dressing of nitrate of soda and water well.
A few days later, strong shoots will show up and grow. Many people have written to tell me this saved the plants they loved. Every Fall, September to October 10, I give a liberal top dressing of sulfate of iron to all my plants and they seem to like it.
Considerable Trouble of Nematodes
Although the suspicion is questionable, I have a feeling that they may have some connection with wilt. Accordingly, this past Spring I poured some Dowfume around the roots of my clematis. Whether or not this scored in connection with nematodes, we had very little wilt during the Summer.
I find, too, that heaping coal ashes four or five inches high around the base of the plants keep away mice in Winter and cutworms in the Spring.
Easier Varieties of Clematis To Grow
- Clematis paniculata – one which seems to give the least trouble of all
- Duchess of Albany – a fast-spreading, consistently-blooming variety, is most attractive
- Clematis jackmanii & Clematis Montana Rubens – the common purple and seems to be with tougher resistance to wilt
- Clematis texensis – the same applies
The other varieties are more tricky and I think need more care, but they are all so beautiful they are worth any extra pain. The stalks of clematis are brittle; on several occasions, I have destroyed a vine by carelessly breaking them off near the roots when weeding.
They should be tied carefully to a stake, beginning at the root and at intervals along with the entire height of the trellis, the wall, or any other support to which they are attached.
44659 by Louis Bachrach