Phlox is one of our most versatile garden flowers, suitable for practically any location on the home grounds.
There are the low-growing, sun-loving, trailing forms, ideal for sunny banks, rocks, and garden walls, and shade-loving types, such as the spring phlox or wild sweet william (Phlox divaricata).
Because of varying heights, the early and midsummer upright types may be used in the foreground of shrub borders or the middle and background of flower borders.
Then there are the annuals, forms of annual or Drummond phlox (P. drummondii), which, with their great range of color, are useful for edging purposes, masses in the foreground, and cutting.
Versatile Color Range Of Phlox
Phlox is also versatile in color range, though there is still a need for true blues.
At present, the so-called blues are chiefly in tones of violet or violet-purple. However, getting the yellow or buff of the annuals into the perennial forms may be possible.
The fact that phlox is typically an American plant interest the group. All the species, except Siberian phlox (P. siberica), are native to the United States, and that one, Dr. Edgar T. Wherry, holds “to be an American element in the Asian flora.”
While in its early history, numerous varieties were produced in this country, the greater number were later of foreign introduction, notably from Lemoine in France and Pfitzer in Germany.
At present, new kinds are coming from England, the result of work by such men as H. J. Jones and B. H. B. Symons-Jeune.
New Varieties
Many growers are producing new varieties. Especially noteworthy is the work of Mr. and Mrs. J. Herbert Alexander of Middleboro, Massachusetts, in connection with the trailing phlox (P. nivalis) and related forms.
In recent years, they have produced at least 16 varieties. For example, in the moss or ground phlox (P. subulata) section, they list 26 varieties, 10 of which are their originations.
In the hybrid trailing phlox (P. nivalis) group are eight varieties, six of which were produced by the Alexanders.
The following are popular varieties of P. nivalis:
- Alexander’s Beauty, bright pink
- Alexander’s Surprise, rose-pink
- Alexander’s White Perfection
- Camla, clear, soft pink
- Elaire Alexander, rose pink
- Dixies Brilliant, approaching red
Choice varieties of P. subulata include:
- Alba
- Alexander’s Favorite, light rose
- Alexander’s Pink, clear, soft pink
- Atropurpurea, red
- Crimson Beauty (said to be the same as Atropurpurea)
- Emerald Cushion Pink, deep rose
- Rosea
- Vivid, bright pink with small, dark eye
- White Delight, large flowers
The availability of varieties of the showy summer phlox (P. paniculata [decussata]) is interesting. A total of 82 were considered.
Based on the frequency of listing, the following varieties appear to be the most popular. The number in parentheses indicates the number of catalogs in which the variety was listed.
- Brigadier (6) carmine-red, suffused pink, with small red-eye
- Charles Curtis (6) clear, intense red
- Elizabeth Arden (6) dwarf, pink with a red eye
- Africa (5) was introduced by Pfitzer about 1908
- Carmine-red with the darker eye
- Leo Schlageter (5) brilliant scarlet
- Mary (Marie) Louise (5) excellent white
Others include:
- Sir John Falstaff (5) salmon-pink, an outstanding variety
- Daily Sketch (4) salmon-pink with red-eye
- Pinkette (4) pale pink with darker tubes
- San Antonio (4) bloodred
- Blue Boy (3) is possibly the best of the so-called blues
- Border Queen (3) pink
Yet others are the following:
- Harvest Fire (3) salmon-orange
- Lillian (3) salmon-pink
- Prime Minister (3) White with the crimson eye
- Purple Heart (3) dark blue-purple
- Spitfire (3) introduced as Frau Alfred Von Mauthner) orange-scarlet with small, red eyes
Fifteen varieties were listed in two catalogs only, while 49 appeared but once. Some varieties of recent origin will have a wider distribution in the future when stock is more plentiful.
P. suffruticosa Miss Lingard was listed in only two catalogs. However, with its beautiful white flowers in cylindrical panicles, its second period of bloom, and its freedom from disease, it is an outstanding variety that deserves wider use.
The summer-flowering types do well in full sun, even if such a location may cause “burning” or fading of certain flower colors. They do better in medium loams yet will grow in heavy clay loam.
Pinching hack the shoots before flower buds will delay the season of bloom and produce more laterals, though this eliminates the terminal panicle of bloom.
Divide Regularly
Propagation by division is the common method. Divide the clumps in spring or fall every third or fourth year, discarding the hard, woody centers.
When dividing in the autumn, mulch the plants to prevent damage by winter’s alternate freezing and thawing.
Division in the spring may retard the season of bloom somewhat. Plants purchased in the spring probably have been in storage over winter, whereas those bought in the fall will be field-grown clumps.
Raising From Seed
Raising plants from seed is worthwhile since one never knows what to expect. Seeds sown outdoors in the fall will germinate the following spring and may even bloom the same season.
Water and Plant Food
Phlox likes an abundance of water and plenty of plant food. A 10-10-10 fertilizer, applied at the rate of three to four pounds per 100 square feet, forked or spayed into the soil when a new planting is being made or worked into the soil between the clumps, is beneficial.
In dry seasons, a liberal soaking once a week will prevent wilting and encourage the growth of foliage and flowers.
Controlling Insects and Diseases
Fifteen insects may cause injury to phlox, the summer-flowering kinds in particular. The two-spotted mite has a wide distribution and causes great injury.
Mites
This mite is much smaller than aphids and is usually found on the lower surface of the leaves. It causes injury by sucking the plant juices and may weaken the plant if it fails to bloom.
Syringing with a fine, powerful spray of water will dislodge the mites but not eradicate them. Aramite is recommended as a spray or dust as a miticide.
Malathion, one of the phosphate compounds, may also be used and is sometimes combined with other materials.
Direct the spray or dust upward to strike the mites by applying either chemical. Again, be certain to follow the directions on the container.
Six-Spotted Leafhopper
The six-spotted leafhopper, which attacks many plants, transmits a virus. The adult insect, greenish-yellow, with six black spots, passes the winter in the egg stage. Then, the adults feed on the plant juices, infecting the plant with the virus.
DDT dust will control the leafhoppers, but diseased plants are best destroyed since they still harbor the virus.
Thrips
Thrips, minute insects, injure the florets causing distortion and discoloration. Dusting with DDT before the buds open should help control the insect.
Rarely do the bulb and stem nematodes may cause injury. Called eelworms, they are responsible for distorted new growth and gall-like structures on the roots.
The wisest method of control is to remove and destroy infected plants. Then, use a nematicide on the soil before replanting.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is most commonly seen as gray, spotty areas on leaves or stems of both annual and perennial forms. Some varieties are more resistant than others. Overcrowding and poor air circulation favor its spread.
Dusting with sulfur (dusting grade) or karathane will control it in the early stages. Silk or nylon hose or an inexpensive duster may be used to apply it. Make the first application when the disease first appears.
Image/s (Page 13)
Phlox Fairy King is a soft lavender
You can always depend upon Phlox for mid-summer color.
44659 by Clark L. Thayer