How To Propagate Lilies An Expert Horticulturist Shares

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Lillies are easily a close competitor of guinea pigs as regards the rapidity with which they may be propagated.

Practically all species and varieties normally increase themselves by splitting the mother bulb or by forming small bulblets on the underground portion of the flower stem. 

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A few, such as Lillian tigrinum, Myriophyllum, sargentiae, and bulbiferum, bear little bulbils at the base of each leaf where it is attached to the stem.

This type of propagation is called asexual because sex cells (pollen grains and egg cells) do not enter the process.

Most lily species may also be grown from seed, and while some produce fairly uniform seedlings, others are hybrid for many characteristics, and their seedlings are variable.

Seed propagation of lilies is called sexual because here, the sex cells (pollen grains and egg cells) do enter into the process.

Asexual Propagation of Lilies

When an old, well-established lily is to be propagated by removal of bulb divisions, it is best done just after the plant has finished flowering or before the leaves start turning yellow. 

It is not possible with all lilies to delay the division of the old bulb until the plant has fully matured, and indeed it is not a simple matter to determine when a lily plant has reached this stage in its annual growth cycle.

Since blooming is a definite indication that a certain stage in the life cycle has been reached, it is probably the best character we have for determining maturity.

Some species flower very late in the season, and the bulbs must ripen rapidly when grown in a climate subject to early, severe winters. 

From the writer’s experiences, it appears that some lilies may be propagated by separating the divisions of the old bulb just as soon as the last flower withers on the plant. Further experience may show that all lilies will respond in the same way.

When bulb divisions are to be taken from a well-established and thriving lily plant. It is advisable to take every precaution to disturb the old bulb as little as possible.

This may be done by carefully excavating the soil around the bulb and removing the new divisions as gently as possible. 

This is best done by using a sharp knife, making clean cuts, and then dusting the wounds with a fungicide.

Sometimes the new divisions are completely separated from the old bulb, and cutting or breaking is unnecessary. 

The soil should be replaced with the old bulb as soon as possible. When handled this way, the established basal roots are not injured, and the plant usually suffers a little shock.

Stem Bulblets Propagation

Propagation by stem bulblets has several advantages over the above method in that it may be accomplished without disturbing the old bulb. As a rule, small bulblets establish themselves more rapidly than larger old bulbs. 

The stem bulblets are formed at the nodes of that area of the underground stem. Frequently some are formed almost at the soil surface, and these may be scalded by exposure to sunlight. A little soil around the stem will give such bulblets ample protection.

Stem bulblets should be removed as soon as they are easily detached from the stem. This is usually late in the season, and the bulblets should be planted in rows at once, so their roots do not dry out. 

The planting depth varies according to size, with very small bulblets covering about 1 1/2″ to 2″ inches and large ones as much as 4″ inches.

They may be grown in rows for a few years until they reach flowering size, when they may be planted in the garden. 

During prolonged droughts, bulblets should be watered every week or so, and in extremely cold climates, it is advisable to protect them with a mulch of straw, pine needles, or other suitable material.

Formation Of Aerial Bulbils

The formation of aerial bulbils in leaf axils is normal for L. tigrinum, L. sargentiae, L. Myriophyllum, and L. bulbiferum. Several lily hybrids possess this valuable characteristic. 

Some gardeners have reported an increase in bulbils, both in number and size, on plants that had all their flower buds removed. The writer has obtained larger bulbils due to removing about half of those that started to form.

Bulbils should be harvested just as soon as they separate easily from the parent plant. If the season is late, they may be harvested even though they are firmly attached.

They are handled exactly like stem bulblets, except that the planting depth is about one inch. 

Bulbils usually germinate and produce leaf growth when planted in early fall, and the first heavy frost kills this. At this time, adding an inch of soil is advisable, and in very cold areas, a mulch is advisable.

Method of Propagating

The most efficient and rapid method of propagating all lilies that do not form bulbs is by scaling the old bulb.

A lily bulb is a greatly compressed stem with its leaves (scales) all attached at the base, overlapping one another like shingles and protecting the growing point of the bulb from which next year’s flowering stem will arise. 

Each scale is a modified leaf whose attachment point to the bulb is comparable to the axil of an aerial leaf on the stem.

When the scales are broken from the bulb’s base, each one forms one to several bulblets within a few weeks. 

When large solid bulbs are used, the best results are obtained in lily scaling. The larger the scales, the more numerous and vigorous the bulblets.

Scale Plantings Of Lilies

The best time to scale lilies is not known for many species. As a rule, better results are obtained if the operation is done as soon as possible after the plant has bloomed.

At this time, the leaves are usually still green, and the plant is growing vigorously. 

The bulb may not be as large as it would be a little later, but other factors outweigh this loss in size. Most lilies, for instance, form scale bulblets more rapidly and profusely when the temperature is high, from 85° to 95° degrees Fahrenheit.

If late-blooming lilies are to be scaled, the temperatures are often too low for the best results.

The scales should be dusted with a fungicide to protect them from rots and planted about one inch deep in light friable soil. Bulblet and root formation occur rather rapidly, and some leaf growth occurs above ground in the Fall. 

Heavy frosts kill this growth, and about inches of soil is added at this time.

A mulch of straw or other suitable material is advisable both for protection and to keep the soil friable by protecting it from heavy, beating rains. If the soil is known to be fertile, no additional fertility needs to be added. 

If the soil is poor, superphosphate may be applied before planting at three to four pounds per 100 square feet.

In the spring, after the last frost, the small plants may be given side dressings of a 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer if the leaves are light green and the plants show little growth. 

This fertilizer should be applied at a rate of about two pounds per 100 square feet and repeated in about 6 weeks. After each application, the fertilizer should be scratched into the soil and wet down.

Lily scales must not be allowed to dry out while the bulblets are forming.

When scales are planted outdoors, the soil should be sprinkled often enough to keep them moist, and with shallow planting, the top two or three inches of soil should be kept moist.

Scale plantings of most lily species are better left undisturbed for at least two years. Some of the rapidly growing sorts, such as L. longiflorum, and L. formosanum, may be dug the first year, and the bulbs and bulblets planted out into the garden. 

If the scales were spaced 3″ to 4″ inches in a row, most species, including auralum, speciosum, candidum, and testaceum, are best left in place for two years. 

Harvesting of scale plantings and replanting should be done at least 3 or 4 weeks before hard frosts so that the small bulbs will have ample time to become rooted and well-established in their new quarters before Winter sets in.

Sexual Propagation Of Lilies

The production of lilies from seed is the only method now known by which one may be sure of starting with healthy bulbs.

This method is also a much cheaper way to accumulate many species. In addition, since practically all lilies are hybrid for some characters, this increase method is fairly certain to yield some bulbs far superior to the average run of the species or variety from which they originated. 

Seedling lily bulbs produced in one’s garden are much easier to handle at planting time. It is possible to dig and replant at once, thus preserving much of the root system and holding the desiccation of the bulb to a minimum. 

As a rule, small bulbs reestablish themselves more rapidly than large ones, and the gardener who keeps lily seedlings coming on always has on hand excellent small bulbs for planting stock.

Unfortunately, obtaining a wide variety of lily seeds has been difficult. This situation is changing, however, and most dealers now list a fairly large number.

Lily seeds may be divided into two types as regards the time required for germination. 

The species comprising one group germinate from 3 to 5 weeks, producing flowering-sized bulbs from 12 to 24 months.

The second type starts germination underground during the first summer and produces growth above ground the next spring. 

As a rule, these slow-germinating species do not flower in less than 4 to 5 years.

Spring Planting Lily Seeds

Lily seeds should be planted in very friable soil that resists baking. It should be planted about 3/4″ to 1″ inch deep and spaced about 1/2″ inch in rows 6″ to 8″ inches apart.

Spring planting is probably best and should be done as soon as the soil can be worked. 

Most lily seedlings should be left in the seedbed for at least 2 years.

Some few, such as longiflorum, philippiense, formosanum, and regale, will flower during this time, and better plants may be selected for removal to a permanent location. 

The slow-growing species may remain undisturbed for as long as 3 years.

44659 by Dr. S. L. Emsweller