Lilies in pots—of course! The idea is not new. Florists have been planting lilies in pots, probably since lilies were discovered. Books have been written about this, formulas given, and procedures devised.
I am no horticulturist nor a learned expert, but I do like lilies, and just to make sure you enjoy these lovely flowers as much as possible, I would like to add my little speech on behalf of lilies in the living room.
Housewives with green thumbs can grow an amazing variety of plants in the house during winter. Even some men are good at it, too.
But after the usual successes with geraniums, African violets, begonias, and Paper White Narcissus, the experimenting gardener looks around for something more challenging.
May I suggest lilies? They are rewarding bulbs both indoors and out.
Growing and Experimenting Lilies
Not that lilies are difficult to grow in pots. Why I’ve seen beginners, who hardly knew which end of a bulb was up, grow a pot of Enchantment to sparkling perfection.
But for forcing bulbs in the house—which is an unnatural procedure for any plant—there are a few prescribed rules for optimum results.
The first rule, of course, is to use healthy, plump, vigorous bulbs either from your garden (Probably you have plenty of extras—lilies are prolific) or from commercial dealers. Varieties are endless, with new ones each year.
You can plant a glorious Golden Splendor, Black Dragon, or Imperial Crimson—but where would you put it?
Better stay with the shorter, quicker, and astonishingly adaptable Mid-Centuries, like:
- Enchantment
- Prosperity
- Harmony
- Croesus
- Destiny
- Lovely new Golden Chalice hybrids
If you enjoy experimenting, you might try some of the species of lilies. Our Easter lily, L. longiflorum, is a “natural” for forcing.
These can also be attempted:
- The new Easter Parade
- Croft
- Ace
- The Coral lily
- L. pumilum, and its variety Golden Gleam
- Star Lily
- L. concolor
- L.c. coridion
- L. wardi
- L. rubellum
The species may not be quite so “tried and true” as the vigorous Mid-Centuries, but they are satisfying.
For that matter, why not experiment with many different kinds of lilies? I do. If they are not a big success, you can always plant them in the garden.
That’s what’s so nice about this sort of experimenting. There is nothing to lose. All your potted lilies, whether or not they have bloomed, can be planted in the garden where they will delight you with flowers for years to come.
Growing Conditions
The requisite for success is plenty of light and a cool, humid atmosphere. That doesn’t sound like average living room conditions, does it? A greenhouse, of course, is the ideal place for growing potted lilies.
(No, I don’t have one either.) A cool sun porch or spare room works practically as well. Very little heat is necessary—cool growing conditions will cause the lilies to develop more slowly, but they will be sturdier and stronger.
Temperature and Light Requirement For Houseplant Lilies
If you do try potted lilies in the living room, this is how you can make it comfortable for plants:
The temperature can be kept low —not over 70° degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime and down to 50° degrees Fahrenheit at night.
Humidity can be increased by setting pots on trays of perlite or pebbles, with water added, and the foliage of the plants can be sprayed occasionally with an atomizer.
All the light possible is what lilies like; that is another reason why a sunporch works so well. A bay window, a corner window, or a room with windows on three sides is good.
If natural light is dim, supplement it with light from fluorescent tubes made especially for horticultural use.
Importance of Rest For Lily Bulbs
In the natural cycle of a lily plant, the bulb spends several months in the ground, just resting.
Some period of rest is necessary, but the time can be shortened with no ill effects. Six weeks in a cool temperature is sufficient for the early types and about eight weeks for others.
You can precool bulbs from your garden or dealers in your home refrigerator. Starting early in September, lift the lily plants, and after shaking off excess soil and clipping back stems, place the bulbs in polyethylene bags of damp peat moss, fold over the tops or tie loosely, and store in a back corner of the refrigerator for at least six weeks—more will not harm.
You may order commercially pre-cooled bulbs (advertised as such) almost any time in late fall or winter and save precious refrigerator space.
Lilies in Pots
Lilies, like clay or plastic pots, are scrubbed and sterilized with a Clorox dip. Put an inch of pebbles in the bottom (drainage is important with lilies) and cover with an inch or so of soil mix.
Use rich, porous soil. A mixture of one-third of each loam, sand, and peat is also good. Place the bulbs —one or more in a pot, spreading the roots carefully, and cover with soil.
Label, water thoroughly, and after allowing the pot to drain, either plunge it outside in a frame or protected spot in the garden, covering it with peat or leaf mold, or enclose it in a plastic bag and keep it in a cool place, like the cellar hatchway until the bulbs sprout.
Care of Lilies
Lilies need light as soon as they sprout. If they surprise you with a big white shoot, give light gradually until they color up; then, all the light is possible until blooming.
Water carefully, and feed with a liquid fertilizer every ten days to two weeks. Turn plants occasionally so stem and flower buds are well balanced.
The Mid-Century and Golden Chalice types will flower in eight to ten weeks. Kept on the cool side, the buds should last for a couple of weeks.
44659 by Virginia Howie