Editors Note: This article was first published in 1961 but does give us some history of growing Camellias.
The fame of camellias in the deep South and along the Gulf Coast has been worldwide for more than a hundred years.
The magnificent old plants at Magnolia, Middleton and other long-established gardens in very mild regions were, and are, admired by many thousands of travelers every year. Stories of their beauty and tenderness spread to more thousands who envied those fortunate few who could grow these prized shrubs out of doors.
It is a shame that this was true. Not that people admired these magnificent plants, but that they saw them only in regions of very mild winters. They jumped to a seemingly logical conclusion—they believed that camellias could be grown only in such mild climates.
Camellias in Great Britian
They were in great company in this, for just about every gardener here and abroad believed it. However, it wasn’t until the coal shortage of World War II that the British tried to grow camellias outdoors in even the mild regions of Great Britain.
Camellias are much hardier than most people realize. But, unfortunately, it has taken all too many decades to realize this. Unfortunately, many of us have needlessly denied ourselves the pleasure of growing them in our gardens during all this time.
Nov this is not to say that we can plant any variety of camellia in, let us say, Syracuse or Chicago and have success. These prized evergreens are not that hardy. Such a planting would fail, there is no doubt.
Well then, how hardy are they? Frankly, we don’t know. But, the encouraging part of this story is that we are beginning to find out.
Dr. Zimmerman of the Boyce Thompson Institute has been growing a few kinds of camellias at Yonkers, N. Y., for about 30 years. He has grown them in a very protected spot, and he is satisfied evidently if he gets one year of good bloom out of several. He has been a true pioneer and has done much to open our eyes to what can be done.
Not everyone has his zeal, nor would all of us be satisfied with good blooms only occasionally. Yet, he has helped set the bounds for us all.
In Washington, Philadelphia, mild parts of New Jersey, on Long Island, in the mid-South and Southwest, more and more gardeners are growing camellias. At the same time, in the Southeast, plantings are spreading west into the mountains.
When I came to Biltmore Estate, Asheville, N. C., in 1956, I looked for a few camellias growing outdoors. From every side came the emphatic assertion that they weren’t hardy here. As time went on, however, the minority report started to come in. Dr. Jim Raper, a good neighbor, pointed to his healthy young plants.
Unfortunately, they haven’t gone through a bad winter yet, so he doesn’t know which varieties will do best for him. Dr. Nicholas Fortesque, Hendersonville, N. C., has a number of small and medium-size plants of varieties of both Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. However, most striking is two large plants of ‘Cleopatra,’ a sasanqua variety, which flank his front door.
These are six or seven feet high, wider than tall, and each bears hundreds of flowers each fall. It must be said that Hendersonville is lower in elevation and somewhat milder than Asheville, which has an elevation of about 2,300′ feet.
My assistant, Bill Garren, started growing camellias in Asheville in 1954. He could not obtain a list of hardy varieties at that time, so he planted those he liked and hoped for the best. During the first winter, the plants were given protection; after that, they took what came. Half of his original selections are doing well now.
He finds the hardiest blooms on ‘C. M. Hovey.’ `Gov. Mouton,’ Empress, “Lady Clare’ and ‘Prof. C. S. Sargent’ do well. The buds of ‘Pink Perfection’ are prone to frost damage, but the plant is kept for its foliage value alone; any blooms are considered a bonus. Varieties that have not done well under his conditions arc `Debutante,’ Alba Plena,’ High Hat,’ Joshua E. Youtz.’
Other reports from this mountainous area are still coming in, indicating that the camellias are more widely planted than generally.
Where does this leave the average gardener?
If they want only the safe, no gamble plants, this is no area to explore, at least for the moment. Too much experimenting remains to be done before we know just what is the true range of camellias. But, on the other hand, there is a challenge for those of us who don’t mind some risk in return for new knowledge and skill. Failures may be many at first, but each success will add not only satisfaction but also valuable information.
If you would like some idea of the odds you would be facing, let me put it this way. If your usual low winter temperature is about 5°, you can expect to grow a number of varieties. If you can expect about zero every winter, start with the hardiest known kinds and try others rather gingerly. If your usual low is -5°, you are a real gambler, but there will probably be some varieties that will come through. How great odds you are willing to face is up to you.
Let’s draw up a balance sheet of known facts and things we must still discover.
Young plants are less hardy than older ones. Also, newly set plants arc more subject to winter damage than those which are well established.
Therefore, it is evident that we should not attempt fall planting in cases where there is any doubt. Instead, plant in the spring so that the bushes may be well established before really cold weather sets in. Also, start with as large plants as you can manage.
You will have to give some winter protection for a year or two to allow the plants time to dig their roots in deep.
A burlap screen around three sides of the plant, leaving the top and the most protected side open, is a big help. This screen should extend somewhat above the top of the plant for maximum protection. However, it must be admitted that this leaves considerable to be desired from a scenic point of view. Somewhat better is a barrier of reed fencing tied to stakes set back from the plant and not forming a completely closed circle. The opening should be on the side with the greatest natural protection. A box of lath slats will help, but this too is not attractive.
Spraying the whole plant with an anti-transpirant (such as Wilt-Pruf) promises to be helpful. This does not detract from the appearance of the plant. On the other hand, it is not known exactly how much protection is afforded by the treatment. Here is another area where experiments are necessary to give us the information we need.
In England and on the Continent, it is common to grow doubtfully hardy shrubs espaliered against a south-facing wall. That is a possibility here, as some camellias make fine espaliers. Certainly, it is an attractive way of giving added protection.
For some time, it has been thought that Camellia japonica varieties were less hardy than those of the lesser-known but lovely C. sasanqua. When considering the hardiest known varieties of both groups, the reverse has been found to be true. Dr. Francis de Vos, of the National Arboretum, Washington, D. C., noted in the nasty winter of 1957-58 that in windy weather with temperatures of 4° to 12° extending for a couple of days, foliage and twig damage in C. sawn-qua varieties was moderate to severe. Nearby plants of C. japonica varieties received only slight damage. He has also determined that sasanqua buds exposed to temperatures of less than 18° either did not open or gave poor bloom. In contrast, he noted that most C. japonica varieties in bud will withstand temperatures of ten degrees without serious impairment of flowers.
This is not as bad as it sounds with regard to the sasanqua varieties, for usually, we depend on these for bloom in the autumn before such low temperatures are experienced. Here at Biltmore, we expect temperatures of approximately five degrees each winter. (In February of 1958, we had -6°!) Yet we have a fairly good bloom on even small plants, tinder average conditions, before temperatures of less than 18° are registered.
Some believe that the northern limit for sasanqua is near Washington, D. C in the East. That this is not a hard and fast limitation, however, is shown by the experience of Richard Thomson, Wynnewood, Pa. He showed me several nice plants blooming in his garden in mid-December 1959. Most of these he has had for a number of years. He, too, believes that the blooms that open before really bad weather (usually sometime in December) are enough to justify growing the plants. And, he adds, “Several varieties would be worth growing as foliage plants if they never bloomed! It must be admitted, though, that this is more true of varieties of C. japonica.”
Some adventurous growers are trying a few camellias outdoors near Cleveland, Ohio, but I have not heard how they are doing. Several recent plantings on Long Island seem to have a better chance of success. Without a doubt, some gardeners north of Memphis are trying camellias, but I haven’t been able to get any exact information on their plantings or results.
Now let us look at the question of exposure. There are several aspects to be considered. In every case, plants should be sheltered from sweeping winds. As for sunlight, there is more latitude, but certainly, exposure to early morning sunlight will give trouble in severe weather. Where risks are greatest, a northern exposure to plenty of light and little sunlight will be safe. Between these two extremes, you will have to try varying amounts of high shade to see what is the safe minimum under your own conditions.
It must be realized that plants grown in fairly heavy shade will not give the compact growth, which is the mark of plants grown in the lightest shade or full sun. Until you know your conditions, err on the side of more, rather than less, shade.
At the same time, you must consider that flower bud formation requires rather high temperatures. Too cool a situation then will cancel all your efforts. Conversely, cool temperatures are needed for blooming.
There is another area of culture which has a decided bearing on the subject of hardiness. Even the hardiest varieties will be injured or even killed if they are not properly hardened off when cold weather arrives. Fertilization, especially with high nitrogen-bearing mixes, should be discontinued early, usually July first at the latest. Mulches should be pulled back from around the plant in September unless the season is extremely dry. This will tend to run the plant on the dry side. It will also allow the ground warmth to seep up around the plants and keep the air somewhat warmer.
Should warm, wet weather prevail in September and October, the plants will not harden normally. Under such conditions, the only action to take is to apply a 0-10-10 or 0-12-12 fertilizer to help harden the tissues. Beyond this, the fate of your plants under such conditions is pretty much in the lap of nature.
With all these factors covered, you are ready to select varieties for trial. Let it be understood that there is no general agreement on just which varieties are best. In any event, your conditions may vary from those of other pioneers in this field. So regard the following as a tentative guide rather than as a blanket endorsement.
The Hardiest Camellias
Two general statements are frequently made about hardiness in camellias. “Varieties with dark-colored flowers are hardier than those with lighter colors, and “fully double flowered varieties are less hardy than the double-flowered or semi-double flowers.” There are exceptions to both of these statements, yet on the whole, they seem to reflect the true situation.
How To Plant Camellias
As for planting directions, they are simple. Remember always that, under adverse climatic conditions, emphasis on the finest soil preparation and planting procedures may make the difference between success and failure!
First, see that the soil is well-drained. This is of primary importance. If there is any doubt on this score, set the plant high so that the surrounding soil will take any excess.
The number of kinds of soil that will grow good camellias are many. Yet, they all have certain characteristics in common. Above all, they must contain a very considerable amount of humus. They should have at least moderate fertility and generally a pH of between 5.0 and 6.0. They should drain well, never be dry and be cool. The last two requirements may be taken care of with proper watering and the use of a deep, fluffy mulch.
The sources of humus are almost legion. Most popular are peat moss, well-decomposed manure, and good compost, which has not been treated with lime.
There are many recommended soil mixtures for planting camellias. Which one you should use will depend to a great extent on the basic soil in your garden. If it is light, you can use one part humus and one part soil. If very light, try four parts humus, four parts soil, and one part heavy loam. A good mix is equal parts humus, soil, and sharp, clean sand for heavy soils. For real clay, reduce the soil by half.
There are those who add a complete fertilizer to the prepared mix, generally one to two pounds of azalea-camellia special or 5-10-10 per wheelbarrow load. My personal preference is to dig in some superphosphate in the bottom of the hole. A four- or five-inch potful is enough. Then add a four-inch potful of cottonseed meal per bushel of planting mix.
As for planting, make the hole big! Luckily, the plant should be in place 20 years or more, which is the only time you will have complete control of the soil.
If the ball on the plant is one foot high and one foot wide, make the hole three feet across and two feet deep. Again, there are benefits in not taking out the hub of the hole. Rather, leave this as a column of undisturbed soil in the middle of the hole. Your hole, then, will look like a doughnut in reverse.
Next, measure the depth of the ball of the plant and subtract two inches. Cut this amount from the top of the central column. Place the plant on this and fill it in with the prepared soil mix. Water well and let the soil settle. Now add more soil mix to bring the whole up to the new level, two inches higher than the surrounding soil. In time this whole area will settle to meet the surrounding soil level.
Finally, add a good mulch. Pine needles three inches deep will do well. Peat moss, partially composted oak leaves, or similar materials may also be used.
It is generally beneficial to shade the plant during the period of establishment. Never let the new planting dry out.
Check the plant periodically for the first year to see if it has settled too much. If the feeder roots are covered with more than an inch of soil, raise the whole plant.
There you have it. Suppose you have something of the gambler in your make up and are willing to work a bit for something really lovely and special.
In that case, you may enjoy trying camellias even in areas formerly thought too severe for these aristocrats. If your climate isn’t too awfully rough, you may well succeed.
FGN-0261 by Fred Nisbet