For 25 years, Joe Campbell, retired insurance man of Tulsa, Oklahoma, has been growing hardy chrysanthemums.
Known throughout his area as a winner of blue ribbons, Campbell still improved his methods each year.
Summarizing his philosophy of growing mums, he believes a gardener should supervise the work of mother nature and not merely let nature take its course.
Out of his experience, he has other worthwhile ideas to offer would-be chrysanthemum growers.
As with anything else that is grown well, chrysanthemums require thought, attention, and tender loving care.
Much consideration goes into selection.
Campbell recommends buying from mum specialists, from whose catalogs a person can choose any number of colors and types.
Pompons, singles, doubles, and buttons are designated by name.
He has his divisions shipped airmail, and they usually arrive the same day they are shipped, in good condition.
Ideal Time For Chrysanthemum Plant Divisions
Planting starts in spring, around the first of April or May, depending upon the weather.
Though it is possible to plant divisions in the ground immediately if it is ready, he prefers to place them temporarily in small pots, setting them in the shade to avoid wilting.
He waters them, and when they start to grow, they are ready to set out.
Usually, they have good root growth in 2 weeks.
In the pots, they can be held as long as 4 weeks before permanent planting, but delaying any longer may result in plants becoming hard and woody.
Keep Chrysanthemum Varieties Labeled
Campbell has grown many varieties over the years, and he naturally has his favorites.
He advises beginners to order several varieties and keep them labeled to know the names of preferred kinds for planting again.
For instance, the beautiful gold ‘Lee Powell’ will yield many divisions with some roots attached for planting the next season.
A division with only one shoot makes a large plant by fall.
Here are the following division tips:
- Divide an old clump in spring as soon as new shoots are 4” to 6” inches tall.
- Dig the clump, shake off the soil, and merely pull off the single divisions.
- Never leave any of the old stalk attached.
Once a sunny spot in the yard has been selected for mums, it can be used year after year for these flowers.
It is best if the bed is in the sun for at least a half-day.
Learn Soil Analysis
Campbell thinks it is wise to have the soil analyzed to see if it is too acid or too alkaline.
It need not be neutral, slightly acid will do.
If the soil is well prepared, it will hold sufficient moisture, and excess rainwater will runoff.
¼ the volume of soil should consist of coarse peat moss or rotted dairy (not horse) manure.
If the soil is clay or other tight consistency, he advises spading in sand deeply to give better drainage.
Ideal Divisions For Drainage
Next, Campbell installs a 4” inch board around the bed, which is sloped slightly from the center to the edge. This, too, is for drainage.
The divisions he sets are 15” inches apart and slightly below ground level.
As soon as the plants are 10” inches high, Campbell ties them to stakes with loose strings to ensure straight growth.
At this time, he pinches ½” inches from the crown to make the plants branch and yield more blooms.
The new shoots are tied and pinched repeatedly as they grow every 10” inches until about the middle of July.
Then he stops pinching to allow plants time to form buds.
To save time and materials, Campbell treats the pointed ends of his wooden stakes with creosote to discourage termites and make them last.
The stakes should be 4’ to 5’ feet high, for many mums will reach that height if properly grown.
Naturally, dwarf plants do not require such long stakes, but Campbell insists that they be staked at any rate to prevent their falling over and causing crooked stems.
Only cushion mums grown for landscape impact can go unstaked.
Apply Fertilizer During The Growing Season
Unless the soil is very rich, he advises fertilizer applied every 2 or 3 weeks during the growing season.
He uses an inexpensive balanced commercial fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash in about equal proportions.
Here’s Campbell’s method in his words:
“Never put dry fertilizer on dry ground. Water the ground in the evening, and rake the fertilizer in carefully the next morning, and don’t hoe it in, for you might damage plant roots.”
Right Watering For Chrysanthemums
Right watering is most important with mums.
“Watering is not sprinkling,” Campbell informs, “it must be done gently to preserve the plants. Don’t swish the hose back and forth over the flowers . . . lay it on the ground with the volume turned low, or use a fine sprayer.”
As final insurance, Campbell recommends spraying twice with a fungicide in early summer.
Should eating insects appear, arsenate of lead will take care of them.
Early in the fall, he applies a contact spray containing pyrethrum, which kills all insects on contact, including kinds that chew on developing buds and flowers.