I first saw Fittonia verschaffeltii pearcei several years ago in a conservatory.
Its olive-green foliage and red veins intrigued me, and I began searching the catalogs for a source.
At last, I was the proud possessor of a plant but knew nothing of its care.
Caring For Fittonia Verschaffeltii Pearcei
I did not give it enough water in time, so there were three lanky stems with a few leaves at the end.
I decided to cut the ends and try to root them as well as to see if the old plant after being cut back would put out new growth (it did not.)
I put one cutting in water, one in the sand, the other I placed in a terrarium where a miniature woodland scene was arranged.
Though the leaves were too large to be in scale, they were an addition to the garden’s color.
The first two cuttings died, and subsequent trials gave the same results, but the third was a joy from the day it was placed in that covered garden.
Potted And Well-Rooted Plant
In time, it became a well-rooted plant and was potted. Then until its roots were established, I kept it covered with an inverted rose bowl.
After a month, the bowl was lifted a bit to admit air, and layers of cardboard were placed on either side of the pot for the bowl to rest on.
A few days later, more cardboard was added, raising the bowl more and giving more air until the bowl was removed at the end of three weeks.
I watched the plant closely for the next few hours for any tendency toward wilting, but there was none.
Had there been, I would have replaced the bowl and lifted it higher with more cardboard or wooden blocks until the transition could be made successfully.
Later I learned when the terrarium was filled with just the Fittonia slips that, when they had rooted and were ready to transplant, the top could be shifted a little at a time until it could be taken off completely.
Transplanting Of Little Fittonia Plants
After 2 or 3 weeks, with the silk top off, the little plants were conditioned and ready for transplanting, the same as any other rooted cutting.
What has always seemed so strange to me is that once those rooted cuttings are well started after transplanting, they are not a bit fussy about their requirements.
They like loose, rich soil – sand, peat, and rich loam or compost in about equal proportions and plenty of water.
While an east window with its early morning sun is always a choice location, I have grown them in north windows where there was light but no sun.
Argyroneura Variety
In Alabama, I saw a pot of the green and white variety, argyroneura, growing in a south window, and it was a showpiece.
Often this argyroneura variety is spoken of as being harder to grow than verschaffelli Pearce, but that has not been my experience.
Both root easily as cuttings or can be started from a leaf placed in a terrarium or any covered glass container with peat and sand in equal parts as a growing medium.
Successful Growth
While I have grown them successfully under normal living room conditions, I would not recommend them where the air is excessively hot and dry.
A third kind is listed in some of the catalogs that specialize in unusual house plants, called verschaffelli, which has Clark green leaves with red veins.
That is on my “must-have list,” for if it has foliage as beautifully veined and quilted as the two I have, it will be well worth growing.
Oxalis Rubra
Any flower lover knows the joy of finding some plant they have never before seen.
I first saw this plant at an art exhibit in an old house with windows to the floor, and on every window sill, there were two African violets and three Oxalis Rubra alba.
Unusual Shape And Beauty of Oxalis
Needless to say, I do not remember too much about the pictures, for I was entranced with the unusual shape and beauty of the oxalis.
How I wanted one, but convention prevailed, at least for a few hours.
Later the idea came to me: I was a stranger, and they would probably never see me again. Why not go back and at least make an effort to purchase a plant?
They could not do more than saying no to me. So back I went and emerged with my prize package.
New York Botanical Garden
The New York Botanical Garden came to my rescue with the identification, stating that there was a rosea and the white one.
Some oxalis has bulbs or tubers, but this plant grows from a scaly rhizome and is most accommodating in its requirements.
It blossoms the year around in any exposure, whether a light, north window, a sunny, south, or an east porch where it summers.
It requires lots of water and spongy soil with plenty of peat and some sand.
Leaves And Flowers Of Oxalis
The leaves are plain green, clover-like, with the outside edge straight, making a triangle of each of the three parts of the compound construction.
The leaves and flowers close at night or in cloudy weather.
This variety multiplies rapidly, and the crowns tend to rise above the soil level. Sometimes more soil can be added, or repotting may be necessary.
Naegeli Zebrina Discolor
Naegeli zebrina discolor has such striking foliage that it immediately draws attention to itself.
Even if it never blossomed, it would be well worth growing.
The leaves are large as 5” inches long and 5” inches wide across the broad section of their heart shape.
The color is a light green overlaid with plum veinings and hairs that give it a very velvety appearance.
Blossoms Of Naegeli
The blossoms are tubular, bright red, red-dotted, and with yellow throats.
They appear alternately on a stem in a terminal cluster well above the foliage and last for many days.
Though the rhizomes are a bit larger than those of the Achinienes, they are closely allied and require the same cultural treatment.
They may be left dormant for a time or planted when received using shallow pots and planted a one-half inch deep in rich, well-drained soil.
Transplanting
Here where we have heavy clay, I do not trust these little rhizomes to its mercies but use equal parts of sand, peat, and leaf mold.
Later, when transplanting to individual pots, I add some clay and cow manure to the above mixture.
The plants need support for the best effect as they are inclined to be prostrate; the leaves are heavy but very beautiful.
Method Of Propagation
Leaves will root in water, but rather slowly. However, my favorite method of propagation is to insert the leaf stem in a mixture of peat and sand, moist but not wet, in a covered glass container.
A gallon glass jar or an abandoned aquarium with glass cut to cover the top make excellent containers.
Here in their own little nursery, they care for themselves until new little plants have developed from the leaf stem and are large enough to transplant.
The covered glass containers create their own moisture and very rarely need watering.
However, should the top be shifted and more moisture is needed, spray with warm water, preferably rainwater.
Begonia Sutherland
This is a tuberous begonia from South Africa and one of the parents of welioniensis; in fact, the offspring is better known than the parent.
When I first saw this begonia several years ago, I was delighted with its fragile quality.
Trelloniensis Rosea
In general, its form is like trelloniensis Rosea; its dainty leaves are a lighter green, delicately serrated, and sparkling like crystals in the sunlight.
The stems are red, and the blossoms single and apricot.
In its natural habitat, it grows in damp, shady places and blossoms from December to February, but in pot culture, it is considered a Summer bloomer.
I made several attempts before a cutting would grow for me. In desperation, three slips were placed in a terrarium, and not only did they root and grow, but to my surprise and delight, several months after those plants were potted, two more little plants appeared.
I had fun watching them develop from the first small round leaves to the mature pointed ones.
Even now, another little plant has appeared and will soon be large enough to transplant.
Potted Cuttings
The potted cuttings were summered on an east porch and received morning sun.
The leaves developed until they were 5″ inches long, and each branch had its share of dainty blossoms.
Then while I was away in August, something happened. I don’t know what, but all but one branch looked like it had boiling water poured.
I didn’t know just what to do, the one branch was so fresh and firm it did not look like it wanted to rest, so I cut it all back except that one branch.
It started to grow; the branch continued blooming, and the new growth soon budded.
Bulbs During Autumn
In the Autumn, when the nights began to get cool, it was placed in a south window where it had blossomed for four months and showed no sign of wanting to rest.
The older the plant, the larger the bulb, which has roots attached to the side, while the bottom is smooth and rounded.
In planting the bulbs or tubers, there are times when it is difficult to know which is the top but the bottom is the smoother surface.
I use fairly rich soil of clay, cow manure, sand, and a bit of bonemeal.
Once a week, additional liquid fertilizer is used, and the soil is kept damp but not wet.
I do not know what this plant’s rest schedule will be, but when it begins to lose its leaves and branches, I will know that is its signal.
44659 by Ferne S. Kellenberger