Question: We just moved from the east coast, where our Hemerocallis (day lily) always was a color treat in our landscape. Now that we have settled into the mid-west and are ready to start planting, can we include the day lily Hemerocallis as a part of our flower garden?
I’ve always enjoyed different cultivars and some old varieties like Hemerocallis fulva and Hemerocallis “Stella de Oro.” – Kirsten, Kansas City, MO
Answer: Here, in the mid-west, where we have the extremes of temperature, from the subarctic of mid-winter to subtropical of midsummer, a plant must be hardy indeed if it is to thrive. Daylily (Hemerocallis) is one such plant.
Once it becomes established, it needs very little attention. The 1st year after planting, we mulch ours to keep them from alternate freezing and thawing, but after that, their foliage cares for that. There are many kinds of daylilies.
We even grow some species of the evergreen types here – though when the temperatures skid down into the low twenties or thirties below zero, they do occasionally winter kill unless mulched. It is better to select the deciduous varieties in our climate, as they are perfectly winter hardy. These can now be found in all the leading colors.
In grandmother’s day, when Hemerocallis were spoken of, they fell into but two classes the tawny daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) Europa and the Lemon Lily or Flava.
From the seed and different species imported from other countries, the hybridists have evolved practically every shade of the lily flower, from yellow, from the palest of tones to the richest of orange yellows and the lemon shades of the daylily cultivar.
There are all the gradations of yellow between these and the chrome yellows and those touched with shadings of pink. Besides all these, we now have the reds and the rich ruby reds. There are many shades of red-toned varieties, some carrying a brownish cast and others with an orange form. Still, others are so-called purples.
We have such a wide and varied representation among the bi-colors that it is difficult not to name at least a dozen – all good. The bi-colors are the ones that have a combination of two colors – the sepals being yellow and the petals another color – as rose or purple.
In bi-colors, we find the sepals to be a lighter shade of the predominating color of the flower and the petal’s darker hue. Some of our leading hybridists are working on shades of actual purple colors and striving to attain the blue tones – though we are told that the only way we will ever achieve an accurate white is through mutation.
We now have some ashen tones of yellow and are approaching the white – though, as yet, none are white.
Daylilies Need Sunlight
Hemerocallis may be grown in any location where they have sunlight part of the day – we are told that they will grow in any soil that will support plant life – but we find that by adding compost (being sure that it is very thoroughly decomposed – as if it is not it will rob the soil of nitrogen to finish its decomposition, and thus kill the plant) but if well-decomposed compost is added to the soil at the time of planting, the Hemerocallis will respond in almost an unbelievable manner.
We are experimenting with our hybrid seedlings – planting some in composted soil – others in the plain black garden loam. We find that those who have given compost do twice or three times, and those who have grown without it.
When selecting Hemerocallis for a garden, it is well to consider their location, then choose the colors that will harmonize with your other plantings. Should you wish for an accent of yellow, for instance, you may have it over an extended period by selecting varieties of the same shade of yellow and planting the early – the mid-season and the late varieties on one grouping.
Most of the pastel shades of Hemerocallis benefit from a partial shade as this will bring out their coloring much richer. When planted in a light-shifting shade, even such old varieties as Dawn respond and are surprising in their added beauty.
It is well to visit a Hemerocallis grower in your locality and see the Hemerocallis in bloom before selecting yours, as catalog descriptions are frequently not accurate. One reason for this may be that Hemerocallis are noted as being regional performers.
What will do nicely here in Iowa may or may not do equally well in Florida or California – usually, the inverse is often true. Take Calypso – a lovely thing in California – must be babied in Iowa – and then its thin texture makes it less desirable than one with a heavier texture.
Selecting Daylily Plants
When selecting Hemerocallis, it is well to keep in mind the place they are to be planted, and if you wish the effect to be in May, June, or the later season, select varieties accordingly. A well-branched flower scape gives much more bloom over a more extended season than a poorly branched scape. Watch out for thin texture, as it will sunscald badly.
A hemerocallis lily flower with good texture and heavy substance remains beautiful over a much more extended period than its weaker sister, even though they may both be equally lovely when they first open. If you now have some of these – do not throw them on the compost pile without first giving them a trial in a partially shady location.
They may surprise you. Also, do not decide that a Hemerocallis is worthless if it fails to live up to your expectation of it when it first blooms. It takes a Hemerocallis three years in one location before typical blooms can be expected. That means to leave it undisturbed over three years – do not dig it every year or two, as it will not do its best under those circumstances.
Planting Hemerocallis
When planting Hemerocallis, remember that they need air and water around their roots to do their best. During a prolonged period of rain or drought, their outer leaves may begin to show yellow at their tips, this will gradually follow the leaf crown to the base, and the other leaves will also show the same symptoms until the whole plant becomes yellow and, go into a midsummer dormancy.
Unless something is working around the roots, it will eventually snap out of it without more than the loss of that year’s flowers – though if it is caused by rain and the season lasts over an extended period, the roots may rot in the ground. We have had both happen.
After that experience, we have added enough soil to the flower beds – or planting – to permit drainage when a heavy rain comes. This helps the condition a lot, though it is not a panacea for all its ills, as moles may cut through the roots of new-planted Hemerocallis, or mice may be the fellows who enjoy eating the seeds.
We have found the roots cut off in several instances, sometimes causing the death of that particular plant. This condition is especially prevalent in the spring of the year.
When we notice that something like that has occurred at that season, we dig the plant and, if at all possible, salvage the remains. Many plants have thus been saved that would have perished otherwise.
2958 by NA