That period between Sept. 15 and Oct. 15 is best for planting, transplanting, or dividing peonies, and the earlier they can be put into the ground the sooner they become accustomed to it and growth begins.
Planting Peonies
Considerable controversy on peony planting dates was raised some years ago when one grower stipulated, in instructions sent with plants purchased, that peonies “should be planted Sept. 15—other dates being uncertain.”
This has been proven erroneous countless times since. Still, it is generally agreed among hobbyists and commercial growers that fall planting between Sept. 15 and Oct. 15 is the optimum period since the ground is still warm in most parts of the country, and fall rains take care of needed nourishment before the new plants go into winter.
Getting the plants in before winter freezes start may seem needless since peonies normally like cold winters, making them unsuitable plants for tropical areas.
However, the practice has shown that the early growth in the first year can be injured by extreme cold, and the plants fare best when given some winter protection during the first year.
It is best to secure good, healthy, plump roots from your dealer with at least three and preferably five “eyes” or buds.
Prepare the planting hole at least 18″ inches deep and wide. Mix a little bone meal with the removed soil, about one cupful to each bushel of soil.
Hold the root in the planting hole with one hand, with the strongest or uppermost eve about two inches below the level of the surrounding soil.
Draw the prepared soil back into the hole, firming it under the roots so they will not settle any deeper than the suggested two inches.
Check the planting depth by laying a board across the planting hole and measuring the depth from the uppermost eye to it.
Water the area well, firming the soil around the roots until the hole is filled. No other protection or treatment of the new plant should be necessary.
On average, you should not expect to bloom until the second year after planting.
Blooming Expectations and Moving Peonies
Many hobbyists ask about moving or transplanting peonies. Peonies resent disturbance of any kind and moving a clump as you might a piece of furniture in the home merely to try a new landscape arrangement is often the cause of peony failure.
But if the clump has been in one place too long or is too large, it is best to divide it rather than move the entire clump.
Dividing Peonies
To divide, dig up the clump and clean off most of the soil clinging to the roots. This will expose the little purplish buds or eyes—each should develop into good stalks.
Divide the clump into as many sections as possible, each containing at least three but preferably five eyes.
Each division should develop into husky flower-producing plants in about two years. Plant each division separately, choosing a site with sunlight at least half the day and away from the root systems of trees or shrubs that would rob the peony of the natural food in the soil.
After planting, there is little to do but sit back and let Nature take over. Peonies are surprisingly hardy and undemanding. Many have been known to have survived for long times with scant attention.
Peony Maintenance
Peony failures can be most often attributed to improper planting, too rich a diet, excessive cultivation, and an eagerness to remove the old stalks when the plant has finished its annual blooming.
As peonies break through the soil in the spring, eagerness to clean up the clump by cultivating can be disastrous. Remove encroaching weeds by hand pulling rather than a hoe.
As a general rule, most peony plantings will receive enough nourishment from average soils with, possibly, a handful of superphosphate added to an established clump annually.
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers unless tests indicate a positive deficiency. Otherwise, the plant will develop more foliage than flowers.
Don’t worry about letting the foliage remain after the last flowers have faded or been picked. It must ripen to complete the manufacturing process within itself and restore energy to the roots.
Besides, the foliage will remain green and attractive for a long time and, in fall, will turn a splendid mahogany color before finally becoming brown.
After the foliage browns, it is the proper time to cut the spent stalks. Be sure to cut old stalks just below the soil’s surface, leaving no stubs.
44659 by Mark M. Taylor